It just died any ideas?

[l1k2gadd]

Oh yes, to get back to bobs98273, did you get your problem fixed?

[GMan]

I didn't get any indication with the test light, or by checking the negative cable that there was a draw on the battery. With everything electrical turned on, the voltage measured between 12.6 and 13 volts. It's close to the 13.5-14 you mentioned above, but is it low enough to indicate it's the alternator? Thanks.

G

[bugser]

At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, what's a "dizzy"?

Distributor...and no, the question doesn't make you sound like an idiot. If anyone is an idiot, it's me for not being clear.

[l1k2gadd]

No, no, 12.6 volts to 13 volts is too low, even with everything on while the truck is running. I would invest about $10.00 to $15.00 in a voltage regulator first and see if the charging voltage to the battery comes up.

Even rebuilt alternators for these things are inexpensive.

There is a way of bypassing or bridging a couple of connectors across the plug that goes into the voltage regulator, when it is unplugged, to check the voltage output of the alternator when the truck is running, but I don't know which two you cross (or connect together with a loop of wire).

[GMan]

Thanks for the info. I'll give a new regulator a spin. There is a tutorial on this site that has the info on bypassing the regulator. I'll let you know how it goes with the regulator. Thanks for all the help.

http://www.fordification.com/charging.htm

[fordman]

you can take botht he alternator and regulator to the parts store and have them tested to see which one is bad. that way your not just throwing money at it.

[l1k2gadd]

I don't ever think about doing that. I'm not sure why.

My mom's 1989 E150 Club Wagon died two times on her and then got her home a couple of different times before the third time when it died and didn't restart. My Code Scanner pulled a code 1 - 8 (distributor control module failure) as a Primary failure code. I pulled the distributor module and went to the bargain auto parts store for a replacement. The guy there asked me for the old module so he could test it. It tested good and he told me I didn't need one. I said thanks, and get me the new one, oh, and test it again. To his surprise it failed. Good thing I knew what I was doing and I wasn't trusting in the parts clerk to test the part correctly.

I may not be able to work on all aspects of my and my familys' vehicles, I guess I just can't get used to the idea of removing something from a vehicle to go have it tested. It's not old-school, that's probably why.

Without a second vehicle some would have to walk to the parts store to get something tested.

[GMan]

I'm replacing the voltage regulator. When I took it off the device in the picture was attached. It appears to be some type of condenser I guess. I've looked at what literature I have and can't find anything that says what it is> Can someone help? Should I replace IT along with the regulator? Thanks very much.

G

[Thunderfoot]

I believe that is the noise filter... It is to take the static out of the voltage so your radio wont have noise on it... Unless you have had static (engine noise) on your radio it is probably just fine.

[l1k2gadd]

I have only replaced those when the connector breaks off of the end of the wire. I don't even know if the go bad, but like anything electrical I'm sure they can.

If you get a replacement it might be something you will have to splice in. If you choose to replace it, and can find one, and it doesn't have the male end on it, cut the wire off of it at the condenser-looking end and solder the wire onto the new one so you can plug it back in without having to cut the engine bay wiring harness to install it. Put a short piece of heat-shrink tubing over the soldered splice and heat it with a lighter (to shrink it) and then put some 3M electrical tape over the heat-shrink tubing.

[basketcase0302]

len,

To his surprise it failed.

I've had TFI modules such as these fail only when they got warm, (so testing could only happen when the module was warm).

Would drive me crazy, (made a dealer think I was insane).

And eventually got rid of/and will never own another Ford TFI module powered vehicle.

Jeff

[l1k2gadd]

GMan, this doesn't pertain to our older vehicles... ...one of the reasons I have been regressing back to the older, easier vehicles to work on and troubleshoot (there's nothing like owning a classic car or truck).

basketcase0302, I actually don't know what all of the electronic controls on the newer vehicles are called. If I or a family member have a problem with an electronically controlled newer Ford vehicle I plug my Code Scanner into it and let it spit out the failure codes. The primary group of codes are the more serious problems, as the computer sees them, and the secondary codes are failure codes too, but not as critical as the first group. If there are no primary failure codes then I troubleshoot the secondary codes.

You replace the first item on the failure code list because it can be making everything else behind it that is failing look bad to the computer too.

Some parts, like the TPS I know, but those I don't I go to the books or internet for reference, or I go to the parts store and buy one and locate it on the vehicle.

The Code Scanner, bought at Wal-Mart before it was Wal*Mart has been the best investment I made for the maintenance and repair of the 1980-ish to the 1993-ish Ford products the family members own and have owned.