3/4 ton brakes

[DBossMan]

Just noticed that the wheel cylinder is leaking on the right rear of my 72 F250.

I've never done brakes on a 3/4 ton. Looking at the shop manual, it doesn't look too bad. I'm reasonably capable mechanically.

Couple questions:

Is it better to do it myself or have it done?

Any special tools required?

Any tips / tricks that I should be aware of?

Thanks.

[oldschoolrods]

Some require you to remove the axel shaft, I thought my setup was like this but it wasn't, mine had 3 screws holding the drum on, pop those off comes right out. Other than that its pretty straight forward, get yourself a set of brake tools. Make sure to check the star wheel adjuster to see if it's been locked up. The wheel cylinder is held on with 2 3/8 bolts I believe. and I think the fitting for the brake line is 3/8. Your supposed to use a flare nut wrench on those but I never had much luck on these old rusted out fittings. Good luck

oh some people reccomend replacing the springs and clips too, also not a bad idea.

[talisker]

I just put new bearings in my 1972 Dana 60. In my case the brake drum and hub are one piece and you have to pull the axel shaft and then the drum/hub. Even at that it is better to do it your self. To get the hubs off you pull the shafts, bend up the tabs on a locking washer, pull a 2 9/16" lock nut, pull the washer and pull another 2 9/16" nut. The whole thing comes right off then.

[68F250]

Is the master cylinder running low on fluid?

I thought one of my rear wheel cylinders was leaking until I pulled it apart and found out it was the axle seal. Wheel cylinder or axle seal, either one will make a mess of the linings so plan on a brake job. For insurance, replace the axle seals anyway and check out the axle where the seal rides, it has to be perfectly smooth.

Tip: put a pan under the axle before pulling it. Gear lube stinks and takes forever to get off the garage floor (and your hands.)

[Faithful Old Road Dog]

It's just a few extra steps to yank those axles. No big deal. Like 68F250 says, avoid that skunk juice.

[willowbilly3]

I had a grease seal on my 72 that I replaced 3 times and it still leaked. The seal sureface on the spindle looked fine but I finally replaced everything and installed speedysleeves. I haven't had another problem in 100,000 miles. But a word of advice on the speedy sleeve; they come with an installation too that is just a cup and will not work as it can't fit over the spindle. Take your new speedy sleeve to a muffler shop and have them expand a piece of exhaust pipe enough to make an installation tool. Do not attempt to put the sleeve on with any other method or you might ruin it or not get it seated properly, and then you will be doing the job over again.

[bluef250]

In doing a brake job, I was told that once the brake shoes had grease or any lub on them, they should be replaced as they would grab when reassembled. Often times when something is leaking (from a bad grease seals or leaky cylinder) the shoes still have a lot of life left. When at the parts store one time, I notice the brake cleaner and bought a couple cans. Now if anything is oily, I clean the part good with the cleaner (spraying the whole assembly and using a paper towel to catch debris), properly lub, then assemble. I have reused shoes and never had a problem of any sort. Actually, the brake cleaner has found a number of uses for cleaning parts. I try to avoid any contact with skin as it is not real good. I also encourage the residue to evaporate with clean compressed air.

[willowbilly3]

You can clean and reuse good shoes if it hasn't been leaking too long.
Also remember on the 3/4 ton shoes to keep the spring anchor pins as they don't always come with those. You have to drive them out with a punch. The first time I did a set I took my old ones in to avoid doing the core and return thing only to have to turn around and drive 35 miles back to get my anchor pins in a borrowed car.