77 AC - install

[rboeding]

I got my complete AC for a mid 70s truck in today and everthing looks prety good. I have a few questions though.

1) I should replace the dryer?
2) The compressor is a York and I don't know how long it has been off or how much oil is in it. Should I drain out the oil and replace it with the correct volume? What is that volume and what type?
3) The spounge like insulation on the flapper door in the box is failing so what should I replace it with?
4) The black gook (Insulation?) on the expansion valve is somewhat missing so what should I replace it with and where can I get it?
5) Some of the mating gaskets for the ac box are damaged. I guess I can just use plyable gasket seal as a replacement?

I know my truck is too new but someone here might have some info. I am also thinking about recharging the system with HC-12a.

Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly welcomed. What would you do in this situation while the ac is out. The blower box looks new on the part that goes in the engine bay and I think the heater coil is new too. Thanks in advance.

[fordman]

yes replace the dryer. i don't know about oil in compressors
but i would say yes replace it if you can. the foam can be replaced with generic a/c filter material. the black stuff you cut to fit. the black stuff i don't know is it important? put some black pipe wrap foam over it. for gasketing i would use that butyl tape. it works good for mobile home doors and windows as well as roof top a/c on rv's. i don't know anything about freon.

[rboeding]

As a side note, the last I'd heard about it, the automotive, automotive aftermarket, and refrigerant industry (not to mention the federal government) only recognize R12 and R134a refrigerant as being safe and acceptable for automotive use. DuraCool 12a, HC12a, OZ12, OZ12a, and other hydrocarbon refrigerants are extremely flammable and totally illegal to use in an automotive A/C system. These refrigerants are designed for use in commercial refrigeration systems, not transportation environments. Commercial or industrial systems are completely plumbed with hard steel lines, with no rubber hoses to cut through or leak flammable refrigerant into a passenger or engine compartment, are out in the open rather than an enclosed area, and are not susceptible to crashes or accidents (breakage and sparks).

The government, from what I have read specifically off their web sites, has chosen to have no opinion on the use of HC12a in cars. It is listed as not a drop in product because the newest formulation has not been tested yet. I have also done some reading on the Duracool web site and other web sites that don't sell HC12a that R134a actually will ignite at over 300 degrees lower than the HC12a and it burns more explosively and hotter. I have a while till I have to make that discission so I am going to keep reading up on it.

[flyboy2610]

That black insulation stuff is available from an AC supply store, or you might find it at your parts store. I have heard it referred to as 'monkey cr*p'.
This is the refrigerant I plan to use:
http://www.heco.net/freezone.html
I know a guy at work who has an HVAC liscence, so he can get it and put it in for me. You can retain your stock condensor and still have good cooling.

[flyboy2610]

Here is the EPA's list of approved substitutes:
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigera ... mvacs.html

[FORDification]

Wow...they've really come around and approved a lot of previously-frowned-upon products. Good deal! Thanks for the link.