I'd like to possibly install a hotter motor....maybe a 390 or 428. But I want to keep it looking stock.....little skinny white wall tires, and quiet exhaust. My current exhaust system is, I'm guessing the factory setup...it is the quietest exhaust I've ever heard...very luxury car like. I'd like to keep the quietness but would like to know how exhaust cut outs work/perform. In a perfect world I could drive around sounding/looking docile, but with a push of a button, trip the cut out option and melt the street w/ header fire and tires.....
How do cut outs work? Am I being unrealistic? It sounds like fun.
w/370 horse power what kind of 1/4 mile times and 0 to 60 times are possible?
exhaust cut outs are cool until they rust shut. you do have to open and grease them often to keep them from rusting up.. .... i knew a guy who had the mr gasket cable controlled jobs, they worked well .
as far as hp to et , your gonna have to go more than hp to get the et. your going to have to set up the gearing, and think about traction..... i can't get any with a stock set up, and my rear is killing me. i ought to be running at least a low fifteen. but with all motor and no hook up, i ain't going any where quick. and i'm not saying i have that much motor. but i am saying i can't get what i've got to hook up.
See if you can get your hands on a 460, I love it and have made a lot of hot rodders go . Good luck to ya just make sure to beef up the drivetrain as you go too, or else you won't go.
I've seen the bypass pipes at swap meets. Basically it's a 'Y" pipe that gets welded inline with your existing pipes before the mufflers. There's a bronze "gate" that's cable operated. When you need to run straight pipes, you pull the cable that's mounted inside your vehicle and that opens the "gate" which bypasses your muffler.
I've also seen the bypass that has a cover that you unbolt. But that really wouldn't apply for a sleeper, just your occasional visit to the track.
As far as your 1/4 mile times with 370 hp, you would still need to factor in rear end gearing, tire size (width and diameter), type of tires, other stuff like ladder bars, traction bars, leaf springs, weight transfer, line lock, convertor stall (if auto tranny), etc. Not to mention reaction time of driver.
You can also get electric solenoids hooked up to the cut-outs, so there isn't a cable (or two) to have to pull. Once flick of a switch and they open up.
One thing to consider (or at least research) is the air/fuel mixture. I'm betting that if your truck is that quiet, it's got a fairly restrictive muffler on it. Your carburetor is probably adjusted for that. Running without that restriction is going to lean out your mixture, which obviously isn't the best for performance. I seem to recall a setup where you can manually adjust the mixture from inside the vehicle, which would be the perfect way to compensate for that lean condition.
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
Put the engine in the back. Well seriously move as much stuff aft of the rear axle as you can, like the fuel tank and the battery. You might also put some weight back there but that could prove counterproductive. Every 100 pounds is a tenth of a second. Aluminum wheels and skinney tires upfront, fiberglass bumper, aluminum intake.
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