Seatbelts & Glove Compartment

[jprado]

First, I want to thank everyone who has been so kind as to respond to my many "newbe" questions in other forums.

Ok, so I want to attach a seat belt w/ a shoulder strap and wonder how I might do that. I have a '69 F 100. Inside the cab and up against each side of the cab wall there is a hole. Currently there is a piece of dry rubber inserted in each hole. Looks like it actually goes there. Anyway, is this where I might screw in a shoulder strap? Or, was this for attaching a hook to hang a jacket? If the hole is not for a shoulder strap, then how do I get them in my truck?

Maybe I should just buy a new seat w/ integral seatbelts - hopefully three of them - w/ one in the middle for my daughter. Has anyone made this kind of modification on their '69 pick up. Mine is a shortbed (don't know if it makes a difference).

Ok, that glove compartment button is one head ache! It is a pain to press correctly for the glove compartment door to open. I suppose it is a simple replacement. My father-in-law always had the same problem in his Ford pick-up.

This website is GREAT! I will indeed pay it forward when I have accumulated enough experience and expertise to help the next guy out.

Thank you all in advance.

[mybros71]

Try this post.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =6&t=50489

I'm sure there are others but Robroy always has a good write-up. Search "shoulder" in interior.

[mybros71]

As far as the glove box is concerned, do you have the spring loaded plunger in placed at the top lecft corner? If not, its a PITA to open.

[fordman]

the link to the seat belts is probably a good one knowing robroy was involved. so i will eave that alone. he did a great job writign up all his other stuff so the seatbelt thread has to be good also.

the glove box latch seems to be a standard smack the button type of deal on most of these trucks. i have always seen the springs on them and they always pop open. so i cant comment on no spring behind the door. what i have seen is the latch itself can get dirty. and harder to open. you can take the latch apart an clean it. and work it several times with lubricant. and the latch will finally start to open good again. alot of what the latch does wrong is it rubs the back part of itself as the button is pushed to open the door. and that is metal to metal contact and will create shavings that get worked into the factory lube and then the latch gets sticky from being dirty with that mixture.

[Racer Z]

I just installed the upgrade 3-point belts in my F250. I installed them differently than in the above link. Mostly because I did not read that topic until after the fact and partly cause my new belts are different.

I bought mine from LMC. They came with the hardware but no instructions. I used the original threaded holes as well as the threaded hole in the B pillar.

Inside the cab and up against each side of the cab wall there is a hole. Currently there is a piece of dry rubber inserted in each hole. Looks like it actually goes there. Anyway, is this where I might screw in a shoulder strap?

Yes that is for the seatbelt.

I used the "L" bracket to mount the outer lap-belt and the spring-roller to the same mounting point.

I also ordered a single lap belt. The truck has the mounting points for a center belt, but they're not threaded. I will tap them to the same thread pitch as the other lap belts tomorrow.

[jprado]

Thanks to everyone.
I'll check out that exchange/link.

[rugby1725]

A question for those that have put 3 belts in. I noticed in mine that there is only the 2 mount points for the latch ends behind the seat. When I read on the manufacturers sites they tell you to only mount one belt per anchor. If this is the case how do you get a center belt mounted. Do I need to add extra mount points behind the seats or get a different belt that has a 2 into one kind of anchor or do I just put 2 belts on one mount and call it good.

Thanks
Kris

[fordman]

ford used the center set hooked up to the two bolts in the back. i guess if you want to do it thier way. which may be the right way for thier product. you could drill holes int he floor and ptu small plates around the holes for the belt botls to go through. that way it would give strength to the floor around the bolt hole.

[Racer Z]

Both my F250's (69 & 70) have a second set of mounting points on the floor near the location being used. They are not threaded though. They seem to be ready for threading, which I will try after I make a tool. 7/16 x 20 NF is the thread pitch used on the other bolts. I suppose you could use a thinner bolt and nut as long as it's grade 5.

If you don't have this pre-installed mounting point, you will need to drill a hole (2) and use a reinforcing plate. On race cars we have to use 3/16 plate and about 4 inches diameter, both sides of the bolt. You don't want the sheet metal tearing or the bolt pulling through.

edit: had to correct the thread pitch.

[fordman]

Both my F250's (69 & 70) have a second set of mounting points on the floor near the location being used. They are not threaded though. They seem to be ready for threading, which I will try after I make a tool. 7/16 x 16 NF is the thread pitch used on the other bolts. I suppose you could use a thinner bolt and nut as long as it's grade 5.

If you don't have this pre-installed mounting point, you will need to drill a hole (2) and use a reinforcing plate. On race cars we have to use 3/16 plate and about 4 inches diameter, both sides of the bolt. You don't want the sheet metal tearing or the bolt pulling through.

yes thats right. i forgot all about those holes with the rubber plug in them. thanks for helping with that.

[jprado]

thanks!

[Racer Z]

I corrected the thread pitch in my earlier post. The correct thread pitch is 7/16-20 NF.

Today I tapped the threads and installed the center seatbelt. I used the stock bolts from my parts truck as they included the proper shank to allow the belt clasp to swivel. OEM also included two rubber spacers to prevent clatter.

I used a special adapter and a 3/8 ratchet with extension. This allowed me to get above the fuel tank and turn the tap. Lucky me, I was able to borrow both a tap and adapter.