heater box refurb

[dotcentral]

Has anyone done a rebuild to a heater assembly? I have one that is not original to my truck, and has likely sat for years unused. I was thinking it might be good to clean it up, check out the soft parts, paint it, etc. before installing it.

[jor]

There's not much to rebuild unless your core is leaking or the fan isn't working. I took mine apart, cleaned and painted it. I took quite a few photos. Here are several. In one of them, you can see the exploded view drawing of the heater. I think it's here on the site but if you can't find it and want it, PM me and I'll send it over.
jor

[dotcentral]

Thanks for the pictures JOR. After posting this I went out in the garage and tore it down. It is pretty simple. Probably should have bench tested it first. Scrubbed it down, sanded the worst of the surface rust off the metal casings. Going to give the metal parts a couple of coats of rustoleum satin black. I took care to not get water inside the blower motor.

If I was going to check the blower, would it need power going to it or could I use a voltmeter?

Jor, did you paint the fiberglass part, or just scrub it down? Did you drill out the rivets or just leave as is? I don't think I'll mess with the rivets.

What about lubricating the metal rods for the flapper? I figured I'd give it a spray of silicone lubricant, graphite or something similar.

I plan on using this heater for less than a year. So, while I want to do a good job, no need to go all out on it. By next summer I hope to have something like a vintage heat & a/c system. But, the pace I move, it could be several years.

[jor]

If I was going to check the blower, would it need power going to it or could I use a voltmeter?

Jor, did you paint the fiberglass part, or just scrub it down? Did you drill out the rivets or just leave as is? I don't think I'll mess with the rivets.

What about lubricating the metal rods for the flapper? I figured I'd give it a spray of silicone lubricant, graphite or something similar.

Testing Blower: You can put power to it or just use a ohm meter and test it for continuity.
Fiberglass Part: I just cleaned mine well, did some very light sanding, blew it off, wiped it with some acetone and sprayed some good rattle can paint.
Rivets: I left mine.
Lubrication: I used some while lithium on the flappers. They have a lot of play so it doesn't make much difference.
jor

[dotcentral]

Thanks for the info. I'll check the blower tomorrow. Probably should have done that before painting it. Probably good though.

Does any part of the heater assembly get caulked? Maybe to help seal it up? I saw what looked like dried up caulk inside the box. If so, what type would it get? And where.

Thanks.

[jor]

Does any part of the heater assembly get caulked? Maybe to help seal it up? I saw what looked like dried up caulk inside the box. If so, what type would it get? And where.

I didn't use any. Maybe someone else has done it? Maybe at the motor mounting seal? the only other place is where the green arrow is pointing. On mine there was a hunk of some kind of factory sealant there.
jor

[dotcentral]

Okay, what wires go where? there are two spade connections on the side of the heater assy., on the left side of the box. Also, there is a male connector and a grounding connection coming off the heater motor. Where do these buggers go?

Does the ground go to the firewall or under the dash?

If I remember, the male connector goes to the heater control panel? I am missing the heater control, so trying to rmember that one.

What plugs into the two spade or blade shaped connections on the box itself?

[jor]

What plugs into the two spade or blade shaped connections on the box itself?

Let's see... I think the motor should have two wires. One goes to ground (on one of the heater box sheet metal screws) and the other goes to one of the spade connections. Another wire goes from the other spade connection to the heater control. I've got a schematic around here somewhere...
jor[/quote]

[dotcentral]

I couldn't find any bolts to mount the heater assembly to the firewall. When I was a pull-a-part, I noticed the 73-79 trucks have nuts with a large flaired shoulder, and some caulk-like stuff on the back. I took 4 of them, cleaned them up, shot them with paint. The culk like stuff was cracked and falling out, so I dug out the loose stuff, ran a bead of silicone caulk in the void.

My hope is that it will make the cab just a bit more air tight. Plus the wider head of the nut looks better to me than a nut & washer.

[460 crew]

Good looking pics Jor!!

[Heavenlyfire]

The one thing I did was replace the foam flap covers on the inside of mine. Went to the hobby / craft store and got some thin craft foam. Cut to fit and glued it on.

[dotcentral]

Anyone have pics of the cable routing? Getting close to have this job finished.

Temp control cable goes thru firewall to heater hose in engine bay? How does that one work? Can't quite picture it.

[dotcentral]

Okay, think I got a problem. I am re-attaching a pic of Jor's heater. Notice the blue arrow. My heater assembly is missing this bracket, which will probably make it difficult to hook my cables up and have them work.

The heater came from a friend. I think it came of a 67, not 100% on that. But that might explain why it's missing the bracket? The back side didn't look like anything was missing, so I think this is how it came from the factory. Do I need to go back to the salvage yard and get a different heater assembly? Or is there a way to get this thing to work with what I have?

Maybe I just ought to say screw it, and get that in-dash heat & a/c I'm wanting.

[jor]

That photo and this one (with the yellow circle) are of my 67's heater. My 68 is set up the same way (one with the silver paint) Anyhow, you have to have those brackets to secure the cable housing to the heater box so the cable itself is free to move within the housing and actuate the heater lever controls. I guess you could rig something up. Let us know what you figure out.
jor

[dotcentral]

I wonder if I got ahold of one of those '67 economy heaters. The type where the controls are not on the dash, but on the box.

Guess it's another trip to the yard.