factory air

[tynall44]

i got a guy gonna give me a under dash unit its been sitting a llllllllloooooonnnngggg time how hard is it to refurbish those units

[xxxtina63]

Well, I don't know much, but if it's still in the vehicle with all hoses connected, that's the best way to go. When the unit is removed and lines disconnected is where problems arise, mostly due to internal damage caused by moisture and rust. I recall reading somewhere here that Vintage Air makes a very nice unit for use in bumps.

[Big D's 69]

Vintage Air doesn't make a direct bolt in kit, but www.classicautoair.com does make one directly for our trucks.

[Fake Name]

Well, they certainly claim to. But that was not completely my experience. Yes, it was probably better than rebuilding the factory unit, but it's not a simple as they claim. Further, one of the motivating factors behind my decision to go with their product was that they claimed it used factory dashboard controls. While essentially true, they did not work correctly with my factory AC controls, and the indicators are not correct for their unit, that is, def, is not necessarily defrost, etc.

fn

[Big D's 69]

Unless it has come out in the last month or so Vintage Air does not offer a kit especially for out trucks. They use one of the street rod kits or universal kits. I haven't looked into more than just that when I emailed them, but I will go with Vintage Air for sure on mine with the electric controllers. Don't want any cables.

[Fake Name]

well, that was my first impulse as well, and I ordered a kit that was strongly similar to the vintage unit. what a big'ol mess'o wire and actuators that was. LOVED the cool billet control panel too, but it would have required hacking up the dash. And all those wires/actuators looks overly complicated- like a Wiley Coyote plan to fail at trapping the road runner. I bailed on that kit (it had other issues as well) and returned it. Overall, I think the classic air unit was a good value, but it's just not as easy as it's made to sound. The directions are as clear as mud, for example. Maybe they should just call them suggestions or something. I did have to use a cutting torch on their main mounting bracket. In all fairness, their tech support was reasonably kind and helpful.

fn

[Big D's 69]

well, that was my first impulse as well, and I ordered a kit that was strongly similar to the vintage unit. what a big'ol mess'o wire and actuators that was. LOVED the cool billet control panel too, but it would have required hacking up the dash. And all those wires/actuators looks overly complicated- like a Wiley Coyote plan to fail at trapping the road runner. I bailed on that kit (it had other issues as well) and returned it. Overall, I think the classic air unit was a good value, but it's just not as easy as it's made to sound. The directions are as clear as mud, for example. Maybe they should just call them suggestions or something. I did have to use a cutting torch on their main mounting bracket. In all fairness, their tech support was reasonably kind and helpful.

fn

Yeah I don't mind cutting the dash since I will be welding up most of it anyways. I was wondering how the install was on teh Classic Units. I am thinking of selling and installing them when I get my business going. That is good to know that there cust service is pretty good though. That helps things a lot. Post some pics when you get a chance of your setup.

[CA180]

Not to hijack... But i think everyone is getting off the subject.

I dont think refurbing it would be that hard. I cleaned mine up my HVAC on my 81 c10. Wasnt hard at all. The under dash unit should be easier because it stays inside the vehicle.

I would figure that as long as you have the housing, replacing the actual a/c components shouldnt be too bad.

[Nausea]

As noted earlier... water is an enemy. Be sure to generously tape off ALL the openings when you remove the components. After installation, you'll need to run a deep vacuum on the whole system with a vacuum pump - should hold about 30" of vacuum for at least 40 mins (keep the pump running that long), if not, theres a leak someplace. That length of vacuum is needed to make sure any moisture in the system boils off - if not, ice will form IN the evaporator's metering valve/hole (NOT good!).
Keep in mind that when disconnecting/transporting/storing the unit, it is fairly likely that some of the oil will be lost. There is a special hand pump made for HVAC for putting oil back into the system even after it is charged with refrigerant. Under ideal conditions, a small amount (mist) of oil circulates with the refrigerant so there is always some coming back into the compressor.

And it is going to cost to put refrigerant back in. Most auto a/cs used R-12 all the way into the 90's until the EPA decided to start phasing it out (in other words, Dupont's R12 patent ran out). R-134 is the 'replacement' but is acutally a blend of 3 gasses that behave similarly. Only big problem w/R134 is that you'll have to replace the oil/lubricant for a compatible lube (synthetic) since it will breakdown/destroy the natural oils normally found in R12 systems.
R134 is running somewhere around $10/lb these days... don't know about R12 anymore but it was getting expensive 10 years ago when I did a/c work. On the bright side, the whole system probably doesn't hold more than 4 or 5 lbs of gas.

Good luck!

[CA180]

R12 runs about $30-$50 a pound here at the dealership i work at. And the biggest issue with R12 is its "effects" on the environment. Anyhow... You should be able to pickup a conversion kit for R134. When i converted my c10, i also replaced my receiver/dryer for one that was compatible for 134. If you dont, you run the risk of a poorely operating system. And you probably want to take it to a trained shop for the vacuum and charging, they will have the machines needed to get the job done properly.

[fordman]

its the compressor that if open for a long time that will have the problems. the "a" coil in the box might have condensation init but that can be sucked out. aluminum doesn't rust it corrords. so that could be a problem for you i don't know.

[CA180]

your right fordman, moisture in the compressor can cause a problem, mainly because its not compressable. That can damage the pistons, and destroy the reed valves.

But, moisture in the dryer is the biggest issue, i think. Moisture will ruin it.

[fordman]

yea i forgot to mention that because it was already mentioned i guess. always change the dryer.

[xxxtina63]

I really thought that there was a good aftermarket set up.

Anyway, this may or may not be fact, but I have heard it on several occasions. Supposedly when doing an R134 conversion, especially on older R12 system, you could have problems with refrigerant leakage with the stock lines. The R134 molecules are smaller than R12 allowing them to leak through a smaller opening, or straight through the walls of the rubber line, even though the same line could hold R12 without leakage. Some companies make reproduction lines for use with R134. Supposed to have an additional, tighter woven wall to prevent leadage.

The only vehicles I've actually seen incorporate these special lines are vintage corvettes. GM, Go figure!

[fordman]

yea they make aftermarket setups for our trucks. i don't know about easier leakage. i haven't heard that.