without specialized tool, how to assemble bearing for T18

[teddyyyy]

I'm trying to rebuild the T18 transmission on my 1972 F250 2wd.

I watched some youtube videos on T18, unfortunately they do not really show clearly the process to remove/assemble the input/output shaft bearings, in fact they even do not show whether the bearings are forcefully fit onto the shafts, and somehow give me an impression that they just easily slide onto the shafts, then fixed in place by a snap ring.

first of my questions: are the input/output bearings fit onto the shafts by a tight fit ? or are they fit onto the case walls by tight fit? or both?

secondly, and more importantly, what alternative tools can I use to pull and re-assemble the bearings? the factory-required special tool t75l-7025B alone costs 100 bucks, the whole set probably costs 500$, it's definitely not worth investing into for a DIY guy.

for disassembly, I see a widely cited method to use bearing pullers, for example here http://www.f150online.com/forums/transm ... tools.html and this youtube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wzcn3Cr ... redirect=1 the only customization you need to do is to prolong the puller arms since the input shaft is very long. my question here is, the puller claws seem to grab onto a ledge on the outside ring of the bearing in the above video, is that edge part of the bearing? I thought bearing outside are flat, or is it the "locker ring"? additionally, when we pull on the outside ring, the outside ring of the bearing is separated from the case, but the inside ring of the bearing is still tightly fit onto the shaft, so the pulling process brings the shaft out too? or the pulling process pulls the inner ring of the bearing off from the shaft too? then what pulls the inner bearing are the bearing balls inside the bearing grooves, are they strong enough to transport that force?


for assembly,
I saw a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piCMtiE2XEE that shows a very clear and complete process for the T5, I guess that could be of some reference too. in this video, the author pressed the bearing on a press, together with an extender bar so that the press reaches into the case. in my scenario, the T18 is probably too heavy to fit onto a press, though I could purchase the 87$ 6ton press or 120$ 12ton press from Harbor Freight. ------ on the other hand, I don't understand how the factory tool t75l-7025b (same tool used for disassembly) works: how does the tool (which is basically a tube) grab onto the case? my understanding is that the assembly process tries to press the bearing onto the case, so I guess the tool has to somehow grab the case on one end, and press the bearing in. but where on the case does it grab onto ?

Thanks a lot
Yang

[eggman918]

I can't speak to the T-18,but "normally" a bearing will be a light press fit on the shaft ~.0003" and the OD will be a "size on size" slip fit so it should tap on "easily" just dont let it get cocked to one side.When I was doing my Dana 24 T case I had one that was a pain in the A$$ and ended up using temperature differential to get the job done at .0003" interference putting the shaft in the freezer for an hour or so will make it possible to tap the bearing on if you work quickly a heat gun on the bearing works as well or a combination of both getting the bearing up to 200*/250* is all it takes.If you use temperature have everything laid out and ready once you put the two together you dont have any time to spare so a second set of hands are useful

[averagef250]

Yes. they are a press fit.

If you don't have a clamshell puller you can cut the input bearing off with a torch. Every other bearing should come off with a healthy puller.

Steve's right, although many fits are heavier than .0005" in transmissions, especially when aftermarket parts get involved.

I did transmissions for a few years and there's no universal answer.

I have well over $10K in pullers through 36" 3 jaw and 30 ton and removing the rear axle from a 67 chevy 3/4 ton 2wd was an issue last weekend. The nuts zipped right off the u-bolts, but the u-bolts wouldn't budge from the trailing arms. I fabbed up a puller using 2 15 ton jacks, an I-beam and lots of rem steel and with two of us on a 4' handle by god we ripped the rear axle out and saved the U-bolts for re-use on the new Dana 70.

For removing parts the welder and torch, properly applied, are your friend.