Tool List For Axle Seal Replacement

[Subzero]

I'm going to replace my leaking axle seal. I already replaced the worn out bearing but I did not put a new seal in after changing it out. It began to leak a month later and has leaked for the past 6 months. I'm tired of cleaning my brake every couple weeks and topping off my axle grease so it's time to change it. I've replaced front axle seals on a old Jeep Wagoneer and a 90s F150, it can't be much different right? What tools do I need to remove and replace the seal on my 9 in rear axle? I will be buying Mac, Snap On, Marco, ect tools if I can finf them.
Thanks

[ultraranger]

I have a slider hammer set similar to the one pictured in the following link. Among other uses, it will pull seals and remove stubborn axles.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreilly ... &ppt=C0067

For intalling seals, I have a bearing race/seal intaller set identical to the one in this following link.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HDE43 ... mdp_mobile

There are other, cheaper methods of removing/installing seals but using tools/methods that aren't designed specifically for the task have great potential to do damage to other components. One of the main things to be careful of is to not gouge the axle housing bore were the axle seal seats. Gouging the bore will allow gear oil to leak around the metal perimeter of the seal.

When you go to reinstall the axle, don't let the weight of the axle drag across the new seal. Letting the axle drag on the seal can cause tears or knicks in the rubber seal that will make it leak. --this is another advantage to having a slide hammer set with the axle flange attachment. With the slide hammer attached to the axle, it's much easier to balance and hold the axle up as it's being put back into the housing.

[Subzero]

Ok thank you. I've never used a slide hammer before so now is a good time to start. Here's two I found on eBay. Would either one work and be a good buy?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/131126401515?nav=SEARCH
http://m.ebay.com/itm/321336499179?nav=SEARCH

The second one doesn't have the original hammer so thats a let down but the new one looks more heavy duty.
Here's a seal remover tool I found
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171251744154

Would that be a good one to have?


I couldn't find any bearing installer sets on eBay I liked so how about this Mac set?
It's not too much more than the one you have listed. This is the exact set I used on the Jeep on Ford.
http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/prod ... r-set.aspx

Also whats a good hammer to use on the bearing installer plates? I can't remember what I used, it was a long time ago.

On a side not there is a fully rebuilt rear axle with 3.50 gears on craigslist near me for $300. All new bearings, brakes, and paint. I've struggled with my axle since I bought the truck. Counting tools I need to buy, it's not much cheaper to only replace the seal. Would buying an all new axle be a good way to go?

[sargentrs]

Most of your auto parts stores will let you borrow those if you leave a deposit. That's what I did. Be sure and clean the seal surface with a Scotchbrite pad and degreaser before putting the new seal in. I also spread a thin coat of black RTV around the outer surface of the seal before installing. Run the Scotchbrite around the axle's seal surface too and get it nice and clean. Ditto on supporting the weight of the axle. You want it to slide through the seal, not rake across the bottom.

[sargentrs]

If you really want to buy a slide hammer set, I'd go with that Mac one. It looks like it's missing the 3 long fingers but it has the short one's shown in the Snap On. Plus, it has the harmonic and steering wheel puller attachments. The seal installer set looks just like the one I borrowed from O'Reillys when I did mine. Has everything you need. That rear end would be the way to go, if the gear set was set up correctly. 3.50 gears a good all purpose ratio. I'd ask to see receipts though to make sure it really was rebuilt.

[Subzero]

I think my truck has 3.25 gears in it now. Would I notice any difference if I changed? I do take my truck off road, every few months or so,in order to go riding my dirt bike. Pretty much a badly maintained up dirt road, sand field, and a few large mud/water places needing to be crossed. As for the puller I might wait a few days and see if anything comes up. I think I should buy one, one day I plan to get a new job and do this kind of work professionally. So it will get good use. I will remember that for other tools, thanks.

The axle is from a 1967 F100.

[ultraranger]

If I remember correctly, the '67 F100 9" rear end is about 1/2" narrower than the '68-'72 9" rear end and the rear brakes have the same narrower 1-3/4" brake shoes as the '66-earlier F-100s.

There will be a noticeable difference in going from a 3.25 ratio to a lower 3.50 ratio. It will also throw your speedometer reading off if you don't change out the driven gear on the end of the speedometer cable to compensate for the rear end ratio change.

http://ultrastang.com/info3.php

If you look on the rear, inside edge of the door, there will be a tag. Under the axle heading there will be a code. The most common code for an F-100 3.25:1 9" rear end ratio (with single track differential) is "17". For a 3.50:1 ratio, the most common code is "08". A 3.70:1 ratio would be "09".

Without actually seeing the rear end that's for sale, it's hard to say if it's a good buy. If you inquire about it, I would ask if the differential/ring and pinion bearings had also been replaced. If ALL the bearings --differential/pinion, axle bearings, gaskets, seals and brake hardware has been gone through, that would be at least $250.00+ worth of parts. Depending on who did the work, it could have been someone who was meticulous and did things right or, could have been done by a hack with cheap parts who shortcut things just to try and turn a quick buck.

As Randy stated, if you check into the rear end, ask for all receipts and inquire who rebuilt the rear end. Otherwise, it may be simpler to just pull a 3.50 3rd member from a wrecking yard donor truck to swap out with the 3.25 3rd member.

[Subzero]

Yes, I have the 17 on my code. Sounds like the 67' axle would be more trouble than it's worth for my particular truck. Here's the actual listing for it- http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/4307677454.html . My axle could use a good coat of paint and the gears are worn. Only one bearing is replaced, I don't want to upset the other side as I've had problems with leaks on the right side for a year. Now moving forward with the seal replacement. Buying a new seal, silicon and tools.

[ultraranger]

This is the slide hammer set and bearing race/seal driver set I have.





2 days after I bought my truck (April, 2011), the brakes went out on it --blown right rear wheel cylinder and the manual brake MC was leaking down the firewall inside the cab. I figured while I was replacing all the wheels cylinders, brake hoses, brake shoes/hardware, seals, bearings, etc., might as well snatch the rear end out from under the truck and clean it up. I disassembled it, pressure washed it inside and out, bead blasted the housing, primed and painted it.



I had to make a new 3/16" hard brake line across the rear end. The old hard line had a lot of surface pitting on it (weak spots).

[Subzero]

That looks great, your truck is very rust free too. The listing is gone now, I'm going to hit the junkyard this week for my Powerstroke ( I want a spare tire rim that matches my others) and I'll check for an axle too if I see a bumpside. My brakes went out too, you helped me with my master cylinder replacement awhile back. I had half of my hard lines changed out in the back but as for everything else it is stock/original. I couldn't do a full dissamble on my truck because I need to drive it as a DD when it's very cold ( my diesel doesn't like the cold or have working heat ). Last time I removed the axle i didn't need a puller, it just came out easily. I had a machine shop put the new bearing on and slid it back in. I did have a very good drive today as the weather was nice in my old truck. For some reason no other vehicle I've driven has as good of fresh air flow.

Brand new Mac puller here http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Prod ... fault.aspx . This is the one I'm getting, it's not much more and is brand new.