Taking the 3G plunge, some ???s

[averagef250]

Even though my bumpsides are far from stock one thing I try to do is keep the electric system entirely stock for ease of replacement, that and I've never had a problem with the stuff. With clean grounds and a good battery the stock charging system has done everything I've ever needed.

The problem I've run into in the past year is quality alternators and regulators are virtually non-existant. In the past year and 35K miles my 71 has killed 4 alternators and regulators. Each one has been replaced free of charge, but I have it on good authority that you just can't buy decent old electrical parts anymore. The old mechanical regulators seamed to go forever for me. Now I can't even buy one. The last one I had was an original ford one probably 40 years old and I had to steal it off my truck to get a customers truck on the road. Never should have done that.

I'm fed up with the crap old parts out there nowadays so I went to U-pullit yesterday and pulled a 130 amp 3G off a 93 E350 with a 300 six. I also pulled a few brush assemblies from the rears of other 3G for spares. The 3G I pulled has the exact same dimensions as the original style alternator on our trucks, it mounts exactly the same.

I've printed off the diagrams for wiring it. One thing I'd like some input on is the "I" terminal wire that the diagram states needs power with the key in start and run. Why does this need power in key start position? Can I simply connect this wire to the ignition wire in my engine bay? As I recall, the ignition wire is resisted. With my 4BT the ignition wire has virtually no draw on it. The IP fuel cut off it's connected to draws nil for juice.

[averagef250]

Take it I asked some dumb questions?

The big case 3G was actually larger than the original alt I took out, but bolted in to the existing brackets. I had to go from a 53.5" belt to a 55" belt though to accomodate the larger case. I shimmed the pulley a bit to get it right as well.

The wiring was far simpler than I overthunk it to be. I removed the old alt with wiring and regulator attached. I realized I still needed the horn wire which runs in the same harness so I untaped and removed it along with the wire next to it that goes to the regulator "I" terminal. Funny thing I realized while cutting this wire is that the wire that needs keyed 12V on the 3G is also labeled "I". Not just that, but the color coding on the two wires is exactly the same, green w/red stripe. I tested the wire and found it to be keyed 12V. Hooked it up cleanly, fired the engine and was very happy to see 14.4 volts at 850 RPM idle speed.

As they crap out I'll be updating my other Fords to 3G status.

[seattle67]

Good info Dustin, thanks for sharing.

[willowbilly3]

I'm still sticking with the old systems and even contemplating switching my 92. I use only OEM regulators, never ever use any parts store regs, they are all junk. I think 4 failures is a red flag to something. Were you using Autolite regulators?
The 3G might work out well but I hate having the juice going through those spade clip commectors and have seen quite a few melted. They won't even warranty them unless you have scabbed a new connector in when replacing the Alt (now included with most remans). I would almost rather use a Delco S15 myself, and I have never done that.

[fitzwell]

The 3G might work out well but I hate having the juice going through those spade clip commectors and have seen quite a few melted. They won't even warranty them unless you have scabbed a new connector in when replacing the Alt (now included with most remans). I would almost rather use a Delco S15 myself, and I have never done that.

Think you're thinking of the 2G, fire waiting to happen unit. When i was with NAPA, they included the 3 pin connector with the reman units. The 3g should have a large dedicated charge wire to the solenoid, with an inline (100 amp+) inline fuse. Rest of the wires on that unit are small, signal wires.


The only use i can think of for a delco alternator is for a doorstop.


as always...

[willowbilly3]

Hey, now, I made good money swapping out those Delco alternators. My babies would have went hungry if I had to wait for an Autolite to fail.

[fitzwell]

Hey, now, I made good money swapping out those Delco alternators. My babies would have went hungry if I had to wait for an Autolite to fail.

I understand. My transmission buddy's favorite poem.

"Ashes to ashes, dust to dust. If it weren't for the General, my tools would rust"

[averagef250]

I was buying from a reputable auto electric supplier, I'd imagine dealer parts would still be good, but the price likely wouldn't be.

From an engineering standpoint, the 3G seams like really nice unit. Much easier to clock the case than the older ones and brush changes are 30 seconds with your eyes closed.

[willowbilly3]

I just read the sticky. I don't generally pay enough attention I guess. These have been around for a long time. I thought everything was still that lame 2G I guess. I'll be watching for them now. When did they come out and what do you look for them on? I'll definitely ax the 2G on my 92 for one of them.

[fitzwell]

ones i've used have been for 98 v6 mustang application. I get motorcraft reman units. Not THAT pricey , and so far, dead nuts reliable.

[averagef250]

From what I saw in U-pullit the 93 through 98 E series vans with 300 sixes all had the 130 amp 3g's in a case version that is very similiar to the alternators our trucks use. It should bolt right in.

I just discovered the 95-98 powerstrokes use a small case 130 amp 3g with an 8 groove pulley already on it. I need the 8 groove for any cummins application so I'm going to see about making a mounting plate to fit one of these 3g's on a cummins.

[wt4speed#2]

I perfromed this upgrade because I had a 3g layin around off the 302 roller. This is where fitz steps in , he wired mine in about 15-20 min. Seemed good when we fired it , but had cooling issues and neglected to check the 3g operation. Now some year and a half later ( I know I procrastinate alot) I'm nearly ready to fire it again and fitz suggestted we check that 1st off.( getting close hippie)

[M-100]

I got a 3g from a 93 taurus 3.0 .The case and the way it mounted was so close that i used the stock belt for the truck.

[fitzwell]

I perfromed this upgrade because I had a 3g layin around off the 302 roller. This is where fitz steps in , he wired mine in about 15-20 min. Seemed good when we fired it , but had cooling issues and neglected to check the 3g operation. Now some year and a half later ( I know I procrastinate alot) I'm nearly ready to fire it again and fitz suggestted we check that 1st off.( getting close hippie)

yeah, no sense in rushing into anything.

Give me a holler when you're ready.

[papabug71]

Im glad we still have a alternator/generator shop here in town. The owner/operator has been re-building electrical stuff for my dad for 30+years & he has been doing all of mine for the last 10+ years. The guy really knows his stuff & I have never had a unit that he rebuilt fail on me. The alternator that is in my truck was rebuilt by him in 1994 & its still kickin'.

Dustin you are right tho. I had him rebuild a alternator for my Plymouth 2 years ago. It was a autozone rebuild & he said whoever "rebuilt" it should be banned from ever doing it again. He said it was throwed back together with junk components..

Good luck/Matt