What auto trans in 1968?

[marvin2]

I just bought a 68 F100. It has the 240 inline six and seems to be all original except its missing the transmission. What transmission would it have come with from the factory...FMX, C4, C6?

[marvin2]

I might have just answered my own question:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/trans ... trucks.htm

According to this chart, it looks like it would have been a C4 (PEA-J1). I am going to start hunting for one. Are there differences between the C4 types that would have been used in the various vehicle...mustangs, E100, etc.? What can I make work for my application?

[ultraranger]

I have a '69 F100 Ranger that currently has the stock 240 inline 6 with the stock C-4.

Personally, I would definitely rule out running an FMX. I have a 4R70W 4-spd. overdrive automatic I pulled from a '98 3.8L Mustang that will take the place of the C-4. It is electronically shifted and requires a stand-alone shift module, but it's a very strong transmission, the shift points and line pressures of the transmission can be programmed and best of all it has an overdrive.

http://www.becontrols.com/aode.htm

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/tr ... ndex.shtml

[Donnie]

Hi, truck C4's had the dipstick going into the pan, cars into the case........either will work
Ultraranger suggested a 4R70W, which is a fine unit, not knowing your finances, this trans & controller will be a bit more costly than a C4
There is also another option I.E., An AOD =automatic overdrive....this unit is also an overdrive trans with a lock up converter, a 4 speed too..
The plus side of this trans in NO ELECTRONICS,, the lock up converter is unique to this trans.......A control cable to the unit & you are hauling the mail......Plus they have been around since 1980 thru 1992.....Plentiful & not expensive
The down side is, they are a little jerky on the shifting, an the cable control is sensitive to adjust.

Just throwing some options on the table

[ultraranger]

True to what Donnie said. The 4R70W isn't the 'cheapest' install compared to a C-4 or even the AOD however, the 4R70W is a far superior transmission to the AOD. In reality, the AODE and 4R70W are refined transmissions that evolved from the old AOD.

The AOD came out in 1980 and was produced through 1993. If you were to run one, do not get one built before 1989, as the prior models had various factory flaws --one major one being lack of lubrication to the tail shaft.

Best models for the 4R70W are the '98-2004 models from 3.8L Mustangs, 5.0L Explorers or trucks with a 4.2L.

4R70W models built for either 4.6L or 5.4L engines will not bolt up to 240, 300, 289, 302, 5.0L, 351W, 5.8L, 351C blocks. Easy way to tell if the 4R70W will work with "Windsor" block patterns is to look where the starter bolts to the bellhousing. If there are just two bolt holes, it will fit a Windsor block pattern. If there are three starter bolt holes, it's for a 4.6L or 5.4L block.

The C-4 has a weak 1st gear ratio of 2.46:1. The AOD has an even weaker 2.40:1 1st gear ratio. The 4R70W has a much
more stout 2.84:1 1st gear.

I'm not certain if your truck has the same rear end ratio as mine but I have stock 3.50 gears. The power multiplication factor of a
vehicle is determined by multiplying the transmissions 1st gear ratio by the rear end ratio. For a vehicle to be a strong
street performer, you need a power multiplication ratio of at least 9:1. Granted, we're talking about a 6 cylinder that's probably
stock but bear with me here.

If you took the C-4's 1st gear and multiplied it by a 3.50:1 rear end ratio, you would have a power multiplication ratio of 8.61:1.
(2.46 x 3.50 = 8.61).

The power multiplication ratio of an AOD with 3.50 rear gears would be 8.40:1. (2.40 x 3.50 = 8.40:1).

The power multiplication ratio of a 4R70W with 3.50 rear gears would be 9.94:1. (2.84 x 3.50 = 9.94:1).

Even if you aren't building a street terror 6 cylinder, it's easy to see that getting closer to the 9:1 power multiplication ratio
would equate to an engine that will accelerate the vehicle quicker and make it struggle less when pulling/towing.

I don't know about your 6 cylinder, but my 240 6 needs all the help it can get --until I can swap the fuel injected 5.0L H.O. engine into the truck.

Additional information from my site that may interest you...

1. http://ultrastang.com/info4.php

2. http://ultrastang.com/info3.php

[marvin2]

I think I would like to keep things simplified and see if I can find a c4 or c6 for a couple hundred bucks.

I haven't found a c4 yet, but I did find a c6. Does anyone have input on how a c6 will do paired with the 240? Also, would I have to modify the trans tunnel for a c6? I think I remember hearing there was a difference in the tunnel hump for c6 equipped trucks...

[ultraranger]

A C-6 is a stronger transmission than the C-4. The C-6 also came with a small-block bell pattern as well as a big-block pattern.

It has the same 2.46:1 1st gear ratio as the C-4. It shouldn't pose any clearance problems with the floor pan/tunnel.

One trade-off of the C-6 vs. the C-4 will be heavier internals for the 6 cylinder to turn. (parasitic drag that will consume more horse power from an already limited 6 cylinder).

[youngone]

Hi With this tranny the 4R70W will it bolt directly on a 300 or a 302? Will the drive shaft have to be modified?

[ultraranger]

Hi With this tranny the 4R70W will it bolt directly on a 300 or a 302? Will the drive shaft have to be modified?

The 4R70W transmissions for the 4.6L & 5.4L engines will not work on a "Windsor" block pattern. 4R70Ws from 3.8L Mustangs, 5.0L Explorers, or 4.2L trucks will bolt up to your engine. Simple way to tell if it will bolt up to a Windsor block pattern is to look where the starter bolts to the bellhousing. If there are just (2) bolt holes, it will work. If there are (3) bolt holes, it will not work.

I haven't gotten to the point of installing the 4R70W in my '69 F100, yet. I still have to go through it and rebuild it first.

Not certain (yet) if the stock length (steel) driveshaft will work. It may work as-is, or it may have to be modified. I plan to have a custom aluminum driveshaft made.

[max03]

hey ultraranger, thats my old truck:} glad to see you still have it and hope its treating you well.

[ultraranger]

hey ultraranger, thats my old truck:} glad to see you still have it and hope its treating you well.

Hey, Dylan?

It's had a few bouts but what 43-year old vehicle wouldn't?

The brakes went completely out 2 days after I had bought it (not saying this is your fault --(it's an old vehicle that was bought on an "as-is" basis) so, I went completely through the brakes; new master cylinder, wheel cylinders all the way around, brake shoes, return springs, brake adjusters, bearings, races, seals, flexible brake hoses, etc. More recently, I added a dual-diaphragm Bendix brake booster that I robbed off a '75 F350 1-ton truck. Still (currently) has drums all the way around, but it stops a whole lot better than it did.

I pulled the rear end completely out from under the truck and broke it down to the bare housing and its individual components, pressure washed, bead blasted the housing, backing plates, drums, primed & repainted them. I had all 4 drums turned, replaced the axle bearings and housing seals/gaskets then put the rear back under the truck and bent a new 3/16" brake line to run across the rear of the housing.

I've replaced the rear glass --that was broken out at the time I bought the truck. Put a new rear view mirror on the windshield and installed a Sony reciever where there was just a hole in the dash when I got the truck.

I replaced the starter, solenoid and coil.

I've been gathering conversion parts, since the time I bought the truck from you back on April, 24th of last year. I have a wiper delay switch from a '78 pickup, an '03 Crown Vic front suspension assembly, a '90 T-Bird IRS rear assembly, a 5.0L H.O. electronic fuel injected engine from a '90 Mustang GT, a 4R70W overdrive transmission, tilt column from a '78 pickup (yes, the 'jump-out-of-park-on-its-own' column is currently still in the truck).

Trucks generally live a lot harder life than a car, but this truck is in really good shape, considering its age, which is why I bought it. I've had several people stop and ask me if I wanted to sell it. I just tell them, "thanks, but no."

I don't plan on slamming it, but it will be lowered. The goal is for it to look something along the lines of these trucks, by the time everything is gone through, swapped over and painted:







Good to hear from you,

Steve

[max03]

Sounds like it's in good hands, sorry about the brakes! I think I owned it a week or so before selling it. I recently purchased a 68 swb 300 to take it's place. It's waiting on floor pans to be welded in, and needs the column rebuilt.

When you go fuel injected will you be keeping the 240? If not I'd like to be first in line cash money


Glad to see you on the site and maybe oneday we can cruise the streets.

[ultraranger]

Sounds like it's in good hands, sorry about the brakes! I think I owned it a week or so before selling it. I recently purchased a 68 swb 300 to take it's place. It's waiting on floor pans to be welded in, and needs the column rebuilt.

When you go fuel injected will you be keeping the 240? If not I'd like to be first in line cash money


Glad to see you on the site and maybe oneday we can cruise the streets.

Failing brakes seems to be pretty common on these old trucks. Shh... Uh, I mean, stuff happens.

Fortunately, this '69 Ranger has no serious rust in it.

I see you must have moved from Pine Bluff to Star City? I graduated from Warren and still have a couple of friends I've known since high school who still live in Warren. One has a '65 swb F100 he's currently building from the frame up (this
was his ride back in high school). My other friend has his blue '65 Mustang that was his high school car. He (Steven
Haynes), owns a muffler shop in Warren. I go over that way from time to time to visit.

I highly doubt I will hang onto the 240 6, once the fuel injected engine takes its place. It's just a matter of I don't know how soon or exactly when this will happen. A lot of things have to take place to swap everything over and I really hate to have the truck down for a long period. --never know when my primary ride or the wife's ride might run into problems then there would be no back-up vehicle to get to work.

When the engine does get pulled and changed over, I'll let you know. Unless your phone number has changed, I do still have it.

[kf7mjf]

Wouldn't the correct transmission be the Ford o matic which was the precursor to the C4?

[max03]

yeah same number, ive been down here around 6 months now. the sheriff's dept had a opening so i figured i would try it out .

i understand about having a back up ride, the cats went out on my 03 z71 and cost $800 to replace..eased it around untill i could change to magnaflows but a pita knowing the main ride has problems, almost like having a sick kid haha.