starter solenoid issue? no electrical
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starter solenoid issue? no electrical
I've got a continuing project - 69F100 w/newly rebuilt 360 that is like the jelly of the month. most recent issue - no electrical (lights, brakes, won't turn over, etc). has been running fine with no issues. if the starter solenoid goes out, will i likely lose all electrical?
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No if the solenoid dies the truck will still have everything except starting. The truck power usually comes from the battery side of the solenoid.
Check battery voltage and then chassis to battery hot and you should be within .1VDC as when you measured the battery's + to -. A bad chassis to battery or block to battery ground will make the whole truck sick including no starting and no other electrics.
Trucks as old as ours have a lot of gremlins that for me are fun to fix but they can be trying. Radio Shack has a digital meter for $20 and that would save you days of quessing.
Check battery voltage and then chassis to battery hot and you should be within .1VDC as when you measured the battery's + to -. A bad chassis to battery or block to battery ground will make the whole truck sick including no starting and no other electrics.
Trucks as old as ours have a lot of gremlins that for me are fun to fix but they can be trying. Radio Shack has a digital meter for $20 and that would save you days of quessing.
- 72hiboy4x4
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I just got done replacing the starter solenoid on my '88 due to a number of problems.
The connections on mine were bad enough that it caused a no-start at times, and sometimes it just plain didn't turn over.
In my case all the electrical for the interior was hooked to the battery side of the solenoid, and that caused all the problems.
A little re-wiring and a new solenoid, and looks like that solved all the problems.
The connections on mine were bad enough that it caused a no-start at times, and sometimes it just plain didn't turn over.
In my case all the electrical for the interior was hooked to the battery side of the solenoid, and that caused all the problems.
A little re-wiring and a new solenoid, and looks like that solved all the problems.
In life many men take the path of righteousness, some take the path many others follow (G.M. owners, for example), some take a more arduous path, some a simpler path. I, sir, took the PSYCO-PATH!!
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- rjewkes
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anybody ever think of moving the wires going to the cab from the battery side to an insulator strip and then wiring up to the selenoid? Would this be Redundant?
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
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fuelly.com
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
- 72hiboy4x4
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You would have to make sure the cable from the soleniod to the insulated strip was large enough to handle the amp draw. Very do-able tho. I am sure the loud stereo guys do that all the time.
I moved a few of my wires to the battery post, to reduce a little of the clutter and draw directly off the positive battery stud.
I moved a few of my wires to the battery post, to reduce a little of the clutter and draw directly off the positive battery stud.
In life many men take the path of righteousness, some take the path many others follow (G.M. owners, for example), some take a more arduous path, some a simpler path. I, sir, took the PSYCO-PATH!!
I took all the wires that bundle power and ammeter in on an insulated terminal. Well I moved all my points to a strip and run a battery cable directly to the solenoid and all else to the terminal along with a Battery + 6 gauge wire to the terminal. 6 gauge will handle 65Amps if it is a rubber coated wire.rjewkes wrote:anybody ever think of moving the wires going to the cab from the battery side to an insulator strip and then wiring up to the selenoid? Would this be Redundant?
I use 4 guage for engine ground to battery and 4 gauge to the solenoid and 4 from the solenoid to starter.
- splavin90
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re: starter solenoid issue? no electrical
did you check your ground?
69 F100 81' 302 / 73' fmx
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- adrianspeeder
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Looks like you need to check out the three main battery cables and I suspect you will need to take a trip to a parts store for some new ones. Battery could be dead too.
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'02 F-250 Vin Diesel 7.3L PSD 4R100 4x4 XLT, Crew Cab,
'97 F-150 Dad’s last truck 4.6L M5OD 4x4 XLT, EX Cab,
'79 F-150 Homebrew Dually 351M C6 4x2 Lariat, Reg Cab,
'71 F-100 Bump 302 4x2 3/tree Stepside Custom, Reg Cab,
'66 F-250 Slick 352FE 4x2 3/tree Custom Cab, Reg Cab,
Broncos: '94 Grandpa’s mint daily driver XLT 302 E4OD,
'92 Momma’s daily driver XLT 302 M5OD, '88 OJ XLT 351 C6, '84 Mint! Lariat 351HO C6,
USAF TSgt C-17 Aircraft Maintenance Flying Crew Chief & Flightline Avionics Craftsman
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re: starter solenoid issue? no electrical
i was having the same problem, so i jumped it and it started turning over without the keys in at all. i replaced the solenoid but it still has the same problem. i am just going to get a painless wiring harness and start over.
spencer
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