how do i bypass my ignition switch?

[evanxdeath]

i am having trouble figuring out how to bypass my ignition switch. i have a 68 f100. i have been having problems with my ignition and just want to not have to use it. i have an on/off switch and a push button start button that i'd like to install. i installed a push button start on my wife's jeep, but still use the key to turn the ignition. i didn't have any problems when i did that. i think what my problem is, is that in looking at the wiring schematics on this site, i can't figure out what side of each switch the wires should be on. a friend of mine said that whatever i do, make sure that the wire to the starter is only "on" when you press the button in. but it seems like in the diagram, the wire to the starter is on whenever the key isn't in the off position. any help? i realize that this shouldn't be a hard problem. i think that i am just over thinking it.


it doesn't help that my truck is sitting in the parking garage at work, unable to start.

thanks for any help.

[knightfire83]

So what exactly is your truck doing as far as the problem?

Starter running all the time?

Not turning over at all?

Cranks but engine wont fire?

9 times out of 10 starter related problems on our trucks = bad starter solenoid.

You can certainly rewire your truck as you described, but It'd probably be easier to fix the original problem.

[fordman]

the solution is in the diagrams

[evanxdeath]

the starter relay is new, the ignition coil is new, the battery is brand new, the cables are new, the alternator is new.

my truck wouldn't start one day so i got a jump. i went and had my battery tested and it was dead. i replaced the battery. it started right up for a day and a half. then it wouldn't start again. the lights started dimming. when i tried to start it it at first seemed like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't. then i would try again and the ignition made the noise it made when you try to start your car when it's already on. then all of the electrical went dead. i had that battery recharged since it was brand new. they said the battery was bad and gave me a new one.

so right now i have a brand new, unused battery, ready to go in.

and fordman, you are definitely right. i guess its just every time i start thinking about it, i am nowhere near my truck.

thanks for your help. hopefully i'll get it done right tomorrow.

[ForingaMex]

I'm not sure why you think that the problem (Battery going dead) is the ignition switch. If you really want to eliminate the ignition switch, it can be done but it's not as simple as one on/off switch and one push-button switch. One thing I'm thinking is this, just because the alternator is new doesn't always mean it will charge. Are you sure it's charging properly?

[knightfire83]

Alternator or voltage regulator problem. Have the alternator tested when you go pick up a new regulator.

Then make sure the alt. is hooked back up properly and check all the wiring from there to the regulator.

[evanxdeath]

so i just drove to work to see what i could do about my truck. i got it to start when i pushed my start button, but as soon as i let go, everything cuts off. my guess is that a previous owner did a number on the wiring. i know that they really did a number on the alternator wiring. they chopped and hacked away at everything. i guess i'm going to have to follow each wire and see where it goes instead of relying on the wiring diagram.

[fordman]

the wire has to touch together and stay touched to get it to keep running.

[knightfire83]

Apparently there is no connection for power to the ignition coil from the ignition switch... or whatever got hacked in there.

When trying to start the engine the solenoid is supplying voltage to the ignition coil via the "I" terminal, but only when it is cranking.

Still got an ignition switch in there? Check the plug on the back and make sure it's plugged in all the way. Look for broken wires leading to the switch, you're actually looking for the ignition resistance wire that connects to the back of the switch. (thinner)

Could also just be a bad ignition switch, get one from a parts store for a few bucks.

For a band aid fix to get it home you can run a wire from the ignition coil + (opposite from the wire that goes to the dist.) to the battery + post. It will should stay running until you disconnect this wire. Route it away from the pulleys and fan.

Or you can do the same thing at the starter solenoid by connecting a jumper wire from the "I" terminal to battery + power. Make sure its in park or neutral with the brakes on in case you accidentally put power to the "s" terminal on the solenoid which will crank the engine and run you over.

Once you get home, remove the jumper wire to stop the engine.

From there it's a matter of finding the break in the ignition circuit that is preventing power getting to your coil.