clutch replacement on 69 F-250

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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robbkramer
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clutch replacement on 69 F-250

Post by robbkramer »

Does anyone have a page from the shop manual on replacing the clutch for a 1969 F-250 4spd. 2WD? Maybe it's easy enough that I don't need the manual, not sure. Looks like I don't have to drop or move the tranny back to get to it all. I do need the torque settings for the clutch plate, though. My PDF manuals won't open any longer (eBay rip-off, 'nuther story).

Thanks all!
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fmartin_gila1
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Re: clutch replacement on 69 F-250

Post by fmartin_gila1 »

1. Remove shift lever.
2. Remove large trans cover from floorboards.
3. Remove driveshaft & unbolt trans from bellhousing, move it back or totally remove it.
4. Unbolt pressure plate and remove PP & Disk.
5. Pull pilot bearing.
6. Reassemble using new or rebuilt parts.

Always replace pilot and throwout bearings when in there, rather than having to do it again.

Fred
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robbkramer
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Re: clutch replacement on 69 F-250

Post by robbkramer »

Fred, thanks! Do you know the torque settings for the pressure plate and is there a specific tightening pattern? The only clutch I've ever replaced was an old 86 BMW e30 and it was fussy with tightening patterns and torque settings, never mind REALLY, REALLY, REALLY hard to get to.

Thanks for the step-by-step; that helps.

robb
fmartin_gila1
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Re: clutch replacement on 69 F-250

Post by fmartin_gila1 »

I think the torque should be about 25 to 30 for the PP to Flywheel bolts. They are special in that they are hardened and have a small shoulder on them to line up the PP properly. Tighten in a criss-cross manner and draw down gradually to final torque so as to avoid warping the PP. Make sure you have the Disk centered (preferably using an alignment tool or old trans input shaft) while tightening the PP Bolts. Be careful, that trans is a heavy sucker and it is very easy to mess up the clutch center while stabbing the trans back in through the T.O. Bearing, Disk, and Pilot Bearing. Being an old Fleet Mechanic for many years, I use some "line-up" studs for these type jobs. They are just longer bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut in them for removal after the trans is stabbed. Have it in 4th gear when stabbing it, that way you can line up the splines by turning the rear flange by hand.

Fred
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