Bypass or remove the resistor wire?

[xMAJORx]

Here are a couple closeup pics of the resistor wire. Notice how it's specially marked as such.

I wouldn't remove it, just by-pass it, in case you ever decide to reinstall the points.

If I find it how do I bypass it. And doesn't this wire have to connected to the coil?

[68F250]

Sorry don't have any pics but will try to describe how the wire routes.

One end of the resistance wire either comes right out of the ignition switch or is connected to a short wire (Green/Red Stripe) that goes to the ignition switch. The other end of the resistance wire goes under the dash and ends by the glove box. That end of the resistance wire is connected to a Tee of regular wire where one end of the Tee goes thru the firewall to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid, the other end of the Tee goes back towards the driver side and then thru the firewall to the coil.

What that configuration does is allow the starter solenoid to supply the coil with a full +12 volts thru regular wire during starting and then the resistance wire feeds the coil reduced voltage during running.

[xMAJORx]

OKay, will this work? Do I have to do anything else, like something with resistanve wire or should I just let run into the connector, does it have to be routed back to anything?

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[68F250]

That will work but if your resistance wire plugs into a short regular wire before going to the ignition switch, all you have to do is unplug it and run a new wire from the short regular wire directly to the coil. That will give the coil +12 volts all the time. Tape up the unplugged end of the resistance wire so it doesn't short out to anything.

If your resistance wire goes directly to the ignition switch, that's a little trickier but it can be done. Your pic is one way to do it, good job! Oops, edit, edit, that won't do it, sorry.

If your resistance wire goes directly into the ignition switch, you will notice that there is another regular wire that goes into the same spot, both wires are joined together in the socket. Tap power off that other wire and run it directly to the coil.

[lrjetmech]

If I find it how do I bypass it. And doesn't this wire have to connected to the coil?

I didn't bypass mine. You have one wire coming from the solenoid that goes inside to a connector on one side. On the other side, you have two wires coming out, one going to ignition switch (the one with the key) and one goes back out to the coil. What I did was run a new wire into the dash area from the solenoid switch; made a two-way splice with two new wires coming off; ran one of the new wires over to the ignition switch; ran the other new wire out to the coil. I then cut the pink resistor wire off at the back of the ignition switch, spliced the new wire onto that wire and hooked the other new wire up to the coil. If you look at the wiring prints here: http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... rging2.jpg
you will find the factory wiring prints for a '69-would imagine yours is similar. Wire #262 (aft wire on solenoid) goes to connector "D"-wire 16A going to the ignition switch is attached to the same side of the connector, and is the pink resistor wire. The other side of the connector has the wire going out to the coil, water temp sensor, and oil pressure guage. I just cut and capped off the original wires and spliced in new!!!

[xMAJORx]

I'll have to try a by pass with the brown ignition wire. I don't have a plug for the resistance wire, so i'll just cap off the resistance wire and run the new one. We'll see if that works, if I get no spark - it's back to the "wiring board". Thank for all your help guys!

[68F250]

MAJOR, reread my last post, the last two sentences. Sorry for the multiple edits, you guys post too fast.