Anyone intrested in bump power windows

[phantomtruck68]

I have been reading some of the past threads on PW's for our bumps. I came up with a way using your original regulators, and putting 80's model motors on them. No mod's needed to the door itself. Wiring is very simple also.
Was just wondering if i should do a full how to thread or just a quick thread?
Decided to do a full thread here.

[HIO Silver]

A full how-to would greatly help less experienced gearheads. Please share and pay it forward to the young 'uns.

[phantomtruck68]

Ok I'm going to do a full thread. I'll get started and get some pics uploaded.

[phantomtruck68]

The truck I converted is a '68, but this will work for all '68 through '72 bump sides.
First thing you'll need to do is acquire the needed parts from a donor vehicle. I got mine out of a '86 or '87 F150, (it's been such a long time ago can't remember exact year) but I'm sure any '80's model Ford truck would work.

Be sure to get the wiring harnesses out of the doors along with the buttons, and get the plug's that these harnesses plug into, be sure to leave at least 12" of the wire on the plug going into the cab.

You'll also need some wire of the same gauge as the wire in the harnesses.
Be sure to get the whole regulator assembly out of the doors. You'll need part of the regulator and the motor.

Now lets get started!
Begin by removing your regulators from your door. Once the door panel is removed there are 4 bolts holding the reg in, plus one other bolt that holds the window rail in place, these will all need removed to get reg out of door.

[phantomtruck68]

Now that you have regs out, remove the springs(be careful they are under some good pressure).

Now drill out the three rivets that hold the crank assembly in place.

Remove the gear from reg and discard.

now you'll need to mark the reg to be cut.

You see how the reg kinda dips down then back up where the threaded inserts are? You'll be cutting off right where the dip stops coming back out.


Now you'll need a die grinder or a cut off wheel, a hacksaw can be used but will be difficult to get a straight cut across. I used a 14" chop saw(very dangerous to use one of these as there is no way to clamp reg down, I had to hold by hand).
Once you get it cut it should look like this.

Now you'll need to get the power reg's and remove the motors, be sure to take the gear housing with the motor. Now I did mine a long time ago and didn't take pics as i worked on them! I did remove mine so I can show you what they should look like.
Ok the red arrows is where a cut is. So basically everything above the red arrows is what I cut off of the power reg.

Note that the motor on its original reg will be mounted at 90* and will have to be turned and mounted so it will be mounted above the reg going into your truck. Basically the motor will be straight up and down. Do this by removing the three screws(blue arrows), and rotating motor on the mounting plate. The holes may need oblonged so holes line up. Just be sure the shaft of gear housing is in the bushing when mounted.
Then welded it to the original reg, So it ends up looking like this.


When welding be sure to weld across the width and also down the side of the dip. should look like this.

Now that it's all welded together, you'll need to put the spring back onto the regulator, then install the motor and gear housing onto the regulator with the motor pointing straight up. Now apply 12volt's to the motor to make sure it operates smoothly. Being careful as the arm will move rather quickly. It don't really matter which wire is positive or neg as you just reverse the wires to reverse the motor.
Now if it operates smoothly then install motor and regulator into your door. I did it with the window all the way up. You will have to power the motor momentarily to make the holes line up to their original bolt holes(kind of a pain in the A$$).


Now that the new motor and regulator are installed, it's time to start the wiring.
You'll need 8 wires the same gauge as the wires in original harness, I tried to match the colors as best I could. Each wire will be approximately 6ft. in length or as wide is the cab, one will be about 10ft. long. The 7 shorter wires just go from one door to the other. The longer one will also go to a power source. solder the wires to the harness plugs you cut out of donor truck, making sure to color match each one to the other. On the truck I got mine from the blue wire was the power wire feed which will be the longer wire. I soldered it to the drivers side harness and ran it across to the pass side then out to the engine compartment. I hooked it to a 30amp breaker the to the battery side of the starter relay.

It's one of two wire's you'll need to hook to truck. One is power, the other is a ground, which hooks to one of the regulator mounting bolts inside drivers door. Once all the wires are soldered i wire loomed them together and secured them under the dash. I ran the harness plugs through the factory rubber plug to the area where the door hinges are.
Now drilling the door for the harness. I used a 3/4" drill bit and drilled the door about 2" from inside of door, and level with the big hole in cab.

I wire loomed the wires going from cab to door.
Now with all the wires ran and hooked up, you'll need to find a place for your switches. I mounted mine in the door just above the regulator, but in front of the window track.

I welded patch panels over the original window crank holes(was going to paint door panels but decided to just cover in vinyl).

It'll take some figuring to be sure you get the hole in the proper spot so as not to inter fear with reg's range of motion. I'll take some measurements off of mine and post later. I did cut the doors before i did the panel. That way I had a little leway for adjustments. This is how mine looks when completed.

Now give them a try! Hope you enjoy your power windows as much as I do .
How do you like my home made arm rest? Made them out of pieces of red wood 4x4's. Then painted them to match my truck.



If anyone has any trouble or needs help pm me and i'll help you as much as i can.

[flyboy2610]

That looks good! Thanks!

[stephen44]

watching with interest - are you saying by your spec - that this does not work for 1967s?

[phantomtruck68]

watching with interest - are you saying by your spec - that this does not work for 1967s?

I wasn't sure if it would work on '67's due to different door latch, however I did some checking and this should work on them too.

[My427stang]

Can you post a picture of how you run wires into the cab from the door?

I have never found a way that I think is really pretty, and I like wiring, the way the door pulls away from the cab when open doesn't lend itself to a nice grommet.

For speaker wires I end up wire tying them to the arm of the hinge itself and it works OK, but always looking for good ideas

[phantomtruck68]

Can you post a picture of how you run wires into the cab from the door?

I have never found a way that I think is really pretty, and I like wiring, the way the door pulls away from the cab when open doesn't lend itself to a nice grommet.

For speaker wires I end up wire tying them to the arm of the hinge itself and it works OK, but always looking for good ideas

Yeah i'll post a little later today how i did the wiring and switches. I'll have some pics also. Sorry aint able to finish thread all in one shot, I will finish it today though.

[Broncobilly66]

Very cool. I'm gonna collect the parts to do this!

[crazyhorse]

Mr Phantom, thank you for taking your time to post this great information.
I'm saving the info to use later, (hopefully).

[red403]

The switches you used are out of a 1987-1991 ford truck.

I made the power windows for my truck the same way as you but I used the motors from a 1977 mercury grand marquis(motor doner car) I have tried them in the doors and they work but I don't have them installed as I need to do body work before I get to that point. I went with the ford van power window switches instead of the ford truck as I wanted them to stick out a little more so they would cover the hole where the original crank was. I also figured power door locks would be a great idea so I have them ready to go in also and if I have power door locks I might as well have the keypad on the drivers door so that is ready to go in. Now if I just had the rest of the truck done:(

[flyboy2610]

That looks good, but if I may I would add two things:
(1) Do not use the regulator bolt for a ground. Extend the ground wire back to
the cab and use a good chassis ground. Grease, etc. on the door hinges doesn't
make for a really reliable ground.
(2) You have your power for the window motors going through the switches. This
can really shorten the life of the switches. It would probably be better to use
relays for powering the window motors. (For those who don't know, a relay is
just an electrically operated switch. Light duty current goes to the relay,
which then switches the heavy duty load through the relay and to the object
being powered.) Here's a diagram that may help explain it:
(From http://www.autorestomod.com/)


I like your idea for the motors. If I didn't already have a power window kit for Frodo, I'd definitely use your idea!

[phantomtruck68]

Flyboy your right about the relays. Except the factory switches i used would not work with relays, they reverse polarity going to motor. Now if I used aftermarket switches yes relays are the way to go. The motors have built in circuit breakers to help protect the system. The ground i believe should be to both the door and cab, since the motors are in the door and would have to try and ground through the hinges anyways. I will be adding a ground to the cab. Thanks for the suggestion