Steering wheel connector conversion

[tboneshep]

More news/update

I was wrong, the truck will start suing the method you provided, the bad news now is that it will still start with the ignition off!!! Can I eliminate the wiring harness for the steering wheel (turn signals/headlights are not working right)? I had changed the ignition connector from the 70 to the 68, the wire colors all matched.

[Thunderfoot]

that's not good... Yeah the wires there at the steering column that you changed are only for the turn / brake lights... so there not causing this problem...

Just to be clear... your saying that when you jump the solenoid that the truck starts and runs with the key off, correct?

If so sounds like there is an issue with the wiring with the switch. The wire off the switch that turns the motor on is / should be a Pink wire...

Note: you will want to disconnect the battery until you get this fixed as having power to the coil can burn up the points if the motor is stopped in the right spot...

[tboneshep]

Yes, that is correct, I can start it with the switch OFF or ON with solenoid method. When you say pink wire and switch, I assume that is the ignition switch. If so, does that mean it is connected to the wrong pin? I had cut the connector off of the 70 and used the connector and wiring from the 68, the wire colors appeared to be the same, and so I wired it the same.

Thanks again

[tboneshep]

Raining here now and dark, will have to it again tomorrow, also, does the 67 schematics that are posted here for the ignition system match the 68? Or do you know where there is one?

[fordman]

67 ignition switch is different than any other igntion switch from 68-72. it has a single post terminal on it for the hot. and then several others for the variuos other wires going out from it. or something like that.

[Thunderfoot]

I think that your ignition switch wires might be ok (I'll have to look some more) but there should not be any pin out on the switch that is HOT all the time... only the one HOT wire going to it... I think that your problem is probably in one of the connections on the passenger side that you said you used the 68 harness on... especially where you have the problem with the right headlight and all...
I'm thinking that one of those wires is feeding back to the switch / ignition wire.
You might try unplugging them one at time until it doesn't alow it to start to see if it is one of those...
Did the 68 have full gauges and the 70 have idiot lights? this makes a big difference in the wire harness...
The 69 diagrams should be pretty much the same as 68...

[tboneshep]

The 68 & 70 have the same dashboard guages. The 70 had an Emergency Light pull-type switch, the 68 did not. The 68 had a lighter and manual choke. The 70 had neither the lighter or choke. The 70 had a black toggle knob that was connected and had been spliced to some other type of loose wires, both wires coming off of that switch were red, and I removed that switch. The 68 had a toggle knob that could be switched on or off that controlled the over-head cab lights, the 70 has no overhead cab lights. I did not re-install the lighter as there is no dash hole left. If I provide pictures of side-by-side passenger side wiring, could you make a comparison look-C? The 70 does have some passenger side wiring that does NOT match the 68, and since the previous owners cut ends off of that side, I have no clue what they went to, especially since my harness didn't have this wiring. The Horn works which is connected from the passenger side harness, wipers work, Dome light works. The 68 did not have the door jam warning lights, but the 70 did and they are working. Actually still have major light problems on both sides of the vehicle, but I think the ignition-Open circuit-Non start condition is probably a higher priority.

Could it be a loose ground somewhere, or an OPEN? I can't look now, but I believe there is an open pigtail on driver side headlight harness, or passenger side that did not match up with the 68 headlight grille. I will change the headlight grille to the 70 and make the connections, and then try disengaging the passenger side harness one circuit at a time. Thanks for all your help. It's been wet and gloomy here in Olympia, and not sure when the weather will permit me to press on.

[tboneshep]

Completely disconnected the passenger side harness (3 Main connectors under dash right side , yellow, red, black) one at a time, and all together. ignition will not fire but by jumping the starter relay, will start with ignition ON or OFF!

[fordman]

hook it all back up. the first pic is too small i cant see your writing but the left wire is a fuseable link that has been cut. the other funny looking wire i have never seen on our trucks before. that modular looking plug is something newer i think.

in the second pic if that plug is a three pronged plug only one wire connects into it. i think its a power plug for either the blue or orange wire i cant remember right now. the wire that seems to be cut might be the problem i am unsure. check the wiring diagrams to see where that wire is suppos eto got to and hook it up correctly. also please get a large pic of that modluar looking plug.

[tboneshep]

UPDATE Ok, I got the ignition to work. There was a 4 ping connector near the ignition wires I thought was for the 4 ping connector coming out of the steering wheel on 70 that had the automatic transmission selector on the wheel. Wrong. I looked at my old cab and the connector had like a loopback on it, so I tried it and the ignition now works.

Don't know if this is still a problem, but 3 of us are debating the following. If the key is in the off position, by jumping the starter relay, the truck tries to start but WONT, is this normal? One of the guys says it should not turn the starter, and he's thinking that I still have a live draw on the battery when the ignition is off. It does not start with the key off, but tries to. With the key on, jumping the starter relay (positive to pin 32) it does start which I guess is normal. So, should the relay engage if the key is off? Thanks to all, and now on to the lighting.

[fordman]

no that sounds like normal operation to me. the igntion switch is just a theft deterent feature built in the the truck. if you dont have the key on it wont start. you can jump the relay all day long but without the key on it wont start unless its messed up.

[Thunderfoot]

Glad you found that other wire, it is for the Neutral safety switch on an automatic, the jumper is for manual trans.. it completes the circuit to the solenoid for it to start...

Sorry didn't realize that the truck wasn't staying running when you were jumping the solenoid... That other little wire that is attached to the other small terminal on the solenoid is a wire (262) that goes to the coil to "up" the voltage for starting. It is only activated when the solenoid is being activated, so when your jumping the solenoid cranking it then it will try to start just like you described... Normal....

When your connecting power to that (32) wire it is the same place that the key send the power to activate the solenoid... Normal...

Sounds like your making progress, you'll be a "Sparky" yet.

[FormerMarine1981]

Maybe this will give us a better look. Not that I know what I am looking at.

[FormerMarine1981]

And Again

[rjewkes]

i beleive the black fusable went to the under Hood light don't quote me on that though.

sorry it originaly said under dash.