How do I hook up a amp gauge

[FordTruck]

I just put in a set of after market gauges and I got the water temp working but how do I hook up the amp one? I'm not the best at wiring but I'm willing to give it a shot . So how do I go about doing it? I don't know if it matters but the motor is a 302 but I think it has a big block altenator on it.

[FORDification]

I'm guessing your new gauge is actually a voltmeter, and not an ammeter, correct? They connect entirely different. Hopefully you did get the voltmeter, as it'll be much more usable IMO.

Here's a link to a PDF of installation instructions from Autometer:

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/235D.pdf

[Hawkrod]

If you did get an ammeter they are actually very easy to instal. You need to find the largest wire coming from the alternator that goes on a big post on the solenoid. Take this wire off and then connect it to a wire that goes to the ammeter and then another wire will go from the other terminal of the ammeter back to where the original wire was connected. Make sure that the wires you use are at least as large as the original wire is but the next size up would be preferable. Also note that after doing this if the guage reads discharge with the engine running and charge with the engine off and the lights on then you need to switch the two wires on the back of the gauge. Also make sure to use a grommet where the wires pass through the firewall. These wires are unfused and are always hot and will melt down spectacularly if the insulation rubs through on the edge of the hole. Hawkrod

[Jake11]

Most aftermarket "AMP" guages are of the "Shunt" type. A small wire hooks to BAT+, and the other to ALT+.
The direct read need a 10Ga. in and out wire with a fuse link in case it shorts. Or keep a fire extinguisher handy.
All the Mopar's in the 60's&70's had direct read amp guages. They always melted the plastic dash.

The stock Ford amp guage is the "shunt" type. Jake

[Hawkrod]

Most aftermarket "AMP" guages are of the "Shunt" type. A small wire hooks to BAT+, and the other to ALT+.
The direct read need a 10Ga. in and out wire with a fuse link in case it shorts. Or keep a fire extinguisher handy.
All the Mopar's in the 60's&70's had direct read amp guages. They always melted the plastic dash.

The stock Ford amp guage is the "shunt" type. Jake

Sorry but i just looked up a dozen different gauges and almost no aftermarket ones are shunt type and the ones that are are much more expensive. Also, for our trucks the ammeter is a shunt type but that is not the case for all Fords and many 60's Fords are either a direct read or a sensing type not a shunt. Hawkrod

[Jake11]

You should be "SORRY" Your once again, wrong!

[Jake11]

Good at "cut&paste" and plagerising other posts. Ford's use a "shunt" amp guage. If I didn't say so you would have
no clue. You can listen/read and learn. Jake.

Hey, got a drawing of that trans crosmember I asked about?

[Hawkrod]

Good at "cut&paste" and plagerising other posts. Ford's use a "shunt" amp guage. If I didn't say so you would have
no clue. You can listen/read and learn. Jake.

Hey, got a drawing of that trans crosmember I asked about?

Have I done something to offend you? You seem to be intentionally trying to instigate something. It sure looks like it. I certainly did not plagiarize anything and nothing I wrote was cut and paste from anyplace or anybody else. I am really surprised that anybody would stoop to calling names when it was shown they were mistaken and it really is odd that after I linked to two pictures of Fords with ammeters that are not shunt type that you would come back and despite the obvious and clear evidence say that they are. It really is out of bounds to post out of hatred and fear when the evidence is clear that your information is wrong. It is obvious that I will not be able to provide you with any information that I have due to this type of inappropriate behavior. Sorry to have troubled you, Hawkrod

Since you did not like the picture of the Mustang sensing ammeter, here is a picture of a Lincoln wiring diagram that clearly shows a sensing ammeter. I do understand that you are not familiar with the subject but it is true. Follow lead number 37 from the alternator to the ammeter and then see that lead 38 goes from the ammeter and finally to the battery. Many 60's Fords used this including F series trucks, Lincoln's, Mercury's and Fords:

Click on picture to view larger image

[Thunderfoot]

You should be "SORRY" Your once again, wrong!

Jake11,
Statements like this do nothing to help other members and "looks" like an attack / insult to the poster you directed too (Hawkrod)… If you feel someone has given erroneous (incorrect) information, PLEASE give the reason and show information / details as to why you think they "may" be incorrect with theirs. This will also give information for the other members to use and learn from as well. (this is what this forum is for, information)

I took the time to look at some of the gauge manufactures that Hawkrod listed and found the wire diagrams for them;
These are Direct Read as he noted;
Sunpro (there site is slow to load) http://www.sunpro.com/publish/2004/08/0 ... _16301.pdf
Auto Meter http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/667b.pdf
VDO http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-154.pdf
This one I found was Shunt type;
ISSPRO http://www.egauges.com/pdf/Isspro/IS047.pdf

I did not know that the early Fords had direct read Alternator gauges in them, that Hawkrod gave good information on. I knew that our bump sides had the shunt type in them originally but the question FordTruck asked was for an "Aftermarket Amp Gauge".

However, FordTruck did not reply to Keith's post to confirm if his gauge was an Amp or Volt gauge…

FordTruck, please let us know more details for your question; confirm type of gauge and also the manufacture of the gauge, so that we can find the correct / pertinent information for your questions.

Until we get more information from FordTruck to help with his problem, lets hold back on any information that distracts from his initial question.

Thanks,
Shayne

[FORDification]

Agreed. Hawkrod's information is correct and he backs it up with clear evidence. Let's try to keep this thread on-topic, please.

[seattle67]

Just to throw my two cents in on this, in my humble opinion direct read ammeters are trouble waiting to happen. Keith mentioned volt meters, a volt meter is safer, much easier to install, and voltage is much more telling as to the status of your charging system.

Jake, you and I have tag teamed a few times to answer peoples questions, and I have always enjoyed your posts, but with this one it does appear as though you may have got up on the wrong side of the bed my friend. Admittedly, Hawkrod can come across a bit abrupt, but he acknowledges that point and has explained in some of his posts the underlying cause. But regardless of his mannerism, most all of us recognize and appreciate the knowledge he brings to this web site. That's what's cool about this site, we all get to benefit from that knowledge. Even better Jake, is that now and then, knuckle heads like you and I get to help people out too.