StarRrRrRrRting problems.

[70_F100]

No, put the header sort of in place, put the starter up, then bolt everything together.

I'm lucky, too. Been with my bestest friend for nearly 33 years, married to her for 30.

I was only married to my first wife for a little over a year. I used to think that our marriage failed because of me. She's now on her fourth husband. Go figure...

[72bumbee]

That is what I have been trying to do. Got the header back down and couldn't manipulate the starter back in. tried it 6 ways to sunday. I am perplexed.

[70_F100]

Do you remember exactly how you got the starter out?

[fordman]

this is a good post to tell everyone who has or wants headers about. the joys of starter removal.

is it not going past the headers? can you wiggle it and lift on the headers?

[72bumbee]

what a nightmare. Much harder than I figured. Have it in finally, but went to start it and there was a terrible grinding noise, like the starter was in too far. Are there spacers I need or is there some other awful ritual I need to endure?

[fordman]

ford didnt use spacers. they used an engine backing plate to give the starter spacing. ford did use two different starters for the fe. the automatic and the manual transmission type. you have to have the correct one to not hear the grinding noise. or if your spacer plate is missing from a rebuild then that would be the problem. the spacer is very easy to see. its just a thin metal plate betweent he trans and the starter.

[70_F100]

Check to make sure the starter is centered in the hole.

Loosen all of the bolts and wiggle the starter around until you know it is properly seated. Then, run all of the bolts in until finger tight before tightening any of them.

Many times I've seen people put in one bolt and tighten it before putting in the others. This can cause it to be off-center, which would cause the noise you're describing. It can also cause the drive-end housing to break if it's far enough off.

[72bumbee]

I made sure the backing plate was there. It is, then I put small washers in under the starter and on top of the backing plate. turned the motor by hand, and still have the grinding. Don't want to destroy the starter, just to have to go through this again. what is the deal?

[70_F100]

Did you compare the old starter to the new one while you had a chance to see them side-by-side?

As fordman said, there is a difference between an automatic and a manual transmission vehicle. I think they both have the same bolt pattern, but the nose cone is different.

Anybody know anything different regarding this info?

[fordman]

i was thinking the nose cone or the starter gear was different. i am not sure which it is. i have a pile of starters. here. but i go tthem mixed up and i cant tell which one is which. i only had one that was for a manual. so i installed the one that i thought it might be. i didnt look at it. if this one is wrong i will try the second one i thought it wass. when i do the swap (if i have to) i will compare them.

[72bumbee]

Yea, my fault I did not look at the old and new side by side. I should have. I can turn the fan, and catch those lil teeth, and if I jerk it, they skip past or do the grind. Its like I have to put more washers behind it and it will be alright. I just dont want to start getting messy here. Also, I was toying with the idea of going to auto zone and having the old one tested and if it is good, just put the old one back in? I will ask them if they are sure the new one was the correct one! I can't think of anything else to do?

Thanks again guys.
Steve

[72bumbee]

I was also thinking of putting stock headers on again too. That way I could just do this all day LOL!

[fordman]

that sounds like a plan to me.

[70_F100]

You didn't have the old one tested? That should have been the first thing you did, because it could have been something as simple as a bad ground.

Don't do the washer thing. The chance of getting exactly the same thickness on all three bolts is very miniscule, and you'll end up causing harm to your flywheel AND the new starter, and that will open up the bellhousing for dirt, grit, etc.

Don't rely on them telling you that they gave you the right one. It could have been boxed wrong or any number of other things. MAKE SURE you compare your old one to the new one to verify that it's correct.

Don't get discouraged about all of this. Stick with your headers. Once you get it working right, you may never have to do this again.

[72bumbee]

The old one tested bad and it is off to timbuktu. visually, they were both the same... I wonder if that bendix spring is not retracting all the way? I was thinking of spraying some lube in there and bumping it to see if it retracts more? I really do not want to spacer the thing out so far. I am going to loosen the thing out again enough to spray lube in there, and re tighten it again maybe it is cockeyed in there like you stated earlier.
Steve