1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
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- cancow
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- Location: Illinois
1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
I know the 390 is not the original engine... Will a new bell housing be needed? Other parts?
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Re: 1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
Yes.
The flywheel and clutch assembly, and motor mounts.
maybe the radiator .
why do you want to swap engines.?
The flywheel and clutch assembly, and motor mounts.
maybe the radiator .
why do you want to swap engines.?
- cancow
- New Member
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 10:15 am
- Location: Illinois
Re: 1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
I am just not a big fan of the FE engines. From my experience they leak oil like they have no gaskets and I have never been able to get one to run as well as I would like. I also think the 300 I6 is of the best engines of the era, and love the simplicity. What year clutch assemblies would work?
cep62 wrote:Yes.
The flywheel and clutch assembly, and motor mounts.
maybe the radiator .
why do you want to swap engines.?
- farmallmta
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- Joined: Sat Nov 16, 2013 2:00 pm
Re: 1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
Best thing to do is to get all the I6 motor mounts, linkage, bellhousing, transmission from a donor truck.
The FE is an underappreciated Ford motor, and is loudly scorned by the bowtie heathens, just because they're obnoxious scum.
The FE should be built by a Ford-oriented machinist, not a bowtie-loving mouthbreather. In my experience, bowtie knuckleheads refuse to do an FE the proper way, because they don't know and don't care. The FE has its quirks that defy the bowtie bums.
An example: When the FE rebuild is finished, install a dummy distributor and fill the oilpan to the proper level and turn it upside down on the stand. If oil leaks out around distributor, the manifold isn't located correctly, possibly by improper machining that doesn't match the machining on the heads. There are numerous other tricks that make the FE rebuild good vs. bad.
Once the FE is rebuilt by a knowledgeable and caring machinist and run in correctly, it leaks no oil, is a strong and economical runner, and it's one of the finest motors ever produced by Ford. Done incorrectly, it's terrible in all respects. Unfortunately, many machine shops do them incorrectly and then just snarl, "fncking Fords! Useless boat anchors!"
The FE is an underappreciated Ford motor, and is loudly scorned by the bowtie heathens, just because they're obnoxious scum.
The FE should be built by a Ford-oriented machinist, not a bowtie-loving mouthbreather. In my experience, bowtie knuckleheads refuse to do an FE the proper way, because they don't know and don't care. The FE has its quirks that defy the bowtie bums.
An example: When the FE rebuild is finished, install a dummy distributor and fill the oilpan to the proper level and turn it upside down on the stand. If oil leaks out around distributor, the manifold isn't located correctly, possibly by improper machining that doesn't match the machining on the heads. There are numerous other tricks that make the FE rebuild good vs. bad.
Once the FE is rebuilt by a knowledgeable and caring machinist and run in correctly, it leaks no oil, is a strong and economical runner, and it's one of the finest motors ever produced by Ford. Done incorrectly, it's terrible in all respects. Unfortunately, many machine shops do them incorrectly and then just snarl, "fncking Fords! Useless boat anchors!"
- two-bit
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Re: 1967 F250 390 4x4 4spd to 300 I6 swap?
Lets see....
You already have FE engine perches, so no need to change those. I-6 and FE use the same perch.
Bell housing , flywheel, clutch disc,pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
Also the engine side mount for the Z-bar.
Next will be throttle linkage. I-6 uses way different linkage than the FE. If you can find it, scab the throttle linkage from a 73-79 truck. It uses a cable extension with brackets that i believe you should be able to connect to your current throttle pedal.
Radiator is up to you. I-6 rad is narrower and you will probably need to make mounting brackets for it to bolt it up to your V-8 core support.
Or go with the v-8 radiator and hook up your hoses however you need to. Not sure if inlet/outlet is in the right place between v-8 and I-6 radiators.
Exhaust, very different. Down pipe vs. Y-pipe.
Power steering....you might need longer hoses???? Will need mount for pump that matches I-6. (if you have it)
Fuel line....route accordingly. Engine electrical i am guessing is pretty much plug-n-play, but i could be wrong.
Good luck with it.
Two-bit
You already have FE engine perches, so no need to change those. I-6 and FE use the same perch.
Bell housing , flywheel, clutch disc,pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
Also the engine side mount for the Z-bar.
Next will be throttle linkage. I-6 uses way different linkage than the FE. If you can find it, scab the throttle linkage from a 73-79 truck. It uses a cable extension with brackets that i believe you should be able to connect to your current throttle pedal.
Radiator is up to you. I-6 rad is narrower and you will probably need to make mounting brackets for it to bolt it up to your V-8 core support.
Or go with the v-8 radiator and hook up your hoses however you need to. Not sure if inlet/outlet is in the right place between v-8 and I-6 radiators.
Exhaust, very different. Down pipe vs. Y-pipe.
Power steering....you might need longer hoses???? Will need mount for pump that matches I-6. (if you have it)
Fuel line....route accordingly. Engine electrical i am guessing is pretty much plug-n-play, but i could be wrong.
Good luck with it.
Two-bit
Living life full throttle on the North Coast of America!!!
72' F-350, DRW, 360, NP435, Dana 70, 159" WB, P.S., P.B., 12' flatbed, 10,000 GVW.
72' F-350, DRW, 360, NP435, Dana 70, 159" WB, P.S., P.B., 12' flatbed, 10,000 GVW.