"Trucks" show and 66 F-100 lowered suspension

[evanpdavis]

Hi Folks,

Did anyone else see the "Trucks" TV show and when they showed lowering a '66 F100? If I remember correctly, they used DJM products to lower the '66.

Since a '66 is a twin I-beam design, can I assume that the same products can be used on a '67 or '68?

Lastly, the show converted the front drum brakes to disk brakes. They said they used new parts, can one get new disk brake rotors, etc. instead of getting older ones and clean them up?

Thanks!

Evan

[Ditchdigger]

I didn't see that show, but the DJM beams that you are talking about are round tubes welded together. I think they would bend very easy if they took a shock like hitting a pothole. Even with my custom beams that I'm not finished with yet, they flex with the weight of the truck ( with solid blocks in place of coils until finished ). I don't think round ( beams ) would return.

[evanpdavis]

There not round tubes but square/rectange bars. Here is the product:

http://www.djmsuspension.com/Products/P ... 0Parts.htm

I'm not an expert to know mechanically if these would hold up to a good hit or not. Is there a difference in strength between round and square/rectangle bars?

Evan

[FORDification]

About the only things for a disc-brake conversion that you can't get at any auto parts store AFAIK are the brake-line brackets and the disc brake spindles. Everything else is readily available. In fact, I'd suggest NOT reusing a rotor unless you're really strapped for cash. They're inexpensive enough to warrant just getting new parts when making the conversion.

[evanpdavis]

Please bear with my lack of knowledge...I'm seriously thinking of restoring an older truck but I am trying to design it and then see how much it will cost first.

So would something like this be a full kit one would use for the rear brakes?

CLICK HERE

Is there something for the front brakes that has all the parts?

Evan

[DuckRyder]

Thats just the rear,

heres the front.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/3770fordtruckdisc.htm

[Ditchdigger]

Those I-beams will be better than the round ones. Rectangle is always stronger than round, considered its on edge.

[cobraF100]

There's also these from Chassis Tech that look alot like Stock Beams:

http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp ... p&ID=58173

[DirtyJim]

That's some good information right there. Of all the obstacles I could think of, I didn't put coming up with $30K to fix up an old truck at the top of the list. Convincing my wife to let me spend $30K on the truck takes the top spot. After that, its all an easy ride.
I've had more questions on how I should insure my truck once I've spent a lot of hard earned money on it. I'm not sure Geico is going to help me out much there, but I could be wrong. It is frustrating to spend a lot of money fixing an old car/truck/motorcycle and not have it properly insured. I have thousands invested in my 93 Ford Escort GT i.e. engine, engine management, turbo components, suspension, interior, paint, etc. Bottom line here is the car books for only 800 bucks (It is, afterall, just a Ford Escort), so when I hit a deer and did about $1000 worth of damage, all I could get was a check for 800 bucks from my insurance company and they wanted to take the car. I guess I need to look into a premium insurance company that specializes in modified cars; maybe they know how to put a value on things like that. Any advice from you show truck/car guys on insurance?

[DirtyJim]

Back on the subject of lowered suspension, can I get some input from those who have performed the lowering with the DJM dream beams regarding springs and shocks? Do I want to use factory replacement springs and shocks or do I need to use an aftermarket parts? A little confused here. I dont want my truck sitting on the ground, but I want a nice streetable look. How much drop in the rear do I need to keep the truck level with the DJM beams? Should I just get the 4" hanger/shackle combination with the 3" beams and thats it? I dont know the difference between front and rear heights I guess. Am I just trying to keep the rear about 1 inch lower in proportion to the front? Id like to prevent the ride from becoming harsh and bumpy if possible.
The instructions that came with the DJM beams at one point said to use only factory springs to prevent negative camber, then in another section they aid that factory springs can sag and cause negtive camber. I'm assuming they mean to use factory height springs, not the original springs on the truck (which do need replaced anyway)?
I've seen show trucks with the DJM beams in front plus 2 inch drop springs and the rear end flipped with de-arched leafs. this is a little confusing, but Im sure there was a lot of work done to get the front alligned properly after ward?
Is there anything else I should plan on replacing at the same time I do the suspension lowering...can I use the same rear leafs or is there something better now? Any forseeable snags?

[CACWBY]

You can safely run 2" lower springs with the 3" dropped beams. It does give you some Negative Camber that can't be corrected, (you don't want to try bending aftermarket dropped beams-it's not worth risk), but unless you are lucky enough to be able to drive 20K a year you probably will get tired of truck or at least the tires before you cause enough inner tire wear to notice. The stock rear height is higher than front so if you drop front 5" you can easily drop rear 4-6" before you get a butt dragger. It's probably going to ride & hook up better if you keep springs and flip everything, assuming you do the Mandatory C Notch. The relocated spring hangers and leaf removal, & de-arching route also get you there but at a sacrifice in Hook Up Ability(as I found out). Shocks have to be based on Length, closed and extended, and ordered from AIM, DJM, or No Limit, or someplace else that sells this way.

[CACWBY]

Well though they are only acknowledging a difference if using disc brakes at least I feel validated that they finally admit some kind of a difference, though far too late to help me. When I called them in early 2003 they insisted that the beams they sold me were exact same length as stock and I had both side by side on garage floor and the AIM beams were longer, they said if I sent them back (at my expense) they'd look into it (which I guess is a fair way to handle from their POV), but at that point I was fed up and ordered the DJM because when I called them the guy went and measured their jig and it was exact stock length.

[cobraF100]

How did the Aim/Chassis Tech look?

Do they look like they will hold up?

I talked to a guy running them on a early 80's Truck and likes them and has had No problems.

[cobraF100]

CACWBY,

What did you think about the Aim/Chassis Tech Drop Beams other then the fact they would not fit yours at the time....

[willowbilly3]

Correct me if I am wrong but don't you loose a bunch of turning radius with the extended steering arms?
Personally I think I would look into the Dakota front suspension or some other A arm type (not mustang 2) Then you would have something that can run lowered spindles and shorter springs and still be able to keep proper camber. I have always wondered why they don't just make lowered spindles for the Ford I-beam suspension so you don't have to mess with the steering arms ect.