cliiiiickkkkkk

[A_G]

so the other day i tried starting my 67 f250 352 and just got a machine gune click.

so i replaced the fender mount solenoid. new one clicks but a stronger click.

Now the battery is shot, i know that, so ive been jumping it. Used to turn over now the solenoid click.

Starter possible locked?
I tried banging on the starter and nothing

Starter fried?

Thanks,
Anthony

[heep70]

Clean the connections? All of them including the dead battery connections that you jump to? All the ground connections from the starter back to the batt?

[mr_josh]

The dead battery is so dead that it's putting a huge drain on the power source from which you're jumping it.

Clean your connections and replace the battery and you'll be golden. (And yes, a battery can do that. If you leave it on a trickle charger overnight, you might be able to at least jump start it again, but it won't last long.)

[A_G]

yea i never thought of that. ive got another project arriving here in the next 4-5 days so ill just steal the battery out of that.

now ive used two trucks, and jump box to turn this over before.

today i tried with 2 chargers and my pickup and just a real strong click.

when i tried starting it last it kept getting close to starting, poping and such. so i held down the starter, for probably to long and i think i fried it. so this weekend when im fixing everybodys crap.
Brakes on my Moms car, springs on my truck. I might as well pull the starter, cause im know im going to forget soething and haft to go into town for it...so ill take it and have it tested while im at.

[Old Bird]

Battery sounds like the culprit, but don't overlook the possibility that the new solenoid is bad as well.

[Salty]

Battery sounds like the culprit, but don't overlook the possibility that the new solenoid is bad as well.

+1 I had this happen to me with a starter before. Really messed with my head because I was thinking "there is NO WAY this thing is bad, it's brand new!".

[mrsnicks]

I find that your battery terminals and cables may not be heavily corroded so you see white power, but you can get enough corrosion that the metal is dull and it will REALLY affect a poor/low battery when trying to start it. I'd say buy a terminal/post cleaner (and not the brush kind) the kind that actually shaves/cuts off a thin layer of metal from the cable/post. If the battery cables are kinked or have exposed cable you could have corrosion anywhere along the cable itself so junk it and buy a new one.. I always get at least 2 gauge cables.

Patrick

[Salty]

Cleaning up or replacing your grounds always helps too.

[Thunderfoot]

The dead battery is so dead that it's putting a huge drain on the power source from which you're jumping it.

I 3rd that as well, Bad battery's can (often) short out internally so when you try jumping them this internal short eats up more power then what tries to get to the starter + the size/length of your jumper cables also figures in to how much current will get there.
Been lots of BAD "New" starter solenoids so don't be to surprised if it is bad after you put a good battery in.

[fordman]

i hate batteries. but who would want to hand crank over a fe? or who could? maybe if you had a pony motor you could do it.

[sargentrs]

Just went through this. Before you pull the starter, try hooking up jumper cables to the battery and jumping straight to the starter, bypassing the solenoid. Hook the hot side of the battery to the cable lug on the starter. Touch the ground end of the cable to the body of the starter. If it kicks in, starters good.

Also, if you've got a voltmeter, check the battery and see if you're getting 12V. Then leave the voltmeter hooked to the battery and try to crank it, watching the voltmeter. If it drops to zero, you've got a bad battery.

I had a full 12V at the battery but every time a load was put on it, it'd drop to zero. Take the load off and it'd shoot back up to 12V. Also bought a new solenoid and it was bad. Bought a 2nd one and it was good. It happens.