LMC Truck power brake booster for '67

[fordhombre]

I was wondering if anyone is familiar with how the power brake booster works with the '67 f-100. I have a 67 cab and front end on a 69 frame and rear end I need to replace and brake master cylinder anyways and was thinking of going with the brake power booster. Is it worth the trouble? Does anyone know if this item comes with the master cylinder push rod for it? Or if it installs on the cab without any modification. My pickup has never had a power brake booster. Any ideas or information would be a BIG BIG help! thanks!

[lobuck76]

I bought the master cyl and bbooster already put together for my '71 from o'reilly auto. I'm sure other parts houses would have the same. There is an article that kieth put together in the tech papers that tells wich ones will fit what.

[fordhombre]

well, i guess i should start with the original problem. Upon changing my 69 f100 cab and front end with a 67 cab and front end, the rod that goes from the master-cylinder to the brake pedal was too long. I realized i was still using the 69 master cylinder where the rod is actually connected inside the master cylinder. When i looked at the 67 master cylinder, i found the rod just pushed into it, and would come apart if needed. The 67 rod was even an inch or so shorter, which is what my actual problem is. The 69 master cylinder rod is too long and i have to depress it just to get it to reach the pedal joint, and the 67 master cylinder is too rusted. So i was debating...while i had the master cylinder off, why not upgrade with a brake booster? Does anyone know what's up with the rod length difference? Is that really where my problem is? and is a brake booster worth the money? also.. how does one bleed a master cylinder before putting it back on. Thanks!

[lobuck76]

I like power brakes, so to me it was worth the extra 80 or 90 bucks for the booster. I would suggest buying a core from the salvage. I think the core charge at the partshouse was about thirty bucks. And you'll also need the brackets to bolt it to the firewall.
To answer your second question. To bleed the master cyl. chuck it up in a vise, pour some fluid in it. If you got the plastic plugs with it screw them into the side where the brakelines would go. Push on the plunger in the back with a screwdriver and crack each plug and let the air out.
If you don't have the plugs you can hold your thumb over the holes and do basically the same thing. But keep in mind that break fluid is going to squirt everywhere, don't get it on your truck or anything else that is painted. If you do clean it off with handcleaner pretty quick. Brake fluid is bad news for paint.Ron

[fordhombre]

thanks ron. i don't know if its my ignorance or what, but somehow i always end up with more questions than answers. I assume that the power brake booster does not bolt directly to the firewall, and it does not come with the brackets. i found one at O-Rieley's for $110, which doesn't sound too bad, if it'll work. I've scoured the local wreckin' yards and none had any brake boosters, or brackets. If brackets are required, i might just stick with the plain 'ol master cylinder. Do you know if the new parts might come with the push-rod to connect to the pedal, or where to find a replacement?

also, when bleeding, did you mean crack a little slit in the plug and let the fluid come out through that crack? Once the fluid comes out, is there a hurry to get the lines in? Please forgive my unintellegence, and thank you very very much for helping me put back together this pickup i love so much...

oh, and thanks for the fluid warning!

[FORDification]

The booster does mount directly to the firewall, with brackets. However, the boosters you'll buy at the local auto parts store won't come with the brackets...you'll have to find those at the junkyard, or by posting an ad in the Parts Wanted section of the forums. However, it just so happens that I've got a spare pair of brackets that came with my parts truck, along with the master cylinder and booster. This is a style of master cylinder I haven't seen before, and I believe these to be '67-only parts. The booster is a new remanufactured unit but never installed. I'd sell you these if you're interested...however, I think I'd opt for replacing the master cylinder. Take a look at Fig. 23 and 24 at http://www.fordification.com/my67-p39.htm for some pictures. Let me know if you're interested.

Adding a brake booster is definitely a recommended add-on...not necessary by any means, but it'll sure make day-to-day driving, especially on city streets, much more pleasant.

Bench-bleeding a new or rebuilt master cylinder is a required step to ensure there is no trapped air. The best way is to run two short steel lines from the MC output ports back up into their respective resevoirs, like this:


CLICK HERE TO ENLARGE

The pics show a the process being performed using bench-bleeding kit that you can buy at the auto parts store for $50-$60, but you can easily fab up your own using some old brake lines and fittings. After bleeding the MC, use the plugs that came with your new MC to plug the holes to prevent fluid loss until you get it mounted on the truck.

[fordhombre]

I would very much be interested in the parts you have for sale? My only concern is that I would be purchasing a master cylinder that you think needs replacing. If you would please let me know how much your asking and i'll see what i can do.

As long as you think that these parts will work on a 67, i would love to purchase them. I'm worried of this because it's my original problem, which is a non-67 master cylinder having a rod that's too long to connect to the brake pedal.

As an answer to that problem, i thought about just putting a spacer between the master cylinder and the firewall, but i don't really like that idea. any suggestions?

Thanks for the help with the bench bleeding! I was wondering...does the fluid run fast out of the master cylinder when you take off the bleeding lines and go to attach the real ones? Do i need to make sure I have someone standing with me that will fill the master cylinder as I attach the regular lines in the pickup? Thanks again!

[lobuck76]

The time it takes to hook up the brake lines isn't critical. Fluid will run out of the holes. You will get a little air back in it, but that shouldn't be a problem. If the rest of the brake system is still full of fluid you can bleed it again after you install it. have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it while you crack (loosen) the brake line connections. Tighten the connections before your helper lets off of the brake pedal. Or bleed the whole system.

[fordhombre]

thanks again!
any suggestions about the rod being too long to connect to the brake pedal?

[FORDification]

It's just a slightly different design....your choices are either to go with a '67 booster/MC or a '68-up booster/MC setup, but from what I've heard you can't mix and match the two, because of that longer rod. There have been people who have shortened the pushrod by cutting it a small piece out of it, threading both sides and then reattaching them with a long nut. Others have drilled a different hole for the pushrod in the brake pedal arm, a little lower, to take up a slack. However, I guess I think you'd probably be happier doing it right the first time and just get the pieces you need that match.

[tcb1969]

I've been trying to solve the same problem for months now.

First off - Keith - I don't think that that is a 67 booster setup. That is the exact setup I got from a 68 and tried to mount on my 67 and would not work.

As to the drilling a new hole - I've heard it mentioned several times on the forums - it CAN NOT be done on 67's for several reasons - 1) because there is nowhere to drill a new hole (see pics) and 2) the brake light switch in 67 mounts to the end of the brake pushrod (on the pedal) and mates perfectly with the flat end surface of the pushrod.

I have a feeling that there was no standard setup for 67 - ford was probably using up old parts until they ran out and then used several different mfgs for the rest of the 67 model year - and then picked one or two setups for 68-on.

I was leaning towards the spacer idea but now you have given me a new idea - cut the end off a 67 non-power pushrod and mate it to a cut-off later model pushrod with a tensioner nut (where the threads are in opposite directions on either end) that way the nut can't move because of vibration and you can adjust the pushrod length for an exact pedal height.

[FORDification]

I've been trying to solve the same problem for months now.

First off - Keith - I don't think that that is a 67 booster setup. That is the exact setup I got from a 68 and tried to mount on my 67 and would not work. ...

Uh-oh....we might have a problem then. I just shipped that MC/booster setup to fordhombre for him to use on his '67...and now you're telling me it might not work??

Well, he can try it on his truck and if it won't work, I guess he can ship it back and I'll just give him a regular MC/booster setup I've got, one that I KNOW will fit.

I guess I'm a little confused on what it would fit then. However, if you say you got yours from a '68, then it SHOULD fit, using a '68 brake pedal. Granted, he'll have to switch the brakelight switch to the cylinder type instead of the plunger type, but that's a super-easy job.

[68F250]

Hmmm, I have to agree, that booster is too big to be a '67. The OEM one is a dinky one, I think around 7" diameter?

But why wouldn't it work with a '68 pedal assy?

[fordhombre]

praise be! i have pedals from both a 67 and 69 f100. Surely with both pedals, there's got to be some mixmatch of booster and cylinder that will fit! it's just kinda hard to stop without them brakes, ya know. I have already converted the brake light switch to a 69 cylinder type, just not mounted it yet. I like the idea of being able to adjust the nuts and make the push rod any length you need to meet the pedal, i'm just not sure I understand how it's done. Thanks to you all for shinin' some light on the subject!

[fordloaf]

Let me get this correct... The only easy way to give power brakes to a 67 is to find another 67 with a booster? Nobody makes a new/rebuilt set up?