multimeter
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- Blue Oval Fan
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multimeter
I have changed everything I know to change in turn signal repair to fix recently deceased turn signals and I must learn to use a multimeter because this isn't working. What multimeter setting should I choose and where all should I poke the probes and what should volts be at those spots to figure out these dead turn signals? My parts swapping without testing has only enabled me to spend money and not fix the problem. I've always been weak on electrical things, not knowing how to test or what not and I just cannot fix these turn signals and folks are trying to run over me!
Brisco Darlin'......"You sure do render good Sheriff!"
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Re: multimeter
a test light would probably be what you want. to check for power flowing to or in a certain area or direction. a mulitmeter is more for checking how much is going through a certain spot. the light will light up when power is present and wont light if it has no power at all.
- m-mman
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Re: multimeter
Fordman is correct a test light is all you need.
Turn signal simple basics:
Power from the battery goes thru the key, then the fuse box to the flasher. From the flasher it goes to the turn signal switch in the steering column. The power is looking for a ground. When you move the switch you connect the power from the flasher to the bulbs. (both front and rear) If the bulbs are well grounded (and not burned out) the power goes to ground.
THEN with power flowing THROUGH the flasher the small metal arm inside the can gets HOT and warps/bends away from its contact. Almost instantly it cools again and snaps back to make a connection. This is what causes the lights to flash.
This electrical path can be followed using the wiring diagrams accessable from the front page.
use the test light and see if you have power at each pont; key, fuse, flasher, TSS, bulbs. Whenever you find a spot that has no power back up to the last connection and see why it isnt making it there.
If the power never reaches ground or doesnt draw enough power (one bad bulb) the flasher doesnt flash.
If the power draw is TOO HIGH (plug in trailer lights) then the little arm gets too hot, too fast and the lights 'flicker'.
Turn signal simple basics:
Power from the battery goes thru the key, then the fuse box to the flasher. From the flasher it goes to the turn signal switch in the steering column. The power is looking for a ground. When you move the switch you connect the power from the flasher to the bulbs. (both front and rear) If the bulbs are well grounded (and not burned out) the power goes to ground.
THEN with power flowing THROUGH the flasher the small metal arm inside the can gets HOT and warps/bends away from its contact. Almost instantly it cools again and snaps back to make a connection. This is what causes the lights to flash.
This electrical path can be followed using the wiring diagrams accessable from the front page.
use the test light and see if you have power at each pont; key, fuse, flasher, TSS, bulbs. Whenever you find a spot that has no power back up to the last connection and see why it isnt making it there.
If the power never reaches ground or doesnt draw enough power (one bad bulb) the flasher doesnt flash.
If the power draw is TOO HIGH (plug in trailer lights) then the little arm gets too hot, too fast and the lights 'flicker'.
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Re: multimeter
I agree that you don't need a multimeter but if you already have one: For your purpose, you just want to know if the connection has power or doesn't. Set it on DC and any voltage over 12 that causes the needle to move when connected to the power and ground. It won't hurt to use the higher voltages, the needle will only move less.
A Google search for how to use a multimeter turns up this:
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp& ... 5da4f245a4
A Google search for how to use a multimeter turns up this:
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp& ... 5da4f245a4