wiring for tach and gauges...
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
i just stick it in that terminal on the switch?
coil wire (pink) has power. starter relay brown wire has power. which i believe comes off the pink wire at some point. and i think my largest wire is the black/yellow wire. i will check them all and write down what does/doesnt have power
okay heres the deal...i dont know WHY HOW or WHO did this........but i just went out and everything is working again. dont ask me....noone touched it today, BUT ME. i didnt touch ANYTHING other than checking these last few things...and its working now......what gives?
coil wire (pink) has power. starter relay brown wire has power. which i believe comes off the pink wire at some point. and i think my largest wire is the black/yellow wire. i will check them all and write down what does/doesnt have power
okay heres the deal...i dont know WHY HOW or WHO did this........but i just went out and everything is working again. dont ask me....noone touched it today, BUT ME. i didnt touch ANYTHING other than checking these last few things...and its working now......what gives?
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
heres what i did...the key wasnt turning, so i unplugged the plug to take a look at the wire colors. plugged it back in and honestly...i think i tried things afterwards. reguardless though, after that, i checked battery voltage, coil wire voltage and the brown wire and blue/red wire at the solinoid. thats it. well, if it happens again, I know what to possibly fiddle with. thanks a LOT for helping guys.
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
maybe..juuuust MAYBE im retarded here. I can get the voltage gauge to work without a problem, but when i hook up either of the other two they DONT WORK. hooked up exactly the same as the voltage gauge. heres the kicker though.....when i hook up one of the other two with the voltmeter......none of them work! the bezel they are in, is metal, could this be the problem? I am about to just take them out of the bezzel and see if they work. But, the only difference in the gauges is that the voltmeter has two rubber little o rings at bottom of the bolt, and the others done. they dont make a difference though, as its not like it block current flow or anything..
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the rubber deals are there to insulate the wires from grounding out on the guage and then to the metal bracket. this is a new setup isnt it? then i am unsure of the problems your having. if you had guages in your old cluster then it should just be a tapping into the old wires to make it work. but you have to unplug the old guages from the wire i think. that way its not sending to both guages just the new ones. the metal bracket should be grounded to the dash.
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
yeah, everything is new, and maybe thats the problem, im not just tapping into old wires. im trying to run new. I am going to try and return these and just get the ones I wanted in the first place.
Do you not hook power and ground to the temp gauge? Because it says something about running a ground to the sensor, and the gauge, or something like that? I may just be doing it completely wrong.
Do you not hook power and ground to the temp gauge? Because it says something about running a ground to the sensor, and the gauge, or something like that? I may just be doing it completely wrong.
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
Can I run Mechanical Gauges? I know it's not ideal really, but if I remove the electric sensors, I can use the mechanical gauges, correct? I bought a set that I really like, and hopefully will be able to get installed tomorrow.
My only question is how do the compression fittings work on them because right now, when I tighten down the nuts finger tight it hits a point where I don't think it can go any further without something being the weakest point..
Its got the male fitting end on the gauge, then a little cone shaped deal, and the female end of the fitting. the little cone and female end go on the tubing and then the line goes into the gauge, and supposed to be able to just tighten it all down, but it locks up when the little cone hits the female part of the fitting...is this correct, do I just tighten them more, or what? I always thought that the line goes over the cone and when you tighten it all down it compresses over the cone between that and the female end of the fitting?
My only question is how do the compression fittings work on them because right now, when I tighten down the nuts finger tight it hits a point where I don't think it can go any further without something being the weakest point..
Its got the male fitting end on the gauge, then a little cone shaped deal, and the female end of the fitting. the little cone and female end go on the tubing and then the line goes into the gauge, and supposed to be able to just tighten it all down, but it locks up when the little cone hits the female part of the fitting...is this correct, do I just tighten them more, or what? I always thought that the line goes over the cone and when you tighten it all down it compresses over the cone between that and the female end of the fitting?
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
pictures, pictures, pictures
ignition switch plug
starter relay wires....burnt
voltage regulator
crazy house plug wiring....
where the crazy house wiring goes.....light switch?
under-dash (yes thats where I spliced, don't know if thats safe or not....but i was desperate!
no clue on this one...
no clue on these...
ignition switch plug
starter relay wires....burnt
voltage regulator
crazy house plug wiring....
where the crazy house wiring goes.....light switch?
under-dash (yes thats where I spliced, don't know if thats safe or not....but i was desperate!
no clue on this one...
no clue on these...
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- 100% FORDified!
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
thats the plan. i also think i may be pulling the whole harness and going through it. probably order some wire from Painless or somewhere similar to patch anything that I feel needs it. will leave the colored section at the beginning, and run new wires from there.
Good idea? Seemed logical to me, rather than buy a whole new harness....
Good idea? Seemed logical to me, rather than buy a whole new harness....
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: wiring for tach and gauges...
everything that the diagram shows, is connected. atleast, what I have been able to find....minus maybe a couple things off the voltage regulator. I honestly don't know how safe the truck is with all the crap going on with it. I only have 2 wires to each headlight, which should have 3. Where did they go?......no clue. I could have sworn the lights worked when I bought the truck, but theres no chance of them working right now.
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