i am trying to wire my 390 engine to test run i have a 67 f100 that is torn apart right now. i have no wiring harness,but the engine is just sitting on the frame. what would i need to run it? it would be great if anyone had any information that could help me
thanks
devon
wiring engine to test run
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greasemonkey1234
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l1k2gadd
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This can be tricky if you haven't tried this before. BE VERY CAREFUL!
If the timing hasn't been messed with on the truck this could help.
Is your distributor wired up to the negative side of the coil? Are the points gapped properly, or have they not been messed with since you got the truck? If so they might need to be scraped a bit to clean them up so they will spark as they open and close.
Do you have the starter motor cable connected from the post on the starter to the rear-most post on the starter solenoid?
Do you have the negative battery cable connected from the motor to the - negative - post on the battery? Do you have the ground strap connected from the back of the motor to the firewall?
Do you have the + positive + battery cable connected to the front-most post on the solenoid and is it connected to the battery?
If all of these wires are connected to their proper places you can then make a jumper wire that is long enough to clip to the + positive + battery cable post on the battery and clip the other end onto the + positive + post on the coil. It doesn't have to be a real thick wire. It is easiest to use two alligator-type clips to connect this lead so it can be removed easily to kill the engine when you want to shut it off BUT be sure they don't touch the body of the truck or the motor or you will see MAJOR sparks and could cause yourself serious injury if the battery burns the wire, or worse. Once the jumper is hooked up you can cross the solenoid with a screwdriver. You do this between the + positive + battery terminal post on the front-most side of the solenoid with the "S" terminal on the solenoid and the starter should turn.
If your fuel line is hooked up and there is good clean burnable gas in the fuel tank and fuel lines after a short time cranking the engine and pumping the accelerator linkage from under the hood the truck should start, and possibly run.
I DO RECOMMEND that you check with someone that might be a liitle bit familiar with this type of operation so they can oversee what you are doing as you try this.
KEEP YOUR hands away from the fan area around the radiator and keep all loose clothing and jewelry away from the belts and moving parts around the front of the engine or you could very quickly lose fingers, a hand, an arm, or worse if you aren't careful once the engine starts to turn or starts up. Keep the jumper wire to the coil away from moving parts on the engine also. You don't want the moving parts to catch the jumper wire and possibly cause it to short-circuit to the motor or the body of the truck.
If the timing hasn't been messed with on the truck this could help.
Is your distributor wired up to the negative side of the coil? Are the points gapped properly, or have they not been messed with since you got the truck? If so they might need to be scraped a bit to clean them up so they will spark as they open and close.
Do you have the starter motor cable connected from the post on the starter to the rear-most post on the starter solenoid?
Do you have the negative battery cable connected from the motor to the - negative - post on the battery? Do you have the ground strap connected from the back of the motor to the firewall?
Do you have the + positive + battery cable connected to the front-most post on the solenoid and is it connected to the battery?
If all of these wires are connected to their proper places you can then make a jumper wire that is long enough to clip to the + positive + battery cable post on the battery and clip the other end onto the + positive + post on the coil. It doesn't have to be a real thick wire. It is easiest to use two alligator-type clips to connect this lead so it can be removed easily to kill the engine when you want to shut it off BUT be sure they don't touch the body of the truck or the motor or you will see MAJOR sparks and could cause yourself serious injury if the battery burns the wire, or worse. Once the jumper is hooked up you can cross the solenoid with a screwdriver. You do this between the + positive + battery terminal post on the front-most side of the solenoid with the "S" terminal on the solenoid and the starter should turn.
If your fuel line is hooked up and there is good clean burnable gas in the fuel tank and fuel lines after a short time cranking the engine and pumping the accelerator linkage from under the hood the truck should start, and possibly run.
I DO RECOMMEND that you check with someone that might be a liitle bit familiar with this type of operation so they can oversee what you are doing as you try this.
KEEP YOUR hands away from the fan area around the radiator and keep all loose clothing and jewelry away from the belts and moving parts around the front of the engine or you could very quickly lose fingers, a hand, an arm, or worse if you aren't careful once the engine starts to turn or starts up. Keep the jumper wire to the coil away from moving parts on the engine also. You don't want the moving parts to catch the jumper wire and possibly cause it to short-circuit to the motor or the body of the truck.
Too many projects, too little time, but.. lovin' it!
2-1966 Mustangs (one 289-2V and one 200 6 Cylinder),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (second one),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (third one, for parts only)
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (fourth one, best of the bunch).
1-1992 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (only one)
1-1993 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (one of the yellow ones)
2-1966 Mustangs (one 289-2V and one 200 6 Cylinder),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (second one),
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (third one, for parts only)
1-1990 7-Up 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (fourth one, best of the bunch).
1-1992 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (only one)
1-1993 "FEATURE" 5.0 Mustang LX Convertible (one of the yellow ones)
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ToughOldFord
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re: wiring engine to test run
Ground to the block
Wire from distributor to neg side of coil.
Wire from pos side of coil to pos side on battery.
Jumper cable your starter to turn over engine 'till it starts.
Wire from distributor to neg side of coil.
Wire from pos side of coil to pos side on battery.
Jumper cable your starter to turn over engine 'till it starts.