how is heater box assy retained, 1968?

[Banjo]

I want to briefly remove the heater box assy in my 1968 so I can remove part of the firewall pad and find a leak and fix. I'm not saving the pad, it's torn badly and in chunks. I also want to do this, so I can try to clean out what's in the cowl on pass side. I looked last night, but wasn't sure what all (where) the heater box assy is held down. I'm assuming the 8 or so bolts on pass cowl panel is it? Is there any hidden bracket I'm not noticing? Thanks, in advance, for pictures, but I can't see any on my computer (only red x), so please give me a verbal.
Also, on driver side, I'd like to clean out same cowl area, to make sure old leaves and stuff are removed. It looks simple, with phillips holding a vent open/closed plate, BUT 1 of the screws is up behind the emergency brake frame. How do you remove that? Do you have to disassy emergency brake/park brake assy or ??? Looked simple till I noticed that 1 screw. THANKS for your time to read/advise, Banjo.

[jor]

BUT 1 of the screws is up behind the emergency brake frame. How do you remove that?

You have to remove the Emergency brake lever to get to that last screw. It's a pain but it will give you a chance to get the E-brake mechanism all cleaned up.

I want to briefly remove the heater box assy in my 1968

You should be able to see these photos as they are simply linked to a free photo posting site. Anyhow, the heater box itself is held on by three bolts that pass through the firewall. Just disconnect your heater hoses, remove the three nuts and drop it down in the cab. Of course, the control cables will still be connected so you'll have to slip them off too. The vent on the right side, as you noted, is connected by those eight or so screws. The accordion-like bellows connect to the heater box with some clips which I arrowed in the photos. Good luck.
jor

[Banjo]

JOR, thanks for explanation, no couldn't see those pictures either, don't have home computer only 1 here at work to use now and then and it blocks stuff, but your verbal description let's me know I'm gonna have to quit whimping around it and tackled it. I don't want to let the bottom of the cowl fill up with dirt/leaves and stuff and rust from the inside out. Gotta knuckle down and take stuff apart and clean 'em out if I'm gonna keep the truck, which I'm resigned to do. No need in letting stuff rott just because drain holes are clogged or something, which is what usually happens to old cars. I don't relish monkeying with the park brake, but being lazy isn't gonna solve things either is it? You fella's have a good weekend, Banjo.

[Banjo]

PLUS, dropping the heater box will help me better pinpoint where my leak is coming from next time heavy rain comes. It's not the heater core, because it only leaks when it rains, it's from somewhere just above heater box where cowl forms from curve to flat metal. Thought I'd fixed it once with some thick black goo I use (made for fixing chimney leaks), but apparently have not buttered the exact spot!
Had to reseal the windshield wiper transmissions (where they penetrate the cowl), was leaking from both of those also, got that fixed, only 1 more leak I'm aware of, need to knuckle down and fix it! Can't stand knowing I'm letting something leak and rust just because of lazyness....Banjo

[RTG_RACING]

Man I sure could use one of thoes box mounting plates.

[rjewkes]

your leak is the seals around the wiper arm mounts.