I have a 67 F250 with 3 speed on the tree... Everything worked on the truck and then it was put in storage for 10 years. Now the right rear blinker does not work along with both brake likes and both reverse lights. This is the only thing I need to pass inspection.
Any ideas of what to check? I started replacing all the wire nuts that are corroded. And I replaced the bulbs already.
rear lights not working
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- kaptnkaos
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- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:27 am
- Location: Washington, Elma
Re: rear lights not working
Make sure to check all the grounds... that's probably the number one 'cause of lights not working...
I had the same problem with my '68 CS after it sat for a few years.
Anytme there is a ground wire or grounding screw it is suject to corrosion that breaks the circuit...
Clean the area real good it a wire brush, sand paper, steel wool ... then put a little dab of dielectic grease on the area and the screw. That will help with the contact and keep it from corroding.
The second most common probale is corroded light sockets. Moister gets in and corrodes the socket.
The best thing I have found to clean them up with is a new battery terminal cleaning brush.
(the kind that has both the inner and out brushes) The cost around a $1.00 at most places...
I put a little dielectric grease on the bulb before installing it. You just wanna be careful. You don't wanna use very much 'cause it can bridge the + contacts with the ground, causing a short. I just put a little dab on my finger and rub the metal part of the bulb with it.
Those are simplest fixes.. if that doesn't work... then you have to start chasing wires and checking circuits.
Good luck...
KaptnKA S
I had the same problem with my '68 CS after it sat for a few years.
Anytme there is a ground wire or grounding screw it is suject to corrosion that breaks the circuit...
Clean the area real good it a wire brush, sand paper, steel wool ... then put a little dab of dielectic grease on the area and the screw. That will help with the contact and keep it from corroding.
The second most common probale is corroded light sockets. Moister gets in and corrodes the socket.
The best thing I have found to clean them up with is a new battery terminal cleaning brush.
(the kind that has both the inner and out brushes) The cost around a $1.00 at most places...
I put a little dielectric grease on the bulb before installing it. You just wanna be careful. You don't wanna use very much 'cause it can bridge the + contacts with the ground, causing a short. I just put a little dab on my finger and rub the metal part of the bulb with it.
Those are simplest fixes.. if that doesn't work... then you have to start chasing wires and checking circuits.
Good luck...
KaptnKA S
Washington...The land where rust is like the family pet...Ya learn to live with it and clean up after its mess... KaptnKAOS
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project
- Chaseman
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- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:18 am
- Location: Prineville , Oregon
Re: rear lights not working
This happened to me to , i did everything said above and check the fuse ( well looked at it) so I finally pulled it out , it was fine. After I put it back in everything work? So I concluded that corrosion had slowly spread on the fuse contacts while it was in there and when I took it out then put it back in, it scratch off enough corrosion to work. So I sanded the fuse contacts , not a problem since.
Note: I also did this to the Cig Lighter on my car and it cured it.
Note: I also did this to the Cig Lighter on my car and it cured it.
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Re: rear lights not working
ok thanks guys, ill check everything and see if it works
- kaptnkaos
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 2029
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:27 am
- Location: Washington, Elma
Re: rear lights not working
Yep... I had the same problem with my '68... I cleaned the contacts good with a small steel brush (tooth brush size)Chaseman wrote:This happened to me to , i did everything said above and check the fuse ( well looked at it) so I finally pulled it out , it was fine. After I put it back in everything work? So I concluded that corrosion had slowly spread on the fuse contacts while it was in there and when I took it out then put it back in, it scratch off enough corrosion to work. So I sanded the fuse contacts , not a problem since.
Note: I also did this to the Cig Lighter on my car and it cured it.
Still had problems.. it ended up being the back side of the fuse block. It had corroded one of the contacts nearly in half.
I ended up fabbing a new blade style fuse block...
Click on pic to enlarge.
It's a little bit bigger than the stock one, but has three separate power feeds, so I can add new circuits as needed
#1 is not switched so it is hot all the time
#2 switched by ignition
#3 fed from the light reostat to feed the instrument panel lights and other gauges.
KaptnKA S
Washington...The land where rust is like the family pet...Ya learn to live with it and clean up after its mess... KaptnKAOS
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project
"Olde Skool" '68 Ford Bluebird short bus
"FRODO" '68 F-250 Camper Special project