HELP!!

Charging, starting, lighting, gauges, HVAC

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hotrod ford
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HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

Let me start with I had (or again have) an electrical issue. A few days ago I had no lights on the rear of my truck. No park, blinkers, b/u nothing. I got a wire diagram from another site and traced each wire on the bed lights. Replaced the bed harness and hard wired each wire. Got the park, blinks and b/u to work. All I need was the brakes. So I traced the wires for the brake switch and 4-way flashers which needed to be connected. Did that and nothing. A friend said to hardwire the brakes switch to the brakes themselves. One wire to the ignition, one grounded and the other to the lights. So, I did. Craked the truck and it died. Now it won't turn over, no lights, wipers don't work. NOTHING!!! Please help me with this problem.
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
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Dragon
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Re: HELP!!

Post by Dragon »

Disconnect all your last hard wires. Then see if you can get the truck to fire. Your friend needs to go back to school. The Brake light signal goes through the turn signal switch (TSS).

If it won't fire then come back with all the symptoms you can see. Check for the fusible link under the hood by the alternator and battery area. Clean all the battery terminals.

You need a Multimeter or a Voltmeter.
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hotrod ford
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

I disconnected the wire harness from the gauge panel and reconnected. Truck fired right up. Tells me I have a loose wire, but still can not get the brakes to work. I connected the positive to the ignition terminal and tried to start the truck and it just cranked over and over. Removed that wire from the brake switch and left the other end on the terminal and the truck fired right back up. I followed all the wires according to the 1970 wire diagram and can not find where the fault is. I found the wires going from the switch to the flasher to the flasher switch to the fuse box and to the ign switch. everything was connected as the chart said but the lights did nothing. So, thats when my buddy said avout the hard wires.
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
hotrod ford
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

Dragon, thank you for all this info. I'm not messing with it anymor tonight but will tomoorow and will keep you posted on my progress. Thanks, Bill
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
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Re: HELP!!

Post by fordman »

definetly disconnect the hard wiring from the brakes. i have no idea what was blowing your fuse. a fuse blows when thier is too much load on it. soemtimes because a hot wire has grounded out some place.
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

on the ignition switch there is a pink (resistor wire) and it goes throught the fire wall and is going to the oil press sender. also at the ignition this same wire is connected to a red and green wire that goes to a factory splice. this red/green wire has been removed from the igintion switch and was capped off. what is this wire for?
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Re: HELP!!

Post by ForingaMex »

hotrod ford wrote:on the ignition switch there is a pink (resistor wire) and it goes throught the fire wall and is going to the oil press sender
:nono: The pink risistor wire goes (or should go) to the coil, not the oil pressure sender. I'm not sure about the wire that is capped off.
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Re: HELP!!

Post by Dragon »

Red green wire feeds other things during run only like Carb idle solenoid . The pink wire changes color at the connector outside of the firewall. According to one diagram it becomes Red Green.
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

ForingaMex wrote:
hotrod ford wrote:on the ignition switch there is a pink (resistor wire) and it goes throught the fire wall and is going to the oil press sender
:nono: The pink risistor wire goes (or should go) to the coil, not the oil pressure sender. I'm not sure about the wire that is capped off.
sorry i meant to say coil (sleepless night). that is true it becomes red/green and goes to the coil. what about the red/green under the dash? it and a red/yello wire splices into a blue and green/yellow wires. anyway all except for the bad lookin resistor wire i can not find anything physically wrong with the wires that may be causing my brake problem. everthing is connected and nothing open, broken, chaffing and all is grounded. even removed the fuse box from the fire wall and looked on the back side. one more thing though. on the porpotioning valve there is a switcg with 2 purple wires that go to it. it is for the brakes, does it matter which wire goes where?
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1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
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Re: HELP!!

Post by Dragon »

The proportioning valve (wrong term it portions nothing) The brake warning switch has nothing to do with the brake circuit all it does is turn on the warning light, It shares nothing at all in the brake system wiring with the brake light. The wires don't care which way it is hooked up.
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98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

alright, took the tss off of the steering column and inspected it and reinstalled. reinstalled everything i removed yesterday. also, replaced that pink wire with one i had from an old harness. now the left brake works good but if i nudge up on the turn switch handle the right works as well. is there a way to adjust the tss so the right will work to?
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
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Re: HELP!!

Post by fordman »

no adjustment on them they either work or they are worn out. usually. soemthign kind o fdumb. but if the tss cam is warping outway from the switch yo umight be able to heat the cam and push it back closer to the switch. it may not work though. it could just trash the cam.
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Re: HELP!!

Post by hotrod ford »

will i need to replace the whole tts or just the cam?
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
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Re: HELP!!

Post by fordman »

i don't know i would have to see it to tell for sure. it really depends.
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