Ignition wire resistor

[kuonen10]

Anyone know where the ignition wire resistor is located? I need to remove it to hook up electronic ignition and need 12 volts on this wire and am only getting around 9. I know i could hook up a relay to the battery and use the igniton wire to trigger it but that is way to much work and one more relay under hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Joshpow]

Every place I have seen says it is built into the coil primary wire. The wire itself is a reisitance wire. The auto parts stores list the coil wire as a resistance wire also. Probably have to replace the whole wire from the coil to the switch. Don't take me 100% on that, but that is correct to the best of my knowledge.

[Thunderfoot]

It is the "Wire Itself"... it is the "PINK" wire under the dash, that goes from the ignition switch to the connector at the firewall...
You can replace that piece of wire or run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil. Just splice on to the pink wire a couple of inches off the ignition switch will work fine.

[Supermike]

Check this out...

FYI, I'm 95% sure this is right, however some guys have reported the PINK wire going all the way to their ignition. Mine does not. Thus, I've been too chicken to actually cut any wires yet. But this should get you started.

[7DF250]

The pin on my ignition switch has both the Pink wire and the Red/Green wire at the same pin. The Pink wire runs to the mid dash connector plug which runs through the firewall to the Coil, Oil psi switch, Temp switch. I have not been able to locate where the Red/Green wire terminates after leaving the ignition switch.

I do see where the Brown wire from the starter solenoid connects to the pin at the mid dash connector plug, this is the same pin which the Pink wire connects (so on start the 12V would come from the Brown wire) and on the engine compartment side of the mid dash connector plug it goes to Red/Green.

So, I am thinking that if I tie into the Red/Green at the ignition switch so not to cut it and run that tie wire to the Red/Green on the engine compartment side of the mid dash connector plug that should give me my 12V in the engine bay.

Then cut and remove the Pink at both ends. I think I would need to remove the Brown so it does not complete the starter circuit since it is pinned to the Red/Green at the mid dash connector plug and would now get 12V.

Anyway, I want to get this right so I do not screw up my otherwise properly functioning wire harness.

Thought I would jump into the discussion since I am in the same place on my ignition upgrade. This has already educated me to the Pink resistor wire. I have a copy of the wire color code system which has proven to be helpful. Does anyone know what the letter A,B or C designates after the circuit number? 16 may exist as either A, B, or C.

[Thunderfoot]

For the A, B, or C after the wire number, it is the sub circuit off of that same wire. For example if you look at this diagram http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... master.jpg at the #54 wire it starts out as 54 then as it goes down the line it splits off to 54A then 54B, and then 54C is the last section of wire for that circuit.

Hope that helps...

[7DF250]

Thank you Thunderfoot,

it does help and now seems rather obvious. Supermike's diagram describes my circuit's as well, I am correct to think I will need to remove the Brown wire? After I have tied the Red/Green as described in Supermike's diagram it looks like it would then have 12V continuously.

Hats off to you both!
7DF250

[Thunderfoot]

You can leave that brown wire there as it wont effect anything either way... It gets 12V to it when you start the engine normally when you are cranking the starter, then it drops down to the lower voltage that the resistor wire would have...
So, removing the resistor wire so that you have 12V to the coil all the time it wont effect anything here... You can remove it as it wont be used anymore or leave it if you want to keep your harness looking the same or if you go back to points someday that part will still work.
It's just however your preference is.

[Joshpow]

Just cut the pink wire off the switch leaving enough wire to splice to. Cut it again just inside the firewall where it exits to the coil. Splice in a piece of wire from the piece remaining on the switch to the piece coming inside through the firewall. Tape up and make safe and you've got it. Everything else will work the same, but 12 volts at the coil. Did that to my 72 this weekend and all is well.

[Supermike]

Yeah, FYI, I think there is a difference in the years as far as the Pink wire... on my 67, I could not trace it all the way to the switch, which is reflected in my diagram. I think it ties to the R/g somehwere under the dash.

I still need to dig into that some more, but I've still got brake light issues to contend with right now.

[kuonen10]

Thanks to all who responded mine is apparently the same as 7DF250's because I have both wires at the switch I did the same as he did I just tied the red and green to the red and green and now i have at least 12 volts at coil and distributor at all times. Thanks again