headlight switch testing

Charging, starting, lighting, gauges, HVAC

Moderators: FORDification, Thunderfoot

Post Reply
fordman
100% FORDified!
100% FORDified!
Posts: 22329
Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:17 pm
Location: Kansas, Ottawa
Contact:

headlight switch testing

Post by fordman »

i was going to do a headlight switch test out of the truck. but i couldnt get power to do anything to a headlight at all. i just put one hot wire direct to one prong. and the neg to the switch. i did make a complete ciruct. anyway. i couldnt get anything. i know the switch and the headlight are good. so i looked at the schematics and it seems the dimmer switch gets involved when the wires leave the switch and go to the headlights. do i have to wire in a dimmer switch too? or do i need a second wire (ground) directly to the headlights? do i have to use all three prongs on the headlights to make them work. i thought only two would give me light. do i have to do the dimmer switch in the circut to make this work and hook up all three wires to make it light up? i want to do as little as possible to show the switch works.
User avatar
m-mman
New Member
New Member
Posts: 182
Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 12:05 am
Location: Hacienda Heights California

Re: headlight switch testing

Post by m-mman »

The three prongs on the back of the headlight BULB.
1 is for the low beam filiment
1 is for the high beam filiment
1 is to be grounded

Power comes to EITHER of the filiment prongs then flows through the bulb to the third prong which is wired to a screw in the fender/core support. Which acts as the ground.

So to make a bulb work ya gotta have power at one prong and ground one of the others.

This can be tested by trial & error with two wires. One coming from the + positive battery post and the other test wire clipped to the - neg post. two outta three prongs connected and the light should come on (unless the bulb is bad)

Check for power at the headlight bulb plug - turn switch on - connnect test light to - Neg post and then test for power at each plug space. ONE should have 12 Volts. (the 2 others should have no power)

IF the little ground wire is not screwed into the fender (AND CLEAN) there will be no light.

HL switches are tough to bench test. because they do not 'ground'. The power comes from the battery, flows THROUGH the switch (sending power to each HL bulb and Pkg light and the dash lights and taillights)
You COULD put power to the single "power into the switch" tang and then check for 12v at EACH power out tang . . . . but plugging it into the dash plug and checking at each bulb is almost always easier.
1969 F-100 Custom Cab 302 T-85 Overdrive, 3.70 equalock & factory 16" wheels
User avatar
rjewkes
100% FORDified!
100% FORDified!
Posts: 3711
Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 1:09 am
Location: Missouri, Webb City
Contact:

Re: headlight switch testing

Post by rjewkes »

So the question is how to show some one your selling it to on ebay that it works. withought wiring it into the truck.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
Image
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
fordman
100% FORDified!
100% FORDified!
Posts: 22329
Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:17 pm
Location: Kansas, Ottawa
Contact:

Re: headlight switch testing

Post by fordman »

basicly. i didnt have it wired right. i was in a hurry. i might mess with it later tonight.
Post Reply