new fuse block
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- 69rangerf100
- Blue Oval Guru
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new fuse block
hey i have a question? i have been locking into buying a new harness or fuse block for my 69 ranger lwb. as i have been taking the factory harness it looks to be in really good condition. what are the pros and cons to just replacing the fuse block to replacing the entire harness.
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maybe if you replaced just the fuse block the wires could be too short. after they wer removed from the old fuse box.
the plus of just a fuse box would be that you could add new circuts.
the bad is that the current wiring harness might not hold up to adding circuts.
if you went all new you would have the extra circut places the upgraded wiring to handle new circuts and booming steros. but you woul dhave to make all of your old plug fit the new wires so you could plug in your switches and all f the other original equipment of your truck.
the plus of just a fuse box would be that you could add new circuts.
the bad is that the current wiring harness might not hold up to adding circuts.
if you went all new you would have the extra circut places the upgraded wiring to handle new circuts and booming steros. but you woul dhave to make all of your old plug fit the new wires so you could plug in your switches and all f the other original equipment of your truck.
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re: new fuse block
I just got done ripping out my old harness and comparing to the new one.
Replacing the harness is a rather daunting task, specifically as fordman says, figuring out what everything really is on the back of the gauges and switches (dream on if you think its perfectly documented in a schematic). The original harnesses are rather odd... there isn't just one single path for power to get to the fusebox, you'll find unused spades on some of the switches and some of the leads seem to loop for no apparent reason.
If there's nothing wrong with your old harness, I'd say ADD a second small fuseblock to wire up what you need.
Replacing the harness is a rather daunting task, specifically as fordman says, figuring out what everything really is on the back of the gauges and switches (dream on if you think its perfectly documented in a schematic). The original harnesses are rather odd... there isn't just one single path for power to get to the fusebox, you'll find unused spades on some of the switches and some of the leads seem to loop for no apparent reason.
If there's nothing wrong with your old harness, I'd say ADD a second small fuseblock to wire up what you need.
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'72 F250 Ranger
Disk brakes, PS/PB, 360 2bbl
Current condition : beloved 'beater'
'70 F250 Camper Special
Currently in the shop, totally stripped
'72 F250 Ranger
Disk brakes, PS/PB, 360 2bbl
Current condition : beloved 'beater'
'70 F250 Camper Special
Currently in the shop, totally stripped
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- Blue Oval Guru
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- Location: Mississippi, Hattiesburg
I rewired mine, granted im going with aftermarket gauges. Cost me all of 150 bucks for the harness, 15 for connectors, and whatever we drank. I got away FAR chepaer than a painless kit, though i did have some probalems that I about ripped it all out over. I got it working and once the headlights are back on, and the turns are put back on, its getting put on the street.