Checking for Draw?
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Checking for Draw?
Hey guys, one more question? Whats the best way to check for draw on my battery to avoid getting dead batteries when my truck sits? Here is what I have done so far.
With the ignition off I pulled the negative terminal off I put the clamp from my check light on my negative battery cable clamp and the check light point on my negative battery post, no light.
With my ignition off I checked the small wire on the passenger side of my coil with my check light, no light came on....... ignition turned on, light turned on.
I dont know what else to do, and I cant afford another battery if this on goes bad........ Thanks guys~
With the ignition off I pulled the negative terminal off I put the clamp from my check light on my negative battery cable clamp and the check light point on my negative battery post, no light.
With my ignition off I checked the small wire on the passenger side of my coil with my check light, no light came on....... ignition turned on, light turned on.
I dont know what else to do, and I cant afford another battery if this on goes bad........ Thanks guys~
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if you hot now light then your good. if a battery sits too long it will loose power while it sits. you can disconnect the battery to keep it from running down while it sits. i have two trucks like that. i was considering putting a battery cut off under the dash of them to make sure they would be disconnected when i wasnt constantly driving them.
- 72stepside
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re: Checking for Draw?
My father-in-law (NASA Engineer) used the Battery Buddy for years on his motorhome and 65 Vette. The Battery Buddy is no more so I hear.
You might find something here similar to maintain your charge when you aren't using the truck very often.
http://batterytender.com/
You might find something here similar to maintain your charge when you aren't using the truck very often.
http://batterytender.com/
Chris
72 F100 Stepside w/ 78 300 CID
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72 F100 Stepside w/ 78 300 CID
Hedman Headers
Disc Brakes
Power Steering with 3 STILL on the tree
Comfy Crown Vic Seats
71 F250 PS, PB, AC, Auto, 390
Loooong way to go on this one!
- basketcase0302
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re: Checking for Draw?
stangman,
An easy shade tree trick is to pull the positive clamp off the battery and re-install at night, (in a dark area).
Watch for an arch when you re-install the positive onto the battery post.
Might have to pull the radio fuse for this test though, (as most newer radio's have capacitors that have a draw) and will cause the same spark.
Have spark when you put it back on, you have a draw on the battery.
Old school stuff right there!
Basketcase
An easy shade tree trick is to pull the positive clamp off the battery and re-install at night, (in a dark area).
Watch for an arch when you re-install the positive onto the battery post.
Might have to pull the radio fuse for this test though, (as most newer radio's have capacitors that have a draw) and will cause the same spark.
Have spark when you put it back on, you have a draw on the battery.
Old school stuff right there!
Basketcase
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- l1k2gadd
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basketcase0302, great advice! This is the way I always test for a draw on a battery that is continually dying on me as it sits in a vehicle over a few days / weeks / or so.
I guess I am too used to the "old" way of doing things (probably because the older generation taught me a lot of the troubleshooting tips I know today).
With the key off you should have no draw on the battery at all unless (as basketcase0302 says) you have newer electronic stereos, amps or electronics in your truck. All of these things should be connected to a circuit that goes off with the ignition key (except for the wires that are needed to be connected to a circuit to keep the memory up on these same electronic devices).
I guess I am too used to the "old" way of doing things (probably because the older generation taught me a lot of the troubleshooting tips I know today).
With the key off you should have no draw on the battery at all unless (as basketcase0302 says) you have newer electronic stereos, amps or electronics in your truck. All of these things should be connected to a circuit that goes off with the ignition key (except for the wires that are needed to be connected to a circuit to keep the memory up on these same electronic devices).
Too many projects, too little time, but.. lovin' it!
2-1966 Mustangs (one 289-2V and one 200 6 Cylinder),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (second one),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (third one, for parts only)
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (fourth one, best of the bunch).
1-1992 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (only one)
1-1993 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (one of the yellow ones)
2-1966 Mustangs (one 289-2V and one 200 6 Cylinder),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (second one),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (third one, for parts only)
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (fourth one, best of the bunch).
1-1992 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (only one)
1-1993 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (one of the yellow ones)
- TheEskimo
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- bluef250
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If you are trying to determine current flow, most VOM's won't work as they are not amp meters. If you use a VOM between negative post and cable end and there is a current, you could burn it up or blow the fuss. If the current is very small, it would register a voltage. A test lamp would tell you if there is a current flow. Light on - current is flowing, no lamp - no current.
If a good battery is being drawn down, then current is flowing. You need to find the source of the power draw. A very dirty battery can cause such a loss, but a short is the most likely problem. As stated, newer electrically equipment will draw down a battery as it has a need for power for clock and internal memory. Also, the equipment can act like a battery with a charged capacitor.
If a good battery is being drawn down, then current is flowing. You need to find the source of the power draw. A very dirty battery can cause such a loss, but a short is the most likely problem. As stated, newer electrically equipment will draw down a battery as it has a need for power for clock and internal memory. Also, the equipment can act like a battery with a charged capacitor.
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re: Checking for Draw?
I had an old caddy with the same problem The easiest way to find a draw is:
1 get yourself a digital multimeter, you can find them cheep and once you know how to use it you'll never use a test light again.
2 disconnect your neg bat terminal and jump it with your MM set on amp scale (when doing this always leave your key off!)
3 check for amp flow, should be 0, if not
4 pull fuses 1 at a time until draw goes away, then you'll know which circuit to pay attention to. Usually it's interior lights, cigar lighter or stereo.
The reason for the digital MM is easy to read and acurate, a test light may not light with a low amp draw. Also if you're looking for voltage with a test light just cause it lights up dose'nt mean you have 12 volts which can be frustrating when installing a stereo.
The problem with my caddy was 1 of the 5 cigar lighters (hidden in the rear seat arm rest) was stuck in.
1 get yourself a digital multimeter, you can find them cheep and once you know how to use it you'll never use a test light again.
2 disconnect your neg bat terminal and jump it with your MM set on amp scale (when doing this always leave your key off!)
3 check for amp flow, should be 0, if not
4 pull fuses 1 at a time until draw goes away, then you'll know which circuit to pay attention to. Usually it's interior lights, cigar lighter or stereo.
The reason for the digital MM is easy to read and acurate, a test light may not light with a low amp draw. Also if you're looking for voltage with a test light just cause it lights up dose'nt mean you have 12 volts which can be frustrating when installing a stereo.
The problem with my caddy was 1 of the 5 cigar lighters (hidden in the rear seat arm rest) was stuck in.
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Also, always test from the neg bat terminal and when removing a battery disconect neg first and connect last, a battery makes a scarry welder and painful explosions in a real hurry.TheEskimo wrote:Couldn't one use a test meter. Hold the positive to the battery and the negative side on the positive battery cable? Wouldn't that show how much draw there is, or am I sadly mistaken?
- kentdaryl
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re: Checking for Draw?
Like James 72 said. There's also an easy way if you don't want to keep checking the meter. Get yourself an old seat belt buzzer and connect a couple of alligator clips to it, disconnect one cable, jumper the buzzer between the cable and the post, let it buzz while you pull fuses to narrow it down to the right circuit. Plus it makes it faster, after hearing the thing going off for a few minutes you want it to stop buzzing!
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Re: re: Checking for Draw?
Very good idea, I love those kind of trickskentdaryl wrote:Like James 72 said. There's also an easy way if you don't want to keep checking the meter. Get yourself an old seat belt buzzer and connect a couple of alligator clips to it, disconnect one cable, jumper the buzzer between the cable and the post, let it buzz while you pull fuses to narrow it down to the right circuit. Plus it makes it faster, after hearing the thing going off for a few minutes you want it to stop buzzing!
- basketcase0302
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re: Checking for Draw?
kentdaryl,
Basketcase
Neat trick! I gotta think I'd become a pretty fast troubleshooter with that noise in my ears.after hearing the thing going off for a few minutes you want it to stop buzzing!
Basketcase
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4