Was on my way to get my '70 inspected the other day and tried the horn and nadda,zippo,zilch!!It had been working fine.
How do I find out what the problem is?Thanks
Dang Horn
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re: Dang Horn
Here's a thread with directions to do a full diagnostic on your horn system...
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... highlight=
KaptnKA S
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... highlight=
KaptnKA S
Washington...The land where rust is like the family pet...Ya learn to live with it and clean up after its mess... KaptnKAOS
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
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re: Dang Horn
Hmmm I just checked... it worked ok for me.
It just goes to my thread from a couple of days ago "more horn questions ???"
This what Seattle67 wrote
Hi kaptn,
Yes, you can test the horns themselves just like you described, ground the body and pos 12vdc to the tab.
You can test the horn relay in somewhat the same way. On the relay there are 3 tabs, on one side there are 2 tabs and on the other side there is 1 by itself. The one by itself is the ground (lets call it tab 1), this is the one that gets the ground signal from the horn button. On the side of the relay that has two tabs, the one nearest the back of the relay is pos 12vdc input (call this tab 2), it should always have 12vdc + on it. The tab near the front is pos 12vdc output to your horns (tab 3). To test the relay, make sure you have 12v + at tab 2, then put a ground to tab 1. With that done, you should now see 12v + at tab 3.
To test your horn button circuit, put one side of your test light on the battery positive, and the other side put in the horn relay plug at the tab 1 spot. Have someone push the horn button, the light should go on when they do. If it doesn't, just start following the circuit towards the switch and look for the point that you have lost conductivity. It could be a broken wire, loose connection in a plug, or something funky with the horn carbon. It can be one or two of allot of things, so just go methodically down the line, don't jump around, and you will find it
Good luck kaptn!
_________________
Dan
I tried it and trouble shot my horn circuits in just a few minutes and found my problem to be the horns themselves...
KaptnKA S
It just goes to my thread from a couple of days ago "more horn questions ???"
This what Seattle67 wrote
Hi kaptn,
Yes, you can test the horns themselves just like you described, ground the body and pos 12vdc to the tab.
You can test the horn relay in somewhat the same way. On the relay there are 3 tabs, on one side there are 2 tabs and on the other side there is 1 by itself. The one by itself is the ground (lets call it tab 1), this is the one that gets the ground signal from the horn button. On the side of the relay that has two tabs, the one nearest the back of the relay is pos 12vdc input (call this tab 2), it should always have 12vdc + on it. The tab near the front is pos 12vdc output to your horns (tab 3). To test the relay, make sure you have 12v + at tab 2, then put a ground to tab 1. With that done, you should now see 12v + at tab 3.
To test your horn button circuit, put one side of your test light on the battery positive, and the other side put in the horn relay plug at the tab 1 spot. Have someone push the horn button, the light should go on when they do. If it doesn't, just start following the circuit towards the switch and look for the point that you have lost conductivity. It could be a broken wire, loose connection in a plug, or something funky with the horn carbon. It can be one or two of allot of things, so just go methodically down the line, don't jump around, and you will find it
Good luck kaptn!
_________________
Dan
I tried it and trouble shot my horn circuits in just a few minutes and found my problem to be the horns themselves...
KaptnKA S
Washington...The land where rust is like the family pet...Ya learn to live with it and clean up after its mess... KaptnKAOS
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project