I think my headlight switch (right) is trashed. Oddly, it still worked but would spaz out if I twisted the knob/rheostat. Check out the spring!
Anyway, I bought a new one (left), but there's no spacer on the front. Is there any way to take the spacer off the old one or do I need to take it back and get the right switch from someone else?
here is what you can try to do. if the tang on the old switch for the rheostat isnt messed up or bent. push the white ceramic thing back towards the front of the switch. pull upwards once it gets back far enough. everything in the fornt of the switch will come out at once. . it is spring loaded so be carefull that everything doesnt fly out all at once. once it is out remove the other rheostat from the other switch. then reinstall the good rheostat in the old switch. i did this myself. just to see if it coul dbe done. and i was able to do it. but my tang was slightly bent so it didnt operate perfectly. but it does work now after i bent the tang back into place. that took some doing though.
i have seen other switches that the front spacer does come off. and i have seen most original spacer that dont come off. that is the best i can think of.
OK, I stayed up until 2 am trying to get it put back together. In doing so, I bent the tang all to heck. I re-bent it so it would just rub along on the spring rheostat. I don't know if it is shaped the way it was originally but it seems to work. The whole rheostat seems a bit unstable. I guess it really needs the shaft of the knob to hold it all together.
Do you have a photo of how the tang is supposed to look?
here are the two i have here. one of them doesnt have the spacer and is the one i replced the rheostat in. the other is the one i am goign to try and sell. i just need to get the dirt out of the grooves of the knob.
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That top one is just like mine, with the serrations on the ceramic and the tang bent into a backwards "C" shape. Evidently with mine, the tang must have caught on the spring at one point and snagged it out of the recess in the ceramic. It looked like a Slinky exploded.
The bottom one looks aftermarket. I like that tang better but there is no way to remove it and put it on the old switch.
Did you get the spacer fixed on there? I was lazy when I did mine and I just held it all up there under the dash until I got the plate screwed on from the front side. It was a pita, but it is possible and one it is tight, it will hold forever.
Bill
1967 F-250 LWB 2WD 352 V8, 4spd manual, true duals, 122k original miles (currently being restored)
2024 F350 CCSB, darkened bronze
You know, you could just cut the spring out, solder in a length of wire (between the two contacts that the spring connects) and have max brightness dash lights (which, let's face it, aren't exactly blinding) all the time.
fireguywtc wrote:Did you get the spacer fixed on there? I was lazy when I did mine and I just held it all up there under the dash until I got the plate screwed on from the front side. It was a pita, but it is possible and one it is tight, it will hold forever.
I just took the rheostat (ceramic wheel, spring and plastic parts) out of a new one and transplanted it into the old switch, like Fordman said. I haven't installed it to see if it works yet.
Im in the process of switching my light switch. Sumthing went wrong inside and im totatly stumped. It was working fine and then just didnt work. I checked all the fuses and connection and nothing. it all leads back to the switch. How do i go about removing it and checking all the possible reasons why it would just stop working?
Reach up under the dashboard and feel around on the flat metal part of the switch and you'll find a spring loaded button. You can see what I'm talking about in the pics fordman posted. Push that button in and the knob and shaft will pull out the front. Kinda stubborn and tricky sometimes but it will pull out. Use a large screwdriver or needle nose pliers and remove the bezel ring from the front of the dashboard. Pull the switch out of the back and wiggle the plug loose from the switch. Be careful with pulling the plug out, they tend to get brittle with age. I never bothered testing 'em. They're inexpensive to replace, $20-$30 and in stock at most parts stores.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
I replaced my headlight switch about 4 months ago and looked like 91Bears new switch when it come out the box, i tryed to put it in but the space wouldnt stay put for me to get it in so i put a few drops of glue on the spacer to hold it to the switch and put it in the next day. Went together easy after i glued it, but before i glued it and tryed to put it in i wanted pull out my hair.
