Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Inside the cab...appearance, repair, upgrades

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robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Fordnatic wrote:That looks terrific!! Did you get them reinstalled? How do they work?
Hi Fordnatic! Due to a sad sequence of events--I dropped one of the pedals covered in wet paint on the dirty concrete, then my HVLP gun completely clogged--this part of my project has been delayed. Just today I applied the final coat of Rust Bullet Black Shell to the fallen pedal (after sanding it back down to get rid of all the grit in the paint).
Fordnatic wrote:Also, on a different subj-how do you like the rust bullet? I have been going back and forth between it and POR15. :?
The "Rust Bullet Automotive" product seems to work very well. It's easy to spray with an HVLP with a 1.8mm tip, and it goes on very smoothly. It also dries pretty quickly (just a few hours). The main drawback is that it has isocyanates, and is therefore very hazardous. I only spray it with a supplied air mask. Also, this could be wrong, but I've heard that POR-15 has isocyanates as well. It's flat yet slightly glossy.

The "Rust Bullet Black Shell" product is very different. It's much thicker, so it's difficult to get a good spray, even with a 1.8mm tip at 50-60 psi (above the HVLP gun's recommended maximum pressure). And it takes many hours to dry--it can take a whole day. But the benefit is that the final product is protected with an amazingly durable finish! You basically need to use a grinder to get it off. It's high gloss.

I'll be sure to post a detailed report on the performance of Mustang Steve's bearing kit! I'll probably have it installed in two or three weeks.
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by Fordnatic »

If the POR15 has isocyanates, then all the people brushing it on by hand are in grave danger. The can shouldn't even be opened without a fresh air mask on that stuff! It gets in your system and NEVER gets out. When the toxic level is reached--you are dead. Is it possible to brush the rust bullet (with the proper PPE), or is it a spray only deal?

I'll be excited to hear your report on the clutch bearings.
70F100: 410 Merc with tri-power, close ratio toploader, 4.56 detroit locker 9"
68F100 4x4: 390, 4 spd/NP 205, Rancho 4" urethane susp, 35x12.50 All Terrain T/A's
55F100
01F150 Daily Driver: TP tunes, AF1 intake, elec fans, Magnaflow exh, underdrive pulleys, Centerlines
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Yes these paints are pretty dangerous!

Rust Bullet may be brushed, rolled, or sprayed--it says so right on the can. So far I've brushed and sprayed.

I'm excited to find out about the clutch bearings too! If only I could work on the truck during the week (it's 50 miles away from me so I only drive on the weekends).

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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

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With all the parts refinished, I began assembling the unit. Here's the clutch lever shaft going in to the bearing. The fit is precise!

Image

A close up view:

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When I installed the bearing for the brake petal shaft, I decided to test it with my finger to make sure it was perfect. I'm not sure what inspired me to do this since I didn't try the other one. Maybe I was inspired because I needed to use a hammer to gently tap this bearing in place, and I wanted to confirm that my hammer taps weren't destructive to the bearing. And you know what I found? It felt like it was full of skeleton keys and horse teeth! I couldn't believe it! So I removed the bearing and here's what I found--I had dented the inner seal!

Image

Next, I looked in the race at the bearing seat, and had a pretty good guess as to the cause. My fancy Rust Bullet Black Shell paint went on pretty thick, and it built up Steve's welds on the bearing seat--it built them up too high! So they smashed in the inner bearing seal, and also bent part of the bearing's guts. Here are the raised up areas:

Image

Since it was all bent I removed the bearing's inner seal. Isn't it pretty inside?

Image

But the seal itself was bent and I couldn't straighten it out sufficiently for it to work again. Plus, part of the inside of the bearing was bent to, so this bearing was toast!

Image

I took my air grinder and shaved down the painted welds. In addition to removing the paint globs that had smashed my bearing, I shaved some metal off the welds themselves for good measure. I didn't want to repeat this mistake!

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I mailed Steve explaining my mistake and asking if I could order new bearings--he responded almost immediately and said he'd be happy to ship some out. Steve's service is excellent.

I also read from Steve that he just did this same upgrade in his 1967 F100! I urged him to post photos but I'm not sure if he took any. :)

So as soon as the new bearings arrive I'll be back in business--maybe next weekend.

Thanks for reading!
-Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by Fordnatic »

That looks great!! I still can't wait to hear how it works once installed. I'll bet it's awesome. That looks like a pretty common bearing. I would think you could get it locally at a bearing or ag supply store.
70F100: 410 Merc with tri-power, close ratio toploader, 4.56 detroit locker 9"
68F100 4x4: 390, 4 spd/NP 205, Rancho 4" urethane susp, 35x12.50 All Terrain T/A's
55F100
01F150 Daily Driver: TP tunes, AF1 intake, elec fans, Magnaflow exh, underdrive pulleys, Centerlines
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Fordnatic wrote:That looks great!! I still can't wait to hear how it works once installed. I'll bet it's awesome.
Thanks! It did turn out nicely, and I'm looking forward to testing it out as well. I like cars with extra good parts in the things you come in contact with constantly while driving.
That looks like a pretty common bearing. I would think you could get it locally at a bearing or ag supply store.
You're probably right, and I even think I remember Steve mentioning that it's a common bearing that's easy to replace. But I didn't have much time to spend looking around and I was happy to give Steve the business, so I just ordered from him.

Thanks Fordnatic!
-Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

The new bearings arrived from Steve yesterday and today I put it all together! It went together very nicely and the pedals swing so freely now; it is bizarre (and great)! Here are a couple photos:

Image
Image
Image

I can't wait to actually hook up the clutch and brake pedals to their linkage!

-Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

I forgot to update this thread in a more timely fashion, but these pedals have been completely installed for a while now!

I haven't actually driven the truck, but I can sit in the cab and work the pedals. How do they feel? Every time I push in the clutch it's like a badger slipping across a frozen lake!

And it is utterly silent, and the pedal has zero side-to-side play. It feels absolutely ideal.

Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by 70_F100 »

Looking at the photos, it appears that the outer race of the bearing is held in the proper location by the external snap ring. It's a sealed bearing, so there's no need to cover that side.

With that in mind, I don't understand the need for the washer welded on the "inside" of the bracket.

If that washer were not there, the "criminal" weld would not have raised this issue.

As for the isocyanates, just use a good 3M paint respirator and have good ventilation. No need for a supplied-air respirator unless you're working in an enclosed area with no ventilation.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???

That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by MustangSteve »

The washer on th einside centers the brake pedal under the pedal support.
MustangSteve

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67 F100 SWB I-6 (trying to sell this one!)
68 F100 LWB 360 (rapidly becoming a pile of parts)
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AND...
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Hi 70_F100 and Mustang Steve, thank you both very much for replying!
70_F100 wrote:Looking at the photos, it appears that the outer race of the bearing is held in the proper location by the external snap ring. It's a sealed bearing, so there's no need to cover that side.

With that in mind, I don't understand the need for the washer welded on the "inside" of the bracket.
I'm not sure about this; maybe Steve's response explains it to your satisfaction? One thing I can say for sure is that the design and implementation of Steve's upgrade seemed (to me) well thought out and wonderfully precise. It went together very nicely.
70_F100 wrote:If that washer were not there, the "criminal" weld would not have raised this issue.
True! I'm guessing that if I had chosen a thinner type of paint, the weld may not have caused the issue either. Rust Bullet Automotive and Rust Bullet Black Shell make a pretty thick layer when they're applied in multiple coats. And it wouldn't have taken much to cause the problem there, since the clearance was tight already.
70_F100 wrote:As for the isocyanates, just use a good 3M paint respirator and have good ventilation. No need for a supplied-air respirator unless you're working in an enclosed area with no ventilation.
Thanks for commenting on this! Over the year I've been working with these hazardous paints, I've gradually come around to this way of thinking also. With the good 3M paint respirator on, I can't smell the paints I'm using at all as long as I'm in a well ventilated area.

And although this could be completely inaccurate, my country wisdom says that if I can't smell anything at all, then nothing's gettin' in my lungs. Of course the isocyanates could be completely odor free for all I know, and they may separate themselves from a smelly vehicle once they're in the air.

Another point is that the fresh air mask sucks air from a pump that's only 50' away. And despite my efforts to shroud this pump in other air "zones," I inevitably smell a small amount of the paint through the system anyways! And the effect of this could be worse than simply breathing through the 3M respirator right next to my work.

I've imagined a significant upgrade to the air mask system wherein a 3M charcoal cartridge could be easily snapped right over the inlet; then I'd have the best of both worlds. I think I might over-work the pump with the added air drag though in its current form. The manual it came with had big warnings against that type of tomfoolery.
MustangSteve wrote:The washer on th einside centers the brake pedal under the pedal support.
Hey Steve, thanks for posting! You are a celebrity here buddy! :)

Thanks again for the replies,
Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by 70_F100 »

Now the washer makes sense.

As for your "air pump", are you using your regular compressor? If so, do you have a carbon monoxide monitor on it? How about a good filter? You may be putting yourself at greater risk than you would be without it.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???

That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Hey 70_F100!

Here's my air pump; it's a HobbyAir I ordered through Eastwood.

Image

It has a built-in filter over the inlet, but it's plainly not effective like a 3M paint respirator filter is.

Thanks 70_F100!
Robroy
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by 70_F100 »

Just use the 3M filter.

If you adjust it for good fit, it will be just as effective as the forced-air unit for what you're doing.

They are a little pricey, but well worth the money.

Be sure to keep it in a sealed container (read, "ziplock freezer bag"...LOL) when it's not in use.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???

That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
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Re: Loose metal bushings in the clutch/brake assembly

Post by robroy »

Hey 70_F100, thanks for replying!

Yeah the 3M mask is probably the way to go for these small jobs. As for the sealed container, I've had that on my shopping list for weeks--I can never remember to pick those things up!

Thanks 70_F100!
Robroy
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