3G harness

[LANCE65]

Anyone offering wiring harnesses for the 3G alternator conversion? If not I am planning on 'modifying' factory parts to work in our trucks. Including a new charge wire and mega fuse or resetable circuit breaker.
ANY interest?
-Lance

[robroy]

Hey Lance,

Although a lot is written up about the 3G conversion here, I haven't found a simple, step by step guide on actually doing this conversion. And from what I have read, you don't strictly need to change the wiring harness, although folks do make minor changes right where the alternator actually plugs in.

I've also seen some folks express concern that since the 3G alternator can produce much more current, the stock wires aren't big enough to handle it. But I haven't seen anything conclusive on this either.

Sorry to add more questions to your thread instead of answering yours, but at least you know somebody else has interest in your question.

-Robroy

[mouse]

s to s, a to 12v, I to about 10ohm resistance(gauge, lamp or resister) I is field

[LANCE65]

What I am planning is taking a factory 3G harness and modify it for use in our trucks. With detailed instructions as to what to remove and not remove/or add.

[mouse]

all you need is the two pig tales for the 3G, take the rap off the wires going to the alternator and to your voltage regulator, cut the field from the regulator pig tale and connect it to I on 3G, now the rest of the wires for the regulator can be discarded, connect A on 3G to B+ post on 3G, now re rap the wires your done. you can put a larger gauge wire for B+ if you want

[fitzwell]

you will need the connectors to the 3G unit from whatever donor vehicle. 98 Mustang V6 works out for our applications. The charge post is easy. use your existing wire from your alternator to the "bat" terminal for this one. You will need to add at least a 6ga wire with a 125-150 amp inline fuse to this connection as well. Buss makes a unit called a "MIDI" fuse & holder that works well for this. There is a single pin connector, and a three pin connection on the 3G that you will have to connect, The "A" terminal is voltage sense. this can be jumped to the charge post, or (preferabaly) to the hot side of the solenoid.This is a yellow, or yellow/white wire. The "S" terminal goes to the single pin connector (if you got the harness/connectors ) from the donor vehicle, it's the black/white wire, from the 3 pin connector to the single connection. The "F" terminal is to be connected to an ignition switched wire...the red/green that goes to the external regulator will do this with a slight extention. You might have to mill .060-.090 off the back of the drive pully of the 3g to get it to line up correctly.

[Doug Comer]

I'm sure this has already been answered, but what is the benefit of doing this swap? Thanks Doug

[fitzwell]

I'm sure this has already been answered, but what is the benefit of doing this swap? Thanks Doug

Internally regulated unit, high output, basiclly a bolt in,dead nuts reliable swap.

as always..

[Doug Comer]

Thanks, Doug

[LANCE65]

As long as my back is better, this weekend I will get out there and start making the retro-harness. Once done and tested I will start putting them up for sale.
-Lance

[robroy]

Hey Lance, that's good news; I'd be interested in one of those. Anything that would make this swap even easier than it already is would be really excellent.

-Robroy

[dablack00]

I think PA performance makes the harness. That is what I used on my 68 cougar and 71 F100. The 71 has a 180 plus amps! It turns that big taurus fan easily! Don't let kids near the front of my truck when that fan kicks on. They will be pinned to the grill!

[robroy]

Hi Dablack00, yes I found it on their site!

For unknown reasons it's listed for 1973-up Fords, but maybe that doesn't matter.

It looks like they have a part# 462802B that eliminates the factory external voltage regulator, and a part# 462802C that retains that setup (although the actual voltage regulator is replaced with their own external regulator). From what I gather, the benefit of # 462802C (the part that retains an external regulator) is that it, "This kit allows the customer to retain the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter."

The # 462802B kit, in contrast, is "For those who want a ``1-Wire type hookup'' but having it turn on with the ignition key."

Dablack00, which kit did you use?

And does anybody have comments on which kit is better for our trucks? I don't fully understand the difference between them.

Thanks!
-Robroy

[robroy]

Hi LANCE65,

Were you aware of these products from PA Performance? And if so, is your intention to create the same product as competition, or something different?

Thanks!
-Robroy

[dablack00]

I used the one that deletes the external voltage regulator. From what I understood, the 3Gs are internally regulated so you don't need the external voltage reg. Now, if you delete it, I think your amp meter doesn't work anymore (not that they ever worked very well). I didn't care about not having an amp meter so I deleted the voltage reg. I did the same thing on my cougar.

Also, please, please, if you put in a high amp alt, please put in a good power wire. PA Performance sells those too with the integrated big amp fuse. This is to protect the rest of your wiring and battery. You don't want one of these big amp alts to get too frisky and start melting stuff. That makes for a bad day.

I have this 200amp bad boy http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/pr ... roduct=186 and I'm very pleased with it. It is brand new and I can have anything on and my little voltage meter I mounted below the dash always shows between 12.8 and 14.2 V. When my big fan kicks on to keep the 460 cool, it will dip to 13.7 and that is it. Turn on the lights and everything else and I still have plenty of juice. Now with all that said, if you don't have AC and a big electric fan then you don't need 200 amps. A 130 amp unit will be plenty for 99% of the trucks out there. I just like overkill.

The 302 I'm building will have all original parts, so I will be rebuilding the stock alt that I have to a higher amperage one. I think I can go up to 110 amp in the stock truck case, so that is the way I'm going then. Of course in that truck I won't have a big electric fan, but I will have AC.