It just died any ideas?

bobs98273 · Post by **bobs98273** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:27 pm

Hey all... pretty new to the older truck stuff. Just bought a 1970 F100 from a fella got it about a mile from home, and you all can guess the rest right LOL. Yup it died. So I got it into a parking lot and Tried restarting it and it acted like it didnt want to. Hooked the wifes SUV up to it and nothing still. When it died the alternator light came on. Does anyone have any ideas at all? Has an aftermarket 302 in it if that helps.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:34 pm

out of fuel to the engine bad sark to the engine bad or hot starter. loose battery / starter wires.

bluef250 · Post by **bluef250** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:40 pm

Check for spark and for fuel. Let us know. Did the truck sit for a while? Certainly need more information. Stop by the Welcome Mat and introduce yourself. Photo's are nice also. The alternator light normally will come on with the key on and engine not running.

seattle67 · Post by **seattle67** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:46 pm

Welcome Bob,
When you say it didnt want to start, are you saying it wouldnt even crank over, or was it cranking over but not starting?

l1k2gadd · Post by **l1k2gadd** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 11:25 pm

Sounds like it could have a clogged fuel filter if it was bucking before it died. Does this have the fuel filter on the fuel pump or on the front of the carburetor?

19674x4 · Post by **19674x4** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:53 am

is it a auto or standard tranny?

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:12 am

Bob,

I'm with Fordman on this one...

Take the battery, (and alternator) to your nearest autozone or discount and have them test them. They do this for free.

Also check for fuel as l1k2gadd said.

Basketcase

bobs98273 · Post by **bobs98273** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:32 pm

Well guys thanks for all the ideas. Heres the kicker. went down stairs last night and thought id see if it would start and guess what. It started right up. And again this morning with no problem. I think maybe its a hot starter. Fuel filter is right on front of the motor right next to the carb. Might need some new battery connections im going to get out there and test some voltage everywhere. Thanks again all.

bobs98273 · Post by **bobs98273** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:33 pm

BTW it was a three on the tree at one time but has since been switched to a four on the floor.

GMan · Post by **GMan** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:02 pm

I am having a similar, but slightly different problem with my 68, 390. It would crank very slowly and sometimes start, sometimes not. Eventually it wouldn't start and would barely crank. Sometimes after sitting for about an hour it would crank just enough to start. That eventually stopped as well. It would start fine if a jump started it. I replaced the battery and it started properly but after a couple days i've noticed that it is starting to crank slower and slower. My guess is that it might be the alternator. I am going to take a look over the next few days. I certainly welcome any other suggestions or other possible causes. Thanks.

G

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:06 pm

it could be a draw on the battery. to check get a test light and pull the neg cable off the battery. put the light between the bat and the cable. if it lights up with everything shut off then you have a draw somewhere. to find the draw pull one fuse out at a time. when the light goes out your draw is on that circut.

bugser · Post by **bugser** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:53 pm

I hate to throw another possibility in here, but the time my beast started that kinda crap, I ended up replacing the dizzy.

GMan · Post by **GMan** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:51 pm

At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, what's a "dizzy"?

l1k2gadd · Post by **l1k2gadd** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:25 pm

The way you check to see if the alternator is working properly is to measure the voltage across both terminals (with clean connections) of the battery with a voltmeter set to dc volts at a voltage range on the meter that is higher than 18 volts. When the truck is running, with the headlights, high beams, air conditioner compressor (if applicable) and heater / air blower motor blowing on the highest setting, you should get a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts or so.

If you have a draw on the battery you can remove one of the battery terminals (negative cable preferably) with the key off and slowly go to put it back on the battery. Other than small things like after-market stereos with memory built into them you shouldn't see any or barely any spark from the battery post to the cable when you put the cable back on. If you see a big spark or arc you have a draw on the battery. If you don't have an any after-market accessories in your truck you really shouldn't see any spark at all.

I had a 1978 E150 Club Wagon Chateau van that would start fine most of the time. At times I would stop at a store to get a soda, or gasoline and the van wouldn't start or it would crank slo-o-o-owly like the battery was weak. On this year van the engine ground was actually made through a terminal that was a built-in part of the negative battery cable. This cable went bad around the connector and I had to buy a new negative battery cable and transfer the connector to the new cable. Check to be sure there is a ground strap that will be bolted to your motor and runs from your truck's motor (in the back) and is also bolted to the firewall. The FEs (big blocks) I have seen in the wrecking yards have this ground strap bolted to one of the bolts that the multi-level throttle assembly bolts to, behind the carburetor, on the intake and goes to the firewall.

l1k2gadd · Post by **l1k2gadd** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:27 pm

Oh yes, to get back to bobs98273, did you get your problem fixed?

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