R13 or R134 What's Colder??????
I just spent $700 for newer A/C parts(Compressor, Clutch, Dryer, and r13 freon and labor. I wasn't too impressed with the coolness coming thru the vent;however I could see frost inside the vents but it just didn't seem too cold. Anyway today is the second day with my "fixed" system and NO cold air today and NO frost inside the vents....I opened the hood and noticed oil on top of the compressor around a fitting that the hose goes into...I guess that means all my r13 escaped from the fitting? My mechanic friend said that he put a compression test on the system and it showed no change from 45lbs....but today I assume that'd be different?? Anyway since I have tried r13 should I now try r134 when I get a new fitting?
Thanks
R13 or R134 What's Colder??????
- 71Ford
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R13 or R134 What's Colder??????
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71 XLT RANGER ->203,000+MILES/NOT REBUILT
99 GMC 4x4 Suburban, 94 Saturn 200k, 03 Chev Venture
71 XLT RANGER ->203,000+MILES/NOT REBUILT
99 GMC 4x4 Suburban, 94 Saturn 200k, 03 Chev Venture
- hardtailjohn
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re: R13 or R134 What's Colder??????
Did they change out the condensor? I've heard that's the main problem going to R134 from R12... If the condensor is an old style one, you just wont get the cool that you should.
Maybe someone with more experience will know the truth..
John H.
Maybe someone with more experience will know the truth..
John H.
Never trust a grinning idiot holding a big hammer!
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- Blue Oval Fan
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re: R13 or R134 What's Colder??????
No. I'd stick with the R-12 "not r-13", if it was set up
to run that. It does sound like you might have a leak.
If you spent 700 bucks for this at a shop, I wouldn't
do anything , except take it back and tell him to fix it...
But of you did the work, I guess it's your problem.
Myself, in that case, I would find the leak, repair it,
and revac, and recharge with the R-12. But....I'd be
double sure I had the leak fixed. There is also the
possibility that you have a metering problem, and are
not getting liquid to the evap coil. In that case, you *might*
see a iced line up to the device, but warm after it, to the
coil. For metering , most cars use either an expansion
valve, or a orifice tube. If it's a tube, it should always
be changed when major work is done...IE: dryer, etc..
The reason I recommend staying with the R-12, even
though it's high $$$$, is it will cool better, with your
existing condensor coil, and run a lower head pressure.
With your existing equipment, R-12 will cool better than
134a. Because it "the system" was designed for r-12.
There is really no real difference between the two if the
system is designed for the particular refrigerant.
What are your pressures running? Remember to gun the gas
a bit when checking...If it's really low, it should dive towards
a near vacuum, "low side" when you goose the gas up...
MK
to run that. It does sound like you might have a leak.
If you spent 700 bucks for this at a shop, I wouldn't
do anything , except take it back and tell him to fix it...
But of you did the work, I guess it's your problem.
Myself, in that case, I would find the leak, repair it,
and revac, and recharge with the R-12. But....I'd be
double sure I had the leak fixed. There is also the
possibility that you have a metering problem, and are
not getting liquid to the evap coil. In that case, you *might*
see a iced line up to the device, but warm after it, to the
coil. For metering , most cars use either an expansion
valve, or a orifice tube. If it's a tube, it should always
be changed when major work is done...IE: dryer, etc..
The reason I recommend staying with the R-12, even
though it's high $$$$, is it will cool better, with your
existing condensor coil, and run a lower head pressure.
With your existing equipment, R-12 will cool better than
134a. Because it "the system" was designed for r-12.
There is really no real difference between the two if the
system is designed for the particular refrigerant.
What are your pressures running? Remember to gun the gas
a bit when checking...If it's really low, it should dive towards
a near vacuum, "low side" when you goose the gas up...
MK
1968 F-250 / 300 six / T-18
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip