She would not shut off???

[04stangman]

In a nut shell, this morning I go out and start her up, the battery is dead, without even worrying I just go but a new battery get home, hook it up and she starts right up. So I go get my alternator checked just to make sure, its good. Then when I get home I notice that my positive battery terminal clamp coming from my solenoid cable was broke. So, I go back get a new battery cable and hook it up, she starts right up. So, now I am in a good mood, I let her run for a minute and I get some battery terminal protectant spray and I spray the battery posts and I spray the solenoid posts where the cables are............ I get in the truck to turn her off, and nothing happens? She is still running. I move the key in all directions.... nothing, she still wont turn off. So I pull the ignition, and I cant see anything obvious in the back........ she is still running. So I disconnect the fuel line at the carb...... and I wait for her to die. I turn my key on and my fuel gauge moves, I still have lights....... and power but she wont even attempt to crank? Any ideas? Is it possible that I might have shorted out the solenoid by putting that terminal protectant on it? I am lost on this one, Any input would be helpful?

[fordman]

maybe the protectant if sprayed on the small terminals with the wires unhooked could cause it not to restart. i would think the ignition switch was going bad. is why it wouldnt shut off.

[AlleyCat]

I would begin at the beginning.What caused the battery to fail? Was it old and just died or did it have a draw that killed it? If it had a draw ( short) this may have caused the no shut down condition.I've had the old style voltage regulaters stick and cause similar problems.

Also take a look at the wires at the starter relay ( solenoid).Use a test light on the small one next to the cable coming from the battery.That small wire should have power only when you turn the key to crank.If it doesn't the problem is between the key switch and the small post.If it does have power then check to make sure the relay has a good ground.This was a common Ford problem.

[04stangman]

I would begin at the beginning.What caused the battery to fail? Was it old and just died or did it have a draw that killed it?

How do I know if there is a draw on my battery when everything is off and the key is out of the ignition? Also, where is the voltage regulator and how do I know if that is bad? Thanks bro,

[fordman]

to test for a draw turn everything off. remove the negative batttery cable and put a test light between the neg cable and the battery. if you have a draw the light will come on. if there is no draw the light will stay off. once you have found any draws. you remove one fuse at a time and see when the light goes out. if it goes out then the draw will be in that circut.

[green68250]

The voltage regulator is on the core support between the battery and the radiator. If its bad it will not shut off the current flowing out of the alternator and you will overcharge and fry your battery. I'm not sure how you would test that without the motor running.

Corbin

[AlleyCat]

The regulator is mounted on the rad support between the battery and rad.If the regulator sticks it can cause a draw.

Use the same setup with a test light as Fordman says only to check the regulator you have to disconnect it as it does not have a fuse.

[04stangman]

One more question guys, what is the best way to test and see if its the ignition? When I put the key in I get electrical power to lights and horn , just no start or crank......... And I am lost as he#@ as to why it would not turn off????? GGGrrrrrrrr. She might be for sale pretty soon!

[AlleyCat]

It sounds like a short or feedback problem.Did you check for power at the small post on the relay as I suggested? I'm starting to think you may have more than one problem.

[basketcase0302]

stangman,

Is it possible that I might have shorted out the solenoid by putting that terminal protectant on it?

If the solenoid "shorted" the starter would be constantly engaged.

Check your coil wire with the ignition switch off to make sure you don't have power to the coil.
You should not have power at the coil with the ignition switch off.
If you do have power with the switch off, I'd say the ignition switch is bad.

Basketcase

[04stangman]

It sounds like a short or feedback problem.Did you check for power at the small post on the relay as I suggested? I'm starting to think you may have more than one problem.

Thanks Clay I have not checked that yet because I am still at work, I am going to go home in the Freezing Utah cold and do it tonight. I am just trying to get all the info that I need so I am prepared for the cold battle ahead of me.

[FORDification]

You say the cable from the battery to the solenoid was broken, and it was replaced and then sprayed down. Do you know how the cable got broke? Was something dropped on it? If so, it's possible the solenoid casing also got cracked, and when you sprayed it down you shorted it out. I'd definitely check out the solenoid.

[fordman]

wiggle the key in the switch when you turn it. wiggle it enough that the key cylinder moves with the key.

[04stangman]

You say the cable from the battery to the solenoid was broken, and it was replaced and then sprayed down. Do you know how the cable got broke? Was something dropped on it? If so, it's possible the solenoid casing also got cracked, and when you sprayed it down you shorted it out. I'd definitely check out the solenoid.

I broke the terminal post clamp over tightening it to the battery terminal. I think it was getting old so the bolt cracked the clamp on the end of the cable.

[fordman]

well that could have damaged the housing on the solinoid maybe. the inside of the solinoid is similar to the inside of a gm solinoid it hasa disc with two bolt coming out either side. the disc is electromagnetically drawn up to make contact with both bolts at the same time completing the circut to the starter.