Factory air
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Factory air
Got a chance to buy a complete air system from a 70 Ranger for my 72...not sure if it works, but everything appears to be in good condition and the Ranger was a low mileage truck. My question is really, what is necessary (and is it possible) to convert the old York compressor and the rest of the system to R-134 refrigerant? I know there's still some of the old Freon around...it's just very expensive. Some of the parts for the old factory system are available from LMC, although I don't see an evaporator, and they are known to leak after awhile. The compressor is available reman and I'm sure making new hoses wouldn't be a problem. I'm just afraid of getting myself in a money pit trying to save a few bucks. Anybody have any experience with this setup? Thanks....
- DCrusher
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Re: Factory air
Well after reading the whole message sorry about spouting off all the below gibberish but ill leave it for other in case they need reference if your going to end up replacing the evaporator and compressor and hoses I would go ahead and invest in a kit before wasting all my time going through all that because your right its sound like the start of a money pit. But evaporator I would just for kickers pressure test and just see if its good or bad that would be one thing on your good list compressor it's a maybe you can put your thumb over it and turn it and see if it draws a vacuum on one side and pressure on the other I mean its a start there really no way of knowing until you get it in the system and charged you can also put 12 volts to it and see if the clutch pulls in and holds. hoses may be cheap if their the clamp type if they're the flare nut type the flare nut type will start getting into bucks because the fitting has to be crimped on.
YES. Usually what I do is take the old compressor and lay it upside down for a couple days and let the old oil run out and then reinstall it After that you can run a cleaning solution through the condenser and evaporator and then blow them out and let them dry for a couple of days change all the O-Rings and you should be good to draw your vacuum and check for leaks If good drop your pag oil in and start filling I've done all mine the only thing I've noticed is the systems that have a big accumulator like the Fords cool much better EXCEPT for those CRAPPY quick disconnect coupling I can't get those things to quit leaking I've even bought special clamps that go over them and keep them from flexing they still leak. But it's better than the Dodge's with that little accumulator. So one thing I would look at is go to a manifold type condenser rather than a cross flow and BIGGER the biggest condenser you can get in the front the old Dodge cools but only if your moving sitting still it SUX.
YES. Usually what I do is take the old compressor and lay it upside down for a couple days and let the old oil run out and then reinstall it After that you can run a cleaning solution through the condenser and evaporator and then blow them out and let them dry for a couple of days change all the O-Rings and you should be good to draw your vacuum and check for leaks If good drop your pag oil in and start filling I've done all mine the only thing I've noticed is the systems that have a big accumulator like the Fords cool much better EXCEPT for those CRAPPY quick disconnect coupling I can't get those things to quit leaking I've even bought special clamps that go over them and keep them from flexing they still leak. But it's better than the Dodge's with that little accumulator. So one thing I would look at is go to a manifold type condenser rather than a cross flow and BIGGER the biggest condenser you can get in the front the old Dodge cools but only if your moving sitting still it SUX.
smilinsam wrote:Got a chance to buy a complete air system from a 70 Ranger for my 72...not sure if it works, but everything appears to be in good condition and the Ranger was a low mileage truck. My question is really, what is necessary (and is it possible) to convert the old York compressor and the rest of the system to R-134 refrigerant? I know there's still some of the old Freon around...it's just very expensive. Some of the parts for the old factory system are available from LMC, although I don't see an evaporator, and they are known to leak after awhile. The compressor is available reman and I'm sure making new hoses wouldn't be a problem. I'm just afraid of getting myself in a money pit trying to save a few bucks. Anybody have any experience with this setup? Thanks....
http://www.hottottyscreations.com
55 F-100
57 Oval VW
68 F-100 3" Dropped Axles & Rear Hanger Flip
88 Dodge Ramcharger
97 F-150 Extended Cab 4" 6" Slammed
55 F-100
57 Oval VW
68 F-100 3" Dropped Axles & Rear Hanger Flip
88 Dodge Ramcharger
97 F-150 Extended Cab 4" 6" Slammed
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- New Member
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Re: Factory air
Hey Crusher! Thanks for the info...nice to hear from a fellow Texan....I'm in San Angelo. Seems like it may be cheaper with less headache to go with a kit, but I'm going to check what you mentioned. Those old York compressors were pretty much bulletproof and they are rebuildable. I had a 66 F-100 that had a factory installed "Rotunda" hang down air and it worked good. Just got done restoring the cab interior of my 72 Camper Special...new paint, seat, carpet, seals etc...I'm doing the restoration a little at the time so I can drive and enjoy. Next is air, so I can drive it through Texas summer in comfort, then maybe a new paint job in the fall...thanks again, good luck with your project!
- fireguywtc
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Re: Factory air
I would advise going with an aftermarket setup also if you are going to spend the money. I have the factory air setup in my 70 converted to r134 and it worked fine. I had a problem with a sticking expansion valve that I am currently replacing. I also installed a larger parallel flow condesner on the front. I don't have a problem with airflow, it would blow cool when sitting still.
Bill
1967 F-250 LWB 2WD 352 V8, 4spd manual, true duals, 122k original miles (currently being restored)
2024 F350 CCSB, darkened bronze
1967 F-250 LWB 2WD 352 V8, 4spd manual, true duals, 122k original miles (currently being restored)
2024 F350 CCSB, darkened bronze
- DCrusher
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Re: Factory air
HOWDY!! To Y'all Wow you got one of those old York Those thing never die I would just pressure check your evap and put it in then I have that old York laying in the back of the shop next to the other 3 motors I pulled the 302 out of mine truck because the PO rebuild the motor but put the old lifters back in I could never get them to pump up rather than mess with that I bought another used 302 and it had that York on it. So I put the sanden compressor that the PO had on it. Those thing were great for making air compressor for a air ride system Ya i need a lot of help with project I have too many and not enough time but I'm steadily knocking out the 68 bump side
smilinsam wrote:Hey Crusher! Thanks for the info...nice to hear from a fellow Texan....I'm in San Angelo. Seems like it may be cheaper with less headache to go with a kit, but I'm going to check what you mentioned. Those old York compressors were pretty much bulletproof and they are rebuildable. I had a 66 F-100 that had a factory installed "Rotunda" hang down air and it worked good. Just got done restoring the cab interior of my 72 Camper Special...new paint, seat, carpet, seals etc...I'm doing the restoration a little at the time so I can drive and enjoy. Next is air, so I can drive it through Texas summer in comfort, then maybe a new paint job in the fall...thanks again, good luck with your project!
http://www.hottottyscreations.com
55 F-100
57 Oval VW
68 F-100 3" Dropped Axles & Rear Hanger Flip
88 Dodge Ramcharger
97 F-150 Extended Cab 4" 6" Slammed
55 F-100
57 Oval VW
68 F-100 3" Dropped Axles & Rear Hanger Flip
88 Dodge Ramcharger
97 F-150 Extended Cab 4" 6" Slammed