Do your LED tail lights require a different flasher to work?

[basketcase0302]

Guys,
Gotta' save every penny that I can at this point on my build...
I've had a new set of LED tail lights that will go onto BC # 16 for some time now, (if I can ever get that far). While skimming through my new NPD catalog last night I see that they list a different turn signal flasher for our trucks that have LED lights. The tech specifications on it states that the amperage draw on the LED lights are too low for the existing flasher(s) to pull in and work properly. I'll also be re-wiring these tail lights via a relay on a dedicated circuit, so as to not overload the existing wiring. And to allow enough voltage/amperage for trailer and camper lights, (we're talking about a 40-50 foot length of wiring from the cab to the rear of a camper).

My question is this, does anyone here have only LED tail lights that have been added?
And is your existing turn signal / emergency signal flasher(s) working properly?
Is this something I won't be able to confirm until I'm able to wire them in?
Any and all opinions welcome, this build is definitely a learning expierence!

Thanks in advance.

[BiggDogg]

My question is this, does anyone here have only LED tail lights that have been added?
And is your existing turn signal / emergency signal flasher(s) working properly?
Is this something I won't be able to confirm until I'm able to wire them in?

I used a set of trailer LED lights for my taillights (used the trailer LED panel with the stock truck taillight lenses). Everything works fine, except the reverse lights I know its somewhat of a safety/legal issue, but I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. I'm just happy people can see my brakes and turn signals now

Lights on:


Brakes applied:

[Thunderfoot]

My guess is that if you have a standard flasher that the front lights will have enough load for the flasher, but if you use a heavy duty flasher that it probably wont...

[Dragon]

I bought a variable flasher. It does not care one bulb or 8 it flashes at the same rate. It hooks up the same and looks the same but works way better.

[70shortwide]

I did the same thing Biggdogg did. signals flash a little faster, but I always thought that they flashed a little slow before. In my opinion they are better now than they were before, just the right speed

[Manny]

I haven't gotten to this point yet but i understand the logic in there thinking. Turn signal flashers use a lead tin alloy or bimetal to make them work the metal bends as it's heat changes. Standard flashers heat to open. At rest it is closed then you turn on the blinker flowing current heats it up until it snaps open then it cools and closes again. More current equals faster operation (thats why when you see someone towing a trailer with a standard duty its flashing a ludicris speed) Less current should make it stop flashing (case of a blown bulb causes it to stay on not flash to indicate a blown bulb) Heavy duty flashers heat to close so the more you add the flash rate stays the same since it is based on the air cooling it. Inside it has a ground wire that when you turn signal on it heat up via a high flow circuit (essentially short to ground) then snaps over to make contact this circuit has the load a the lamps so it cools and snaps open. So i could see a low draw led creating a no flash condition the same as with a blown bulb in correct factory applications heavy duty or variable flashers that sense the current via a special bimetal as dragon mentioned will be fine.

Finnally in your case as you are adding a relay for the signal circuit (many ford towing packages had this in vans) You only need a flasher that works with the coil of your relay. It needs to match the current draw on the "Flasher Relay" Coil So it switches the relay on and off in proper timing. Then the rest of the circuit led or not won't matter At this point.

In short wire the flasher so it powers the relay pull in coil and the match the flasher to the power of this circuit. Then wire for whatever amperage draw on the circuit the lights will need from the relay.

Here is a handy chart for selecting wire here it also shows calculations for voltage drop since your using the long ol camper. Hope this helps!!

[Dragon]

Where is the chart and calculations?

[Manny]

OOOPPPPPS Screwed that one up didn't i

Try here and scroll down a little

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Keep in mind this is maximum constant duty flow surge flow can be much higher than this, and the wire may take it but size according to constant flow in the circuit don't trust the surge protection built into wire for anything more than just that surge.

Sorry for missing the chart.

[Dragon]

The chart has severe errors. There are wires listed that do not exist. Until 3 awg Wires have no odd numbers. The reason they are too close in values and current carrying abilities to the even sized wire on each side of them.

[basketcase0302]

Guys,
Thanks for all the replies, gives me an idea of what to look forward to and my options.
Dragon,

I bought a variable flasher.

Do you have a vendor or part# please?

Manny,
I'm a lifetime A/C tech that learned ohm's law way back in 76', so the tech on the wiring isn't a problem. I really wanted the "seat of the pants" expierence, (from the members here who actually have the LED lights).

[Dragon]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalo ... entId=57-0

It is yellow and I did not know my from my right turn lamp was out for a couple of days because the flash speed never changes. Oh and being electronic there is no Tick Tick Tick

[basketcase0302]

Thank you!