Truck keeps dying

[motomattman]

my 68 dies on me after awhile. I thought it was a fuel problem so I cleaned the tank, new fuel lines changed filters and even added a clear filter to make sure it was getting fuel. It still dies on me. My buddy says that the coil is going out. Could he be right? After it dies it starts right back up but is gutless. Then I just wait for awhile and I can drive it home. Just curios if this is a regular problem

[fordman]

tell us more. i'm unsure. what else doe sit do anything? if it starts right back up i wouldnt think it was the coil. when your coil gets hot and kills the engine then it has to cool down before it will start the truck again. when you say it runs bad after it restarts . how bad does it run? is it just doggy or does it sputter?

[heep70]

Vapor lock maybe. You got a section of rubber fuel line between the pump and carb?

If so, how old is it? Rubber line doesn't hold up to todays gas very well. It maybe rotting inside.

[montana_hiboy]

is this problem temperature sensitive? or does it happen every time? do you have to pump the heck out of it upon restart or does it fire right back up? what carb do you have on it?

[Thunderfoot]

With the new fuel line and clear filter you put on, when it dies can you still see fuel in the clear filter? If so I would agree that it could be the coil. The ones I have seen go bad usually make the motor run bad / no power before they die, then after they cool off a bit they will go again...

[motomattman]

I replaced all the hoses on the engine so it should be vapor lock, Today will be changing out the coil, it seems to be the popular answer.

[two-bit]

My vote would be ignition switch.
I have had them go bad when they "warm up", let them sit a while, and then they work fine again.
The reason most people are saying coil, is because you are getting a weak spark. The weak spark is caused by low voltage into the coil. Not being made by the coil.

Check your voltage to the coil. It should be between 6 to 8 volts. Then check the voltage to the coil after it "dies", and you restart it. You will probably find less than 6 volts.

I had the switch in my '69 F-100 do this. Run fine when it was cold, once it warmed up it would cough, choke, no power, very weak, occasional stalling.
I replaced everything, cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, coil, nothing stopped it. Then i started checking voltage.
I spent a lot of money, on parts i didn't need.

Good luck,

Two-bit

[motomattman]

It did it again last night, Drove it around all day used 1/4 of a tank and on the way home it died. So I replaced the coil and it started and died. Then I looked at the clear fuel filter and there was no fuel in it. So at least I know the problem. Half the battle over. Now I have to find were the problem is at.

[basketcase0302]

Do you have a fuel pressure/vacum gage to test fuel pressure?
Pretty inexpensive tool tat you'll use many more times in the future!
Check fuel pressure and look at maybe vapor-lock.


Jeff

[FORDification]

You say you added a new inline fuel filter....but have you checked the filter in the fuel pump canister (if it exists on your truck)? Lots of folks tend to completely ignore that, or are not aware it's there.

[motomattman]

Ok after a weekend of replacing all fuel lines and adding a electric pump I'm pretty sure the problem was the rubber line under the cab. The line had some cracks and looked dry rotted. No problems for three days.