Grounding cables

MaxKlinger · Post by **MaxKlinger** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:18 pm

Hey guys,

I was looking at my main batter ground cable today, it looks pretty ratty and I want to replace it. It's not the OEM cable, as it's been draped over the top of the engine and is grounded to the block at a mounting hole, probably for PS pump or AC comp or something else I don't have.

My questions are:

What gauge cable is the correct to use?
Where should the battery be grounded? I'm sure it should be grounded to the block, but shouldn't it be grounded to the frame as well?

Thanks!

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:35 pm

a number 4 cable would be ok and it does hook to the block. there is another cable at the rear of the engine that should be hooked to the firewall. also grounding the body to the frame will help complete the circut and protect the radiator from electrolisis.

Fake Name · Post by **Fake Name** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:28 pm

Nearly as important as the size of the cable is the condition of the connectors. Those two-bolt clamp-on battery connectors have been more trouble than their worth.

Get REAL, bonded battery and ground cables with the REAL soldered terminals. When grounding, use a wire wheel on the contact surfaces before tightening it all up. Some folks will use a dielectric grease on top of that as well, or a quick shot of paint to protect the area.

When I replaced my primary wiring, I used 2/0 (that's two-aught, not #2) throughout with each soldered terminal wrapped with marine-grade heat shrink- the kind with heat-activated adhesive.

fn

fitzwell · Post by **fitzwell** » Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:07 am

Fake Name wrote:Nearly as important as the size of the cable is the condition of the connectors. Those two-bolt clamp-on battery connectors have been more trouble than their worth.

Get REAL, bonded battery and ground cables with the REAL soldered terminals. When grounding, use a wire wheel on the contact surfaces before tightening it all up. Some folks will use a dielectric grease on top of that as well, or a quick shot of paint to protect the area.

When I replaced my primary wiring, I used 2/0 (that's two-aught, not #2) throughout with each soldered terminal wrapped with marine-grade heat shrink- the kind with heat-activated adhesive.

fn

true 'dat.
Remember, the ground is 1/2 of the circuit, act accordingly. At least 2ga from the battery to a good connection on the block. Ground strap, from the block to the frame (i usually run a strap from a bellhousing bolt to the frame) Small straps from the valve covers to the studs on the forewall. If you are going to make your own cables,el fake-o is correct, get quality stuff.I usually use 2 ga on most cables, using Belden cable & terminals. I prefer to crimp, as opposed to solder connections, and seal with some Quality heat shrink tubing.

Tim P. · Post by **Tim P.** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:37 pm

another one to look at is the ground eyelet coming off the voltage regulator harness on the rad support.

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:56 pm

i thought grounding the battery directly to the frame or even from the block to frame would kill the electrical system.

Tim P. · Post by **Tim P.** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:15 pm

no grounding to the postive will! Fords are really dependant on a good ground moreover than the postive.

19674x4 · Post by **19674x4** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:40 pm

i use 0 guage cable for both the positive and ground. always change the eyelets if in dought. The ground mounts right behind the alternator and then a strap from the engine to the frame.

Texas69 · Post by **Texas69** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:12 am

Does anybody have a pic of a stock battery ground cable to engine (360) 1969 F100?

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