Starting/NSS/Steering column questions

[69rangerman]

I currently have the top of my steerin column apart and have not reassembled yet.
The ignition no longer sends juice to the starter regardless of where the shifter is positioned.

Out of curiosity I lifted the rear wheels, then bypassed the solenoid. It turns over and catches but no matter what I do with the carb, or choke it won't run. The accel squirters are working, and fuel is making it to the carb.

It ran fine before I took the column apart to chase turn signal/brake light failure (fixed)

All other electric works.

Is there some other contact that would interfere with the coil firing, or is the NSS messed up? How do I test?
Is it necessary for the column to be together for things to work?

Thanks for any direction.

[FORDification]

There's nothing in the top of the column that would prevent the truck from starting. I'd start by bypassing the NSS and seeing if that'll work...I'm willing to bet it will, meaning you just need to readjust the NSS after you get your column back together.

The NSS is acutated by a small arm that connects to the shift tube via a hole in the column housing. This arm just snaps onto the shift tube, and it's possible that with your column work you've broken or dislodged it. Make sure that arm is still present and in good shape.

[69rangerman]

Thanks Keith. I did bypass the solenoid with a remote starter earlier, is that the same as bypassing the NSS?

[FORDification]

No, you need to bypass the NSS at the base of the steering column, using a couple short lengths of wire inserted into the end of the harness connector where it connects to the NSS. Here's a picture of the factory bypass plug used for trucks with manual transmissions.

[69rangerman]

Thanks again Keith.
I was always better with picture books.

I'll give it a whirl.

[Thunderfoot]

The NSS will only disengage the starter from working it wont keep the motor from running... so when you jumped the starter it should have ran (if you had the key ON). Check the coil (+) wire with the key on with a test light you should have power there, if not then you will need to check it at the ignition switch.

[ForingaMex]

Jake

[69rangerman]

Confused.
The key needs to be ON or on START position? I've tried with key ON/bypass solenoid but still won't run.

Bypassing the solenoid allows the starter to turn and the engine to turn over.
While doing this I have spark at the cap end of the coil wire. (current getting thru coil to cap)
I also have spark at the plug end of the plug wires (at least the 3 that I checked)

I do have a pertronix 1 but I guess it's operational as I"m getting spark at the plug ends of the wires.

When I either use the accel pump, or pour gas into the carb the engine catches but never operates on it's own.

I'm getting a gush of fuel at the carb inlet, and the accel pumps squirt.

All vac ports or hooked up or blocked off as usual.

I have not moved the distributor in a long time, or moved the plug wires.

I pulled my NSS from the column, and manually moved the pin over while using the key and it does allow the starter to turn. Unfortunately I'm working alone and can't operate everything at the same time. My NSS does not have a plug in like Keiths picture (unless it's at the other end - don't know where it is)

Before I pulled the wheel to track brake lights etc it ran fine.

Preciate any other suggestions or clarifications.

[cep62]

See how many volts is at the coil with the key on?
It should be 9-10 ish
Maybe you disturbed the resistor wire under the dash?
as a alternative put a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the coil and see if that helps.
A bad resistor wire can make it run poorly and stall.

[69rangerman]

Well,
With the old analog voltmeter I have I'm getting 6v at the coil with the key on.

While bypassing the solenoid I've been hooking up my wifes car to get enough juice (drained the truck battery last week trying to start) so I wouldn't thing spark would be the problem.

I checked power at the ign switch (yes), and power at the NSS when operated manually with key on (yes-black wire).

Any chance it wouldn't start at all with fouled plugs? I've done alot of cranking, accel pumping, and gas pouring over the last 2 weeks.

For kicks I may put the points back in also (because I don't know what else to do for now).

Thanks for the suggestions - please keep them coming!

[fordman]

with kieths example picture. image this. unplug the nss swithc from the main wiring. then take two pieces of wire. bend then into tloops . both ends must be bare wire. plug them into the main wiring loop of the truck. just like you had an imaginary plug like the one in kieths picture. if you have the wires making good contact to the main harness it would be just liek the nss was workign properly. or you had a manual transmission bypass plug in place. which is what the plug in kieths picture is. it is a nss wiring bypass for manual transmissions only.

once the wirign is working fo ryou. pull out all of the plugs and spin the enigne over without hte plugs in place. this will clear unburnt fuel out of the cylinders (flooded engine). then put all of the plugs back in or even new ones. if you want. then start the truck again. start it like you would normally. then we can get back to fixing the nss.

[69rangerman]

Thanks fellas,

I'll give these a try and check back in.

[69rangerman]

OK..first things first...
Thanks to everyone for helping me solve another one.

Before I knew to have the ign key ON even when bypassing the solenoid - I had been applying fuel each starting attemp.
The plugs were dripping, and the first attempt with the key ON I got a solid backfire out the carb.

After that I gave it 1/2 a squirt each attempt and after the 15th attempt it caught and stumbled to life. I let it run for 10 minutes to clear out and warm up (and put some charge back into the battery).

Lessons learned:
1. Key supplies only voltage to coil=key must be ON..even when bypassing the starter solenoid.
2. Make sure the plug socket is all the way on the spark plug - ceramic just isn't that hard to crack
3. Ask questions on Fordification first before making assumptions (you'd think I'd have learned this one by now.)