Steering wheel connector conversion

[tboneshep]

I replaced a 68 cab and front clip that has a floor mounted stick, with a 70 cab that was an automatic on the column. I want to use the 68 steering wheel, which appears to have a 6 pin electrical connector, the 70 has an 8 pin electrical connector. Can or do I make the conversion? The turn signal connector is also a different electrical flavor. I thought of trimming the insulation casing on the 68 and plug that into the 8 pin, looks like it might fit, but will it start a fire or short everything out. Thanks

[fordman]

it will only start a fire if you dont properly seal the wires back together with atleast some tape. solder and shrink tube is the best fix though.

[Thunderfoot]

Quick question? on the 68 with the 6 pin connector is there a 2 pin connector there also???

[tboneshep]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, there is a small two-pin male connector with the steering wheel column. One wire is solid orange with a blue line, the other is solid green with an Orange line.

[Thunderfoot]

Ok that is what I thought... That 2 pin connector is for the rear Brake / Turn lights...

Look at these two wire diagrams at the turn signal switch wiring...
This shows the 8 pin connector http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... ghts01.jpg
This shows the 6 pin connector http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... odel99.jpg You will see the 2 pin connector there also...

Looks like the wire colors match up, what I would do is go to the parts store and get the tool to remove the wires from the connectors on the 70 then you can put that connector on the 68 and hook it up like normal...
Here is a good thread that talks about removing the connector and shows the tools... http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ector+tool
Make sense???

[tboneshep]

Thanks Thunderfoot, I looked at the two schematics, and in laymens terms, if you looked at them, do the actual colors pin for pin match up? Thanks again.

[Thunderfoot]

Yes pretty much just have to move the 2 up above the other wires on the newer connector... look at this... there are some of the wire colors that change when they go to the connector in the main wire harness...

[tboneshep]

Thanks again, but to clarify for this bone-head, if I follow the pin-out numbers from the 68 (two connectors) and apply this to the same pin-outs and colors as indicated for the 70 connector, it should work, or vice-versa. Compliments to the chef for cutting and pasting these two graphics side-by-side and making it simpler to understand. FordTastic!

[Thunderfoot]

Yep, they are the same function for pin / color... It should work out great...
It was a slow day at work so I did a little graphic work on the side

[FormerMarine1981]

Thanks again, but to clarify for this bone-head, if I follow the pin-out numbers from the 68 (two connectors) and apply this to the same pin-outs and colors as indicated for the 70 connector, it should work, or vice-versa. Compliments to the chef for cutting and pasting these two graphics side-by-side and making it simpler to understand. FordTastic!

Great word. Thanks for the info I may have to do this same thing later.

[tboneshep]

Not sure if I should start a new thread. Turn signal and headlight works on the drivers side. Right side I get nothing. On the 70 connector, there was a yellow-black (283)stripe wire, but the 68 did not have this color, by eliminsation, I connected the 283 to the last wire remaining that didn't match, number 9 on the 68, would that be correct??

Not sure if I compounded the problem, but the drivers side harness going through the firewall is from the 70, the passenger side through the firewall was from the 68. All the connectors color wise matched and plugged right in, not sure if this could be the problem. Also, I was testing this on the 68 headlight assembly because I knew that all the lights worked on it before.

Worse yet is that I cannot start the truck. Everything mechanically worked before, so I have something wrong. No click from the starter, good battery. The previous truck near the starter relay was in total disarray, that is why I used the old 68 passenger side harness. Is it the passenger side harness that is connected to the starter relay the problem or is there another area I should be looking at? I also had to provide the ignition switch assembly as that was missing from the 70 cab. The connector for the 70 would not fit into the 68 ignition barrel, so I cut the 70 connector off and wired it to the 68 ignition connector. The wire colors looked the same. As a test, is there an easy way to bypass the ignition to test the starting or circuit. New thread? Thanks to all. Won't be able to work on this again until tonight.

[rjewkes]

i would take a screw driver across the battery side of the seleniod and the closest tiny stud on its side and see if it cranks.

[FormerMarine1981]

[Thunderfoot]

On the 70 connector, there was a yellow-black (283)stripe wire, but the 68 did not have this color, by elimination, I connected the 283 to the last wire remaining that didn't match, number 9 on the 68, would that be correct??

Yep that's correct, that is the left rear Brake / Turn light...

Turn signal and headlight works on the drivers side. Right side I get nothing.

Worse yet is that I cannot start the truck----Is it the passenger side harness that is connected to the starter relay the problem or is there another area I should be looking at?

Yes, I would look at these wires and the connections as there should be 2 different connectors. One should be a square 4pin connector that 2 of the wires go to the starter solenoid for the starter and the other 2 go to the right head light... Look at this diagram at the small wires from the solenoid (32 and 262) for the starter and (13 and 12) for the headlight...
http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... master.jpg
Looking at this same diagram there is another 4pin connector that has the right Park / Turn wires on it (984 and 2) The bad thing is this connector was configured differently for different applications / options on the truck... I would take a test light and unplug both of these connectors and test each function, then check that the wires on the other side correspond to that...
Make sense? If you don't have a test light I would get one, they are like $5 and you can get them almost anywhere (Wal-Mart to parts stores) They are most handy

As a test, is there an easy way to bypass the ignition to test the starting or circuit

Yes, as the guys said above... if you touch a wire from the positive on the battery to the number (32) post on that same diagram above... It will activate the starter... Make sure the truck is in park / natural...
You can check if your ignition switch will let the motor run, just turn the key to on and either take a test light to the positive wire on the coil and see if it has power, or bump the starter as just said here and see if it starts...

Hope this all helps instead of confuses

[tboneshep]

No start or click when doing the screw driver routine. I have attached a picture of a wire that was near the start relay but not connected, does it go on the positive, right side post? Any more ideas on this matter?[[/img]