Painting my intake

[dotcentral]

Finally got my 4 barrel Intake bead blasted and started painting it. Its a 65 cast iron ford part. Was red, but I'm painting it blue to match my 70 302. I'm sure it's the lo-po 289 intake. What's a good ford site to look up the part number?

About painting engine components, doesn't seem to be much discussion on this in the sites I visit, I found one post on the FTE site. My question is, is primering necessary? I've started fogging on my Plasti-Coat hi temp Ford blue. Figured I'd do multiple light coats to get good coverage and hopefully a little durability. Is this going to work? I've never seen hi-temp primer. The bead blasting put a nice texture to the intake, hoping that helps adhesion.

Also, I forgot to remove the sheet metal cover on the bottom of the intake. Was hoping the guys blasting it would take it off but no luck on that one. Figure I need to do that to clean it up and make sure no grit is in there after the blasting.

[FORDification]

You'll DEFINITELY want to make sure that bottom cover gets removed and cleaned up prior to installation, since you said you'd bead-blasted the top. There will be enough crap that got down in there that would find it's way into the engine once installed, if you don't remove it now.

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using a primer with hi-temp engine paint. I didn't with the 455 in my 442, and other than the few places the paint got nicked when I was installing the engine (DOH!) it looks good after many years. I definitely think you're doing the right thing with multiple thin coats vs. 1-2 thick coats.

[heep70]

What is the casting # on the intake. I have some general info here that might ID it better for ya.

Most definitly get that cleaned out under that sheet metal cover. You are asking for trouble if you don't.

[dotcentral]

Figured I'd need to remove the cover.

Part number is 15426378. J/k. Part # is C50E-9425-A. I was told it came off a mustang, but who knows. Could be a falcon, fairlane, etc. I think the guy has a set of heads from the same engine. I doubt they'd be anything special though.

[heep70]

C50E-9425 -A

C5 = year built "1965"

0 = model "Fairlane"

E = warehoused "unknown". If this was an "X" it would have been a muscle car part (HI-PO).

9425 = identifies what the part is "intake"

A = the revision (how many time this part has been revised)

Hope this helps.

[dotcentral]

E = warehoused "unknown"

Thanks Heep. I knew it was a 65. What does the "E" part mean? Is it a code for regular production items, or service/replacement parts?

What were the HP ratings on the 289's these manifolds were used on? Something like 220?

Good to know about the "X" code. What years does the "X" hold true for?

O=Fairlane

does this refer to the car or the engine? I think I remember reading somewhere these engines where known as fairlane series of engines since they were designed for the early fairlanes. I don't know if that would have been a Ford term or a term someone else might have used to differentiate between these and the Y blocks.

[dotcentral]

I got the cover off pretty easy. There was some crap in there, got it all out, but what about the thing that looks like a plug with a hex head/large allen head recess? Does that come out? Not sure that it can. I'm thinking that i just need to go over the area and underside of the sheet metal cover with brake cleaner and put the baffle back on and call it done.

I know this thing is to help cold starts. Is it just a reservoir to hold exhaust gas, keeping a little warm exhaust under the manifold to help gas atomization?

[heep70]

I am not real familiar with the 90 degree V8s. The 289 V4 had 225hp. The head volume is smaller on the 289 heads allowing it to have a 10:1 compression.

The "E" was were the part was to be warehoused until assembly.

The "O" stands for which boby style the part was made for, a Failane in your case.

The plug in the bottom of the manifold is another access hole. Don't worry about it.

A cool book to have is "Ford Performance". It has a burnt yellow color cover with four pictures of engines on the front. There is a great deal of info and specs on all the older Ford engines.

[jreb333]

The "O" stands for which boby style the part was made for, a Failane in your case.

i dated a girl with "O" boby's once

sorry i couldnt help myself

[willowbilly3]

I don't think there was any difference in the 289 heads unless you had a K code Hipo. Right now the GT40P heads are the best factory head. They are out og production at Ford but you can find lots of them on ebay and I think it was Ssummit that had them ready to go for under $600 a pair. That's not bad considering you can sink almost that much into rebuilding crappy wheezers.
I always just rattlecan my engines and always manage to muck up the paintjob getting the engine stabbed. Usually just a bunch of greasy pawprints all over but it's hard to get an engine in with the paint unscathed.

[68F250]

Guys, the "E" means it's an engine part.

Even though the "O" means Fairlane, it was also used on all the compact and intermediate cars.

Don't try to remove that plug, you might break the intake before it comes out.

I don't recall any cast iron high performance intakes for the smallblock.

[dotcentral]

I don't recall any cast iron high performance intakes for the smallblock.

Were the "K" codes intakes aluminum ?

I don't plan on hot rodding this, just was a good deal (I think) from a friend on the intake and a vacuum secondary holley.