Master Cylinder/Booster Swap Questions

[fordhombre]

I've run into the same problem attempting to replace my lines. I can get the lines, and i can get one fitting that is the right size, but the problem is i can't get the other fitting of a different size.

I'm replacing the lines from the master cylinder to the differential. I ca get the lines anywhere, but the fittings are the problem. One is a 3/8 at the differential, and 1/2 at the master cylinder, the other line is 7/16 at the differential and 5/8 at the cylinder. NO ONE sells lines with different sized fittings, so i was gonna just cut the end, add the right size fitting, then flare the end and off we go! Problem is, i can't find the right size fittings. All other sized fittings have a bigger hole through the center of them for a bigger brake line.

I can't reuse my old ones either...too rusted.....and stripped

I haven't checked LMC, might they have it?

About the pedal to master cylinder linkage problem....only a 67 master cylinder/rod/pedal will work. I ran into the same problem putting a 69 cylinder in my pickup. The 67 rods are about an inch shorter and detachable. I thought about the idea of spacers, but didn't trust them. Luckily I got a replacement power booster that worked wonderfully! thanks keith!

So...anyone know where to get replacement fittings? I need all the mentioned sizes on my brake line. I think the brake line is 1/4", right? I haven't compared yet, since that's not what i'm waiting to find. The trick is getting different sized fittings, all for the same size line.... any help?

[heep70]

Go to a hydraulics shop (hydraulic hose building shop) or get fitting ends that will adapt them.

[roachrider]

I tried Napa, Schucks(sp?), Baxter, and two little mom&pop shops but no one has or can order the fittings.

My plan was to make some out of a section of drill rod. Just drill a 3/16" hole and then stick it in the mill and put the appropriate bevel on the inside section and cut the top for the wrench before using a die to thread it.

I'm thinking I'm going to run the lines next weekend, so I'll spend this week searching for the fittings and post back here if I have any luck. I'll try Heep70's idea of a hydraulic shop this week too.

[frisky]

My memory is a little rusty (!) but I think the power brake pedal arm has the rod attached to it at a different location that the std. brake pedal arm. I cant remember for sure, I think its closer to the pivot bolt. Its enough to change the range of motion for the rod, alignment to the booster, etc.


When I did the conversion, I was able to get the power brake pedal arm from the yard, which also gave me the larger sized foot pad.

I hear you can measure and drill a new hole if you want.

on the other hand I can be completly wrong on this too.

[roachrider]

I think you're right as that seems to be the problem I had. There wasn't space under the dash to get the drill in so I just spaced the MC away from the firwall 1/4"

[marcveinotte]

This is going to sound dumb..but if the rod is too long, did you consider pulling it, drilling another hole in it and bolting it back up?

I just finished putting a 78-79 style booster on my 67..bolts right up. Had to grind the stoplight switch a tad to make it line up again..but it works fine. Problem I feel it that it now forces the pedal too high. I was looking at drilling another hole in flat arm that comes from the booster about an inch back so that the pedal is closer to the floor. Not sure..if it bugs me enough to pull it all out again and put up the $$$ for the 5/8 drill bit I would need( would have done it today when it was out if I had one)....but I may live with it for now.

Reason I had pulled it back out in the first place was to find out why the booster wouldn't return enough to release the front brakes. ( had to pull the pedal up by hand to make the fronts come off). Think i've solved it.... we shall see tomorrow when i get the new master on and re bleed all of it.

As for the fittings, you have to find someone who carries a line called Weatherhead..they make almost any brass/steel fitting you can think of.
They are extremely hard to find... but they are out there. Likely you would find an adapter to downsize the fitting before you find the corrent line end. A local major outlet here in Winnipeg is Piston Ring Service..they are part of the Auto Value group - not sure if you have Auto Values in your neck of the woods. ( Kinda like Pepboys/Autozone etc etc)..I guess NAPA may have something too..

[roachrider]

The rod on the booster wasn't a flat piece. It was a round stock with a chunk welded on the end that the hole was drilled through. No way to redrill.

I ended up making some new fittings out of drill rod but thanks for the tip. I'm still looking around for fittings for when I redo all the lines. I tried the nearby Autozone but no luck. I'm heading to Seattle for some shopping this weekend and I'm going to take the fittings to a hydraulic shop up there and see what they think.

Regarding Weatherhead, I punched it into google and came up with the below URL. Is the Weatherhead that this place stocks what you're talking about: http://www.smithfast.com/weatherhead1.htm? If so, I'll give them a call and see if they've got it.

[marcveinotte]

Yes that is the line of fittings I was speaking of.

If you get into the catalogue...and it's kinda huge, they should have/be able to get you what you want. That is the line i've always gotten my ends from.. just picked up one this winter when i re plumbed the rear... as the rear hose uses the 7/16 fitting on a 3/16 line.

That's too bad about the brake rod... I am not a big fan or cutting/welding that rod to shorten it ( the danger factor would be too high for me) I guess if you've spaced it out at the firewall and it works...

[roachrider]

Well, I gave them a call and they've got all the fittings I need. Thanks for the tip!

Yeah, the spacing worked, and it put it out far enough that getting to the bolts is MUCH easier now.

Damn...now I can buy the fittings and I just got done making some for the MC... ...Guess I don't have an excuse now not to do the whole system...