Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
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- HH Henderson
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Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
Trucks was running great. Turn off engine, 1 min later everything was dead. I put a new battery/ solenoid switch. Finally got it boosted off and now the engine will not stop unless I pull wire off the solenoid. Also, when I connect charger to battery the engine starts turning over and wires get very hot. Confused.. Can you help?
HH Henderson
HH Henderson
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
- seattle67
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re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
Welcome HH!
Well, this is a tough one. Don't take this wrong, but from the symptoms, I cant help but think that maybe when you swapped out the solenoid something got mis-wired.
First off, inspect your wiring and look for any damage, melted wires, etc. If you Don't see anything obvious do the following.
Take a look at this wiring diagram, up in the upper left corner is the battery and solenoid, double and triple check that you have things hooked up correct. After you do that, let us know what you found and we will go from there.
http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... rging2.jpg
Good luck!
Well, this is a tough one. Don't take this wrong, but from the symptoms, I cant help but think that maybe when you swapped out the solenoid something got mis-wired.
First off, inspect your wiring and look for any damage, melted wires, etc. If you Don't see anything obvious do the following.
Take a look at this wiring diagram, up in the upper left corner is the battery and solenoid, double and triple check that you have things hooked up correct. After you do that, let us know what you found and we will go from there.
http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... rging2.jpg
Good luck!
Dan
"I plan to start procastinating immediately"
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- Thunderfoot
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re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
to the site!
Sounds like you replaced the Starter Solenoid on the fender correct? I hate to say it but from your description you may have gotten a bad Solenoid... ( I have had it happen more then once)
It could possibly the Ignition switch but from your description of removing the wire off of the starter solenoid stoping the engine that shouldn't be it...
Do you have a test light? If so check that terminal on the solenoid and see if it has power to it, it shouldn't, and if it does it is bad...
Let us know how this goes and stop by the Welcome mat and give a to all
Sounds like you replaced the Starter Solenoid on the fender correct? I hate to say it but from your description you may have gotten a bad Solenoid... ( I have had it happen more then once)
It could possibly the Ignition switch but from your description of removing the wire off of the starter solenoid stoping the engine that shouldn't be it...
Do you have a test light? If so check that terminal on the solenoid and see if it has power to it, it shouldn't, and if it does it is bad...
Let us know how this goes and stop by the Welcome mat and give a to all
Last edited by Thunderfoot on Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
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I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
- HH Henderson
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- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:24 pm
- Location: Georgia, Oxford
The problem happened with the first solenoid. I now do not believe I had a bad solenoid or battery.
took it to mechanic today, He found loose connection at negative battery post. I had thought he may put on new starter. Anyway it started and when I pulled in at home, it would not shut off. I wll ck out the ignition tomr. It is late, I am tired and I want to sleep and dream something good!
Thanks
took it to mechanic today, He found loose connection at negative battery post. I had thought he may put on new starter. Anyway it started and when I pulled in at home, it would not shut off. I wll ck out the ignition tomr. It is late, I am tired and I want to sleep and dream something good!
Thanks
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
- HH Henderson
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By the way, a new starter was not put on.
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
- seattle67
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re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
HH,
It sounds to me as if there were two separate problems. The original problem was when you went to start it and nothing happen, is that correct?
If so, that could very well have been a loose connection.
As I understand it, you then replaced the battery and solenoid, thats when the new problem started, now it wont shut off? Is that correct?
If the above is the correct sequence of events, then I am inclined to agree with Shayne (he's correct 99.999% of the time), it could very well be a bad solenoid.
There is a brown wire coming off of one of the small posts on your solenoid, that wire supplies a full +12 volts to your ignition coil when the starter is engaged. When the engine starts and you let go of the key, an auxiliary contact in the start solenoid is supposed to open, and the brown wire should no longer supply the ignition coil with 12 volts. The ignition coil should now be getting a reduced voltage through the pink resistor wire fed from the ignition switch.
So, in theory, there are 2 sources of power to your ignition coil, the brown wire from the start solenoid and the pink wire from your ignition switch. So if either of those components were malfunctioning, it could cause the problem you describe.
Do you have a test light or a meter? The first thing I would check would be, with the engine off, remove the brown wire from the starter solenoid and see if you have +12 volts on that post. You shouldn't, there should only be 12 volts there when you are cranking the starter. If you don't have 12 volts, then have someone crank the starter and see if you have get voltage then. If you do and it goes away when they stop cranking the starter, then I would say the solenoid is good.
Im going to have to let Thunderfoot get you through this one though, I'm going on vacation for 5 days and wont be near a computer.
I know it's a little overwhelming, but don't worry, we'll figure this one out. Just take it a step at a time.
It sounds to me as if there were two separate problems. The original problem was when you went to start it and nothing happen, is that correct?
If so, that could very well have been a loose connection.
As I understand it, you then replaced the battery and solenoid, thats when the new problem started, now it wont shut off? Is that correct?
If the above is the correct sequence of events, then I am inclined to agree with Shayne (he's correct 99.999% of the time), it could very well be a bad solenoid.
There is a brown wire coming off of one of the small posts on your solenoid, that wire supplies a full +12 volts to your ignition coil when the starter is engaged. When the engine starts and you let go of the key, an auxiliary contact in the start solenoid is supposed to open, and the brown wire should no longer supply the ignition coil with 12 volts. The ignition coil should now be getting a reduced voltage through the pink resistor wire fed from the ignition switch.
So, in theory, there are 2 sources of power to your ignition coil, the brown wire from the start solenoid and the pink wire from your ignition switch. So if either of those components were malfunctioning, it could cause the problem you describe.
Do you have a test light or a meter? The first thing I would check would be, with the engine off, remove the brown wire from the starter solenoid and see if you have +12 volts on that post. You shouldn't, there should only be 12 volts there when you are cranking the starter. If you don't have 12 volts, then have someone crank the starter and see if you have get voltage then. If you do and it goes away when they stop cranking the starter, then I would say the solenoid is good.
Im going to have to let Thunderfoot get you through this one though, I'm going on vacation for 5 days and wont be near a computer.
I know it's a little overwhelming, but don't worry, we'll figure this one out. Just take it a step at a time.
Dan
"I plan to start procastinating immediately"
"I plan to start procastinating immediately"
- HH Henderson
- New Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:24 pm
- Location: Georgia, Oxford
re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
Thanks Dan. You may have it right. I have put the old solenoid back on and the wires are not getting hot yet. I am charging the battery, so we will see in a little while. Have a great vacation.
HH
HH
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
- HH Henderson
- New Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:24 pm
- Location: Georgia, Oxford
re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
My problem is solved. Started with loose connection at negative side of battery, the new solenoid switch I purchased was a bad one. Put old one back on... Working Good!
Thanks
HH
Thanks
HH
"any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves Einstein
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
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1968 Ford F100 360 cu (ole blue)
- Thunderfoot
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re: Problem in wiring to battery/starter 1968 Ford F100 360
good deal, glad you got it working.
FYI, having that wire hot off of the solenoid like it was (from the bad solenoid) it will have been hard on your points. So if you have problems with hard start and rough idle you will know where to look.
FYI, having that wire hot off of the solenoid like it was (from the bad solenoid) it will have been hard on your points. So if you have problems with hard start and rough idle you will know where to look.
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399