first time king pin swap "HELP"
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- prostreetjim
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first time king pin swap "HELP"
Well, my 70 is in need of replacing the king pins. I've never attemped this project before, I've done some reading and it sounds like it is a pain in the --- to do. Anyone got some pointers on the best way to go about it and tools that will be needed
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
Depends on what style bushing you have, if you have the bronze style you have to take your frontend to the machine shop and have them pressed out. If you have nylon you can do them yourself. Drive the spindle lock bolt out with a center punch on the threaded side, and be sure to have lots of paitence. Other than that its not to bad. Oh if there is little shims that are about the size of a piece of paper don't forget those either, makes a world of difference.
1969 Ford F250 Custom Cab 360/C6 - currently under de-construction
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
You can read the DISC BRAKE TUTORIAL for some good basic info and pictures, taken when I was doing mine.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- prostreetjim
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
Thanks guys, that info will be very helpful, I'll let you know about my experience when completed, I'm working on swaping the interior now, I need to step up my pace , start early winter and still not done
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- Blue Oval Fan
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
I also recommend taking off the axle and sending them
to a machine shop. Much easier overall...The original
bushings are a royal PIA to remove usually...On my 68,
I tried a torch, and got them hot, and had the full weight
of the truck on it, and still wouldn't budge...I finally just
took the axle off, and let them press them off. And being
I recommend taking the axle to the machine shop, might
as well use the superior bronze bushings , instead of nylon.
They can ream the bushings at the shop, and they give the
spindle back to you ready to go. Good point one made about
the spacers....Very important...You want the spindle as tight
and slop free as possible...So use the spacer/s to fill in the
slight gap from the spindle to the end of the axle. Remember
to place the load bearing the right way up!!! Very important...
It should say on the bearing, which way is up...I *think* it's
usually the solid side up, and the open side down, to accept
grease. But double check that.....
I'd do the radius arm bushings also, and also have the axle pivot
bushings replaced at the same time you do the bushings...
They might not be totally shot, but they are probably close....
Makes sense to do it all while it's apart...When I did mine, I did
everything at once. Kingpins, all bushings, all steering parts...
Made it like new driving , overnight...
As far as tools....Huummmm....A big socket set....Two floor jacks
is nice when it comes to reinstalling the axles....I use them as
extra hands, and also you can slowly jack the axle into place...
"pivot bushing end"...BTW....At first glance, removing the axles,
etc, looks like a real pain...But it's not as bad as it looks...
BTW...I noticed a problem with one of the kingpins on my 74...
It's not getting grease, and looks like it hasn't for quite a while...
The kingpin has rust on it...I'm trying to use penetrent to loosen up
the rust, and clear the grease channel in the bushing. And , those
on the 74 are nylon, and have been changed once, years ago...
Luckily, the truck wasn't driven much, and the kingpin and nylon
bushings are still tight...I just need to get the grease flowing again...
I keep spraying it up on the top, "cap off", and I then beat on the
wheel to rock the pin slightly...It's making the rust break loose, and
surface , so maybe I can get it out eventually...I'm trying to avoid
having to pull the pin.... MK
BTW....Did I mention use good jack stands, etc....Ford trucks hurt
like hell when they fall on you.... Always be aware of safety...
to a machine shop. Much easier overall...The original
bushings are a royal PIA to remove usually...On my 68,
I tried a torch, and got them hot, and had the full weight
of the truck on it, and still wouldn't budge...I finally just
took the axle off, and let them press them off. And being
I recommend taking the axle to the machine shop, might
as well use the superior bronze bushings , instead of nylon.
They can ream the bushings at the shop, and they give the
spindle back to you ready to go. Good point one made about
the spacers....Very important...You want the spindle as tight
and slop free as possible...So use the spacer/s to fill in the
slight gap from the spindle to the end of the axle. Remember
to place the load bearing the right way up!!! Very important...
It should say on the bearing, which way is up...I *think* it's
usually the solid side up, and the open side down, to accept
grease. But double check that.....
I'd do the radius arm bushings also, and also have the axle pivot
bushings replaced at the same time you do the bushings...
They might not be totally shot, but they are probably close....
Makes sense to do it all while it's apart...When I did mine, I did
everything at once. Kingpins, all bushings, all steering parts...
Made it like new driving , overnight...
As far as tools....Huummmm....A big socket set....Two floor jacks
is nice when it comes to reinstalling the axles....I use them as
extra hands, and also you can slowly jack the axle into place...
"pivot bushing end"...BTW....At first glance, removing the axles,
etc, looks like a real pain...But it's not as bad as it looks...
BTW...I noticed a problem with one of the kingpins on my 74...
It's not getting grease, and looks like it hasn't for quite a while...
The kingpin has rust on it...I'm trying to use penetrent to loosen up
the rust, and clear the grease channel in the bushing. And , those
on the 74 are nylon, and have been changed once, years ago...
Luckily, the truck wasn't driven much, and the kingpin and nylon
bushings are still tight...I just need to get the grease flowing again...
I keep spraying it up on the top, "cap off", and I then beat on the
wheel to rock the pin slightly...It's making the rust break loose, and
surface , so maybe I can get it out eventually...I'm trying to avoid
having to pull the pin.... MK
BTW....Did I mention use good jack stands, etc....Ford trucks hurt
like hell when they fall on you.... Always be aware of safety...
1968 F-250 / 300 six / T-18
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
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Re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
definatly get the bronze bushings and have them reamed at a shop. I just had mine Done for $140.prostreetjim wrote:Well, my 70 is in need of replacing the king pins. I've never attemped this project before, I've done some reading and it sounds like it is a pain in the --- to do. Anyone got some pointers on the best way to go about it and tools that will be needed
- frisky
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
they seem to either be totally easy or totally a PIA. Mine just came right apart, light taps on the pins. I spent like forever finding a machine shop that could do the honing. In fact I spent weeks looking for one.
So it was like 30 minutes taking both sides apart, and 4 weeks finding and dealing with a machine shop!
IF the king pins are worn, then the other rubber bushings might be too, and this is a good time to take care of them too.
So it was like 30 minutes taking both sides apart, and 4 weeks finding and dealing with a machine shop!
IF the king pins are worn, then the other rubber bushings might be too, and this is a good time to take care of them too.
71 f100sb 390/edelbrock everything, 66 F100sb 240ci, 36 flathead pickup, 30 A roadster, Cat D2, Basset Hound Tucker.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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re: first time king pin swap "HELP"
You can buy pre-reamed bushings and kingpins now...
Maybe not at the auto parts, but I've seen them on the
web...One of the major brands now has a pre-reamed
version, and it's a bronze bushing.. On my 68, they were
tough.....I finally gave up and yanked the axles..
Now on my 74 that has nylon bushings, it's quite possible
I could easily take that apart, and redo with nylon, or the
pre-reamed bushings...Here, I'm lucky that I have a good
auto parts machine shop not far away. They have been in
biz since the dino's roamed the earth it seems like...They
were here when I moved here in 1969, except they were
at a different location farther down the same street. Good
place to have a head done, valve job, etc...They mainly
have old farts behind the counter, which means they know
what they are doing most of the time... They are
about 180 degrees out of phase from say an autozone...
It's like an autoparts from the 60's....Private owned. If they
went out of biz, I could still probably find a shop, being this
is a big town, but I'd probably have to drive a lot farther...
MK
Maybe not at the auto parts, but I've seen them on the
web...One of the major brands now has a pre-reamed
version, and it's a bronze bushing.. On my 68, they were
tough.....I finally gave up and yanked the axles..
Now on my 74 that has nylon bushings, it's quite possible
I could easily take that apart, and redo with nylon, or the
pre-reamed bushings...Here, I'm lucky that I have a good
auto parts machine shop not far away. They have been in
biz since the dino's roamed the earth it seems like...They
were here when I moved here in 1969, except they were
at a different location farther down the same street. Good
place to have a head done, valve job, etc...They mainly
have old farts behind the counter, which means they know
what they are doing most of the time... They are
about 180 degrees out of phase from say an autozone...
It's like an autoparts from the 60's....Private owned. If they
went out of biz, I could still probably find a shop, being this
is a big town, but I'd probably have to drive a lot farther...
MK
1968 F-250 / 300 six / T-18
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip